Please help me diagnose this! Pink bacteria

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ghoover522 said:
FC level is back up to 21ppm. I have guests that need to use the pool tomorrow at 3pm so I need to wrap up this SLAM process by then. Hoping tonight FCLT shows lower Chlorine loss.

Latest test:
Free Chlorine: 21ppm
Chloramines: 1pmm
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I'm sorry, but just going to be blunt here. If you're quoting 'all sources', it tells me you're likely trying to pick and choose the information you'd agree to follow. That's fine, but the TFP system works, just not in conjunction with other 'sources'. If you're bent on stopping the slam for guests, that's ok, it's your pool - do whatever makes you happy. Your issue could magically disappear on it's own, but most likely won't. Is the TFP way the only way, no, of course not. I wish you the best of luck and hope you don't quit on it before the issue is corrected - that's a lot of chlorine to start over from scratch.
 
SoDel said:
More of my 2c lol. In one sense, the overnight chlorine loss is good, in the sense of another data point.

I pose it as a question — if the SLAM level is maintained as prescribed, isn’t there an amount of time where all that chlorine has to eventually kill and oxidize even stuff that’s “hiding” from overall circulation? Like, if the chlorine is being used, that has to mean it is in some sense getting to the hidden places to be used and if the pool owner can’t get to those places to scrub, the chlorine just needs more contact time?

If the issue is oxidize hidden organics, would a quality enzyme (like Orenda CV-600) possibly help? I know that goes against the grain but chlorine isn’t great (good not great) at oxidizing formerly living organics so maybe time for heavier oxidation artillery? As a one-off for a particular pool with seems to be something has to be hiding somewhere, is it worth a try? (and I’m ok if the tomatoes have to be thrown at me for suggesting it lol — just an idea).
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I didn't see anyone address this so:

It's not a set amount of time as it depends on every pool. If algae is hiding somewhere, and not getting killed, it's going to keep multiplying and the extra stuff it's spitting out is what's using up the FC. That could continue forever if you don't get in there and clean it out.

Algae needs sun to grow, so it won't be able to grow in areas that get no sun, like the inside of pipes. Areas that get indirect light can still grow algae, like the inside of ladders, weir doors, skimmer throats, pool light niches, etc. and so you have to focus on those.

Oxidation happens from sunlight so need to add another product to the mix. Chlorine, scrubbing, and investigatory work is what will kill the hidden algae.
 
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All good updates.

Just so you are sure, the criteria to end the SLAM is....

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.

Right now, you are not there, and here is for hoping your OCLT reveals you are ion the morning, but unfortunately, guests coming over is not one of the criteria to end the SLAM early. Understandable why you want to pause it, but just know, if you haven't cleared those criteria, you likely will have to either start over, or continue after.
 
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Just gonna leave this right here & say I have had many guests in my pool (children & adults) when I was well above target 🎯 range or near Slam level fc for my cya. Never once had a complaint. I regularly run 8- 10ppm fc on a daily basis & the main comments I receive from children are on the fact the water doesn’t burn their eyes like most pools. The adults mostly comment on how good the water feels & looks.
I obviously keep my ph in check as well. Mid 7’s.
If u want to let fc fall a little for the party that’s understandable. It will fall anyway due to the bather load & the remaining organics that are currently consuming your fc. Just keep a check on it so fc never broaches minimum for your cya otherwise you will be inviting person to person transmission of pathogens 🦠 to your party. Ear infections & stomach bugs are not great party favors. Under sanitized water is how you got in this predicament. I would personally rather swim @ slam level fc than in an under sanitized pool. Please don’t be afraid of adequate, sanitary chlorine levels.

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Thanks for the update on this. Bad news is that the OCLT is not passing.

9pm
Free chlorine 31ppm
Chloramines 1ppm

8/12/22
6am
Free chlorine 18ppm
Chloramines.0.5ppm


I will have to let the Chlorine come down. My issue is that the water is very acidic right now (around 6.9) so I am wondering if that will cause discomfort swimming.
 
It can, and you'll need the FC to be under 10 if you're using the Taylor drops / color matching pH test to get an accurate reading. 6.9 isn't super acidic but you want your pH up in the 7's. Even 7.0 would be acceptable depending on your CSI, and since you have vinyl low CSI isn't as much of a concern. What's your TA right now? Some aeration would bring that back up to 7.0 pretty quick.

Something is definitely eating up the chlorine. The pool looks clear? I'd be scrubbing every inch of it you can while the chlorine is raised, including around ladders (or inside them with a flexible brush), light niches, trim around steps/etc., skimmer throat and weir door/weir door foam, etc.
 
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IceShadow said:
It can, and you'll need the pH to be under 10 if you're using the Taylor drops / color matching pH test to get an accurate reading
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I think you meant to say, the chlorine will need to be under 10 in order to get an accurate PH reading. When the chorine levels are above 10, the color matching PH test becomes unreliable.

@IceShadow is right about the PH number, if the test was accurate, and you got 6.9, you are not that far off to get back to mid 7s
 
I promise everyone here at TFP that every square inch of the pool has been cleaned Jetted out the bottom jet cover, light took apart, ladder is out, skimmer float is cleaned, skimmer doors, everything. There is no way to explain this chlorine consumption.......
 

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ghoover522 said:
Thanks for the update on this. Bad news is that the OCLT is not passing.

9pm
Free chlorine 31ppm
Chloramines 1ppm

8/12/22
6am
Free chlorine 18ppm
Chloramines.0.5ppm


I will have to let the Chlorine come down. My issue is that the water is very acidic right now (around 6.9) so I am wondering if that will cause discomfort swimming.
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Why did u go so high with fc?
31 ppm is well over slam level for your cya & risks damage to your liner, equipment, swimmers.
Going higher than slam level won’t make this go any faster, it will just waste liquid chlorine because it burns off exponentially faster at really high levels.
As mentioned above the ph test is inaccurate at fc levels over 10ppm so until it comes down & u can test it accurately u can point your jets up to disturb the water & raise ph a little via aeration.
If your ta is above 50 -60 that should be sufficient.
Are u using PoolMath ?
If so u can turn on sharing in the settings & we can see your logs which is quite helpful.
 
ghoover522 said:
I promise everyone here at TFP that every square inch of the pool has been cleaned Jetted out the bottom jet cover, light took apart, ladder is out, skimmer float is cleaned, skimmer doors, everything. There is no way to explain this chlorine consumption.......
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With no sun on the pool, 13ppm is an extremely large FC drop. The pool looks crystal clear, right?

Going back to Donldson's question in post 56 - have you ever added any algaecide with "Yellow" in the name?
 
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ghoover522 said:
I have only ever added the following products:

Super blue clarifier
Sam's Club alagecide
Metal magic 1 qt
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The linear quat algaecide is not recommended as it isn’t necessary if you maintain fc levels above minimum for your cya.
Algaecides are at best a preventative & won’t really overcome an algae problem. They offer mild suppression. Chlorine is needed for eradication.
The clarifier is quite unnecessary because you have a DE filter which has the ability to clear even the finest particles given enough time. Clarifiers are like glue & can gum up your filter as well.
Those two particular products don’t contain immediately harmful things like copper or bromine as far as the msds shows, although they have “inert” & “proprietary” ingredients which are not listed which is another reason not to use them.
The issue with even the most seemingly innocuous clarifiers & algaecides is that they can mask the problem (algae) - a bandaid of sorts, allowing u to think things are fine @ low fc levels because the pool is relatively clear when in fact the issue will return with a vengeance once they are no longer masked.
The real solution is the SLAM Process.

The metal magic could have created some chlorine demand initially like most sequestrants (which is likely been overcome by now) what remains now is the new demand from the organics that proliferated whilst fc was too low.

In synopsis- clarifiers & algaecides don’t eliminate algae, they hide it’s effects & make your water appear “clear” temporarily, basically kicking the can down the road. For now, continue with the SLAM, it may be wise when your fc drops below 10ppm to check ph & cya. Report back on your results
Fc
Cc
Ph
Cya

In the future if u find the need for a sequestrant you should use polyquat 60 algaecide (the only one recommended here) before allowing your fc levels to fall as necessary & also be certain you don’t have an algae problem before beginning the process by doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
This is the best way to ensure u don’t create another problem (algae) by trying to solve the 1st issue (metals).
 
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Was the sun up before 9am? You might be passing the OCLT, but you have to check before sunup or you won't know if the sun is the cause for the drop. :)
 
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Indirect UV can still cause chlorine loss, especially at elevated levels like you're reaching now. Sounds like a good plan to check early. :) How is the pool looking? Is it crystal clear still? Any more sign of strange pink stuff?
 

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