I think I tested too close to slamming last night, and forgot to remove floating tablet dispenser. I went from 28 ppm last night to 32 ppm this morning. Pool is slowly getting lighter turquoise. I can almost see the bottom of the deepens. I’ll try the OCLT again tonight.Wow, FC is 25...
Let's not start a SLAM just yet.
OK, tonight you will do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
Short explanation - Two things consume chlorine. UV rays of the sun and organics like algae.
First, make sure the salt water chlorine generator is turned off. We don't want it producing chlorine.
Tonight after the sun goes down test your chlorine. Write down what it is
Tomorrow morning before the sun is on your pool test the chlorine again. If the "loss" of chlorine overnight is 1ppm or less then you don't have an issue with organics like algae. At that point we can start dealing with metals. If it is more than 1 we know it's organics and we can then start the SLAM
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.www.troublefreepool.com
New to salt generator
- Thread starter Smith2646
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Those tabs are adding cya - as the cya level increases so does necessary fc level.
FC/CYA Levels
Remove the tabs.
They can also add copper to your water if they say “xtra blu” or 4 in 1 or are anything but 100% trichlor. High copper levels can turn things green like hair, fingernails, & even the water.
Yup, you have to remove all sources of chlorine to test how much you loose overnight.
Should I keep filter running day and night? Should I add another gallon of pool chlorine today or wait until I do the oclt?
As high as your chlorine is I'd skip adding a gallon today. No tabs, no SWCG and test after sunset to see your starting point. Test before the sun is up to see the end number.
More and more it's looking like @Mdragger88 is right and a SLAM is in order, not metals - but let's prove it.
Last night Cl was 30.5. It rained a bit last night and this morning Cl is 27.5. CYA went from about 100 to 80. Pool is a light turquoise now and I can see the Polaris in the deep end but water is not clear.
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- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Be sure u are doing the cya test outdoors (a bright sunny day is best)
With your back to the sun & the tube waist high when viewing.
Squirt the solution to a mark, glance, if u can still see the dot go to the next mark, then glance etc. don’t stare.
You can pour the solution back into the squirty bottle, shake, & perform the test again as many times as u need to figure out the average. I do it about 3 times & then i just squirt while looking & see where it stops for confirmation.
There are no inbetweens when reading the test- anywhere between 70 & 80 counts as 80. Always round up.
If it reads 90 or above u will need to do the diluted test, if not u can still do it to confirm your level. Aka - if the diluted test shows 40 then your cya is 80.
Step 8
www.troublefreepool.com
With your back to the sun & the tube waist high when viewing.
Squirt the solution to a mark, glance, if u can still see the dot go to the next mark, then glance etc. don’t stare.
You can pour the solution back into the squirty bottle, shake, & perform the test again as many times as u need to figure out the average. I do it about 3 times & then i just squirt while looking & see where it stops for confirmation.
There are no inbetweens when reading the test- anywhere between 70 & 80 counts as 80. Always round up.
If it reads 90 or above u will need to do the diluted test, if not u can still do it to confirm your level. Aka - if the diluted test shows 40 then your cya is 80.
Step 8
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com
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It would be impossible for CYA to go from 100 to 80 without an exchange of 20% of the pool water. More likely variances n the testing (skill, lighting ect.). Of the tests it's the one that takes some practice to master.
So, we have proven that there are organics in the water, so it's time to SLAM.
Not, sure if you have read the article yet, but here it is again.
www.troublefreepool.com
Leave the salt water generator off, no solid chlorine products and turn the pump back on. Your goal is to keep the FC at 24 or slightly above that (not massively) all the time. Test the FC every couple of hours (or as often as you can) and if below 24, add to bring it back u p. With your liquid additions you have been basically doing this most of the time. Algae attached ot pool surfaces can develop a biofilm that protects it from the chlorine, so brushing once a day breaks this up.
So, we have proven that there are organics in the water, so it's time to SLAM.
Not, sure if you have read the article yet, but here it is again.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
Leave the salt water generator off, no solid chlorine products and turn the pump back on. Your goal is to keep the FC at 24 or slightly above that (not massively) all the time. Test the FC every couple of hours (or as often as you can) and if below 24, add to bring it back u p. With your liquid additions you have been basically doing this most of the time. Algae attached ot pool surfaces can develop a biofilm that protects it from the chlorine, so brushing once a day breaks this up.
Thanks. I’ll keep the pump running and check Cl every few hours. Electric company is going to live me this month.It would be impossible for CYA to go from 100 to 80 without an exchange of 20% of the pool water. More likely variances n the testing (skill, lighting ect.). Of the tests it's the one that takes some practice to master.
So, we have proven that there are organics in the water, so it's time to SLAM.
Not, sure if you have read the article yet, but here it is again.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
Leave the salt water generator off, no solid chlorine products and turn the pump back on. Your goal is to keep the FC at 24 or slightly above that (not massively) all the time. Test the FC every couple of hours (or as often as you can) and if below 24, add to bring it back u p. With your liquid additions you have been basically doing this most of the time. Algae attached ot pool surfaces can develop a biofilm that protects it from the chlorine, so brushing once a day breaks this up.
Will the cloudiness go away on it’s own? I miss my crystal clear pool water.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you follow the SLAM to the T, then yes, the end result will be crystal clear water. It will take time to filter out all the detritus (and probably some vacuuming too).
Yes, but this leads to the next question. What type of filter do you have? DE, Sand or cartridge? They all clear at different rates as all the algae is killed and filtered out.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
For a successful SLAM Process you need to continue until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear. (Crystal Clear)
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear. (Crystal Clear)
My favorite. Does it have a working pressure gauge?
If it has a gauge, don't backwash until the pressure rises 25% from the "clean" pressure. Sand filters actually filter a little better as tehy get dirty as the captured particles become more filter media.
Running pressure is about 9. I backwash when it hits about 11.
FC was 24 last night, 24 this morning and 24 this afternoon. CC was 0-.5. I used the diluted method to test FC to save reagent. Pump running all day. Water is a light turquoise. Not much falling to bottom to be vacuumed, but water still a litter cloudy. Continue monitoring FC and run pump?
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You are done when:
- CC is 0.5 or lower;
- You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- And the water is clear.
So you need to keep going until the water is clear.
When testing, have you been doing the 10mL sample or 25mL sample? You only need to do the 10mL sample.