Right. The original purpose was to test the SWG itself. But the pool was just too big to measure it's output. Thus the SWG test with the spa.
For real, what's going on with my chlorine level?
- Thread starter hawkmoon7
- Start date
As an update...
I was unable to do the overnight Fc loss test last night. Here's what I know...
Testing the SWG in the spa only, showed exactly the correct chlorine gain I would have expected if the SWG was working correctly.
I am ordering more powder for the chlorine drop test (I've been going through a ton of it). My last known measurements of the pool was Fc @ 10ppm yesterday morning and 5ppm about 30 hours later. Water looks crystal clear of course. SWG ran at 60% for 10 hours yesterday (Less than normal since I ran the spa only test). Got about 3/4 inch of rain last night which messed up my overnight chlorine test. Going to raise Fc to 12 this morning, and then redo the test tonight.
I was unable to do the overnight Fc loss test last night. Here's what I know...
Testing the SWG in the spa only, showed exactly the correct chlorine gain I would have expected if the SWG was working correctly.
I am ordering more powder for the chlorine drop test (I've been going through a ton of it). My last known measurements of the pool was Fc @ 10ppm yesterday morning and 5ppm about 30 hours later. Water looks crystal clear of course. SWG ran at 60% for 10 hours yesterday (Less than normal since I ran the spa only test). Got about 3/4 inch of rain last night which messed up my overnight chlorine test. Going to raise Fc to 12 this morning, and then redo the test tonight.
I did a complete test today. (This was 3 hours after adding 45 oz of 11.5% shock, for a 2.9ppm increase). I also added a floater with 2 chlorine tablets 2 days ago. SWG at 100% for 14 hours:
Fc = 9
Cc = .5
pH = 7.3
TA = 50
CH = 350
CYA = 60 ***
Salt = 3200
Phosphates = 200
Borates = 60
*** the ever-shrinking CYA reduction strikes again. No one has explained to me why I've gone through over 30 pounds of stabilizer this year (Pool was built last year and stabilized at around 40 when first filled. I've made all of the additions in the attached photo, plus 2, 4 lb bags I bought from a local pool store. Total of 37 pounds for my 17k gallon pool. I last measured my stabilizer near 100 not too long ago when I threw in the 7 lb bag. I've also bought tons of reagent (a 48oz bottle of R0013) because of how often I check it). I know... splash out and draining... I promise and swear, I'm at my wits end on the stabilizer... My pool is surrounded about 75% of the way with walls, and over half is covered by a roof. We get little splash out, nor rain/drainage, except for a few weeks during the rainy season. I also keep it covered so evaporation is very little. I haven't drained or added water to my pool since last August or so. I guess the good news is I can SLAM it again for the 5th or so time this year.
One last thing I'll mention... It rained the other day and water pooled on the deck above the grotto. About 4 hours later it was reddish and slimy. I mixed some shock with water and cleaned it up to kill whatever that was.
Fc = 9
Cc = .5
pH = 7.3
TA = 50
CH = 350
CYA = 60 ***
Salt = 3200
Phosphates = 200
Borates = 60
*** the ever-shrinking CYA reduction strikes again. No one has explained to me why I've gone through over 30 pounds of stabilizer this year (Pool was built last year and stabilized at around 40 when first filled. I've made all of the additions in the attached photo, plus 2, 4 lb bags I bought from a local pool store. Total of 37 pounds for my 17k gallon pool. I last measured my stabilizer near 100 not too long ago when I threw in the 7 lb bag. I've also bought tons of reagent (a 48oz bottle of R0013) because of how often I check it). I know... splash out and draining... I promise and swear, I'm at my wits end on the stabilizer... My pool is surrounded about 75% of the way with walls, and over half is covered by a roof. We get little splash out, nor rain/drainage, except for a few weeks during the rainy season. I also keep it covered so evaporation is very little. I haven't drained or added water to my pool since last August or so. I guess the good news is I can SLAM it again for the 5th or so time this year.
One last thing I'll mention... It rained the other day and water pooled on the deck above the grotto. About 4 hours later it was reddish and slimy. I mixed some shock with water and cleaned it up to kill whatever that was.
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Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If your loosing that much your water temp is either getting really high or you could have a bacteria that eats CYA. It creates ammonia and ammonia would be consuming all your chlorine. Easiest way to tell is to buy an ammonia test kit for aqauriums at the pet store.
Aquarium Water Test Kits - Water Quality Testers | PetSmart
Ensure your fish thrive with PetSmart's water test kits and quality testers. Find pH, ammonia, nitrate tests, and more for freshwater and saltwater tanks.
If your loosing that much your water temp is either getting really high or you could have a bacteria that eats CYA. It creates ammonia and ammonia would be consuming all your chlorine. Easiest way to tell is to buy an ammonia test kit for aqauriums at the pet store.
Aquarium Water Test Kits - Water Quality Testers | PetSmart
Ensure your fish thrive with PetSmart's water test kits and quality testers. Find pH, ammonia, nitrate tests, and more for freshwater and saltwater tanks.www.petsmart.com
Great advice; thank you. I'll learn more about it, and get a test kit.
I'm going to log everything here until I get this figured out....
I ordered the test kit for ammonia and will test it when it arrives on Wed.
I also added 12 oz of liquid chlorine for a .7 Fc raise to top me off after using the pool. Will test tonight for an overnight chlorine test since rain is unlikely.
Also... I realized I have two unused suction and return lines in my pool. One is a vacuum suction line with a spring activated flap that keeps it closed. I'm guessing it's sealed off pretty good, but the water in that pipe has been stagnant for 4 months since I got an electric robot. BUT...
I also have a return line that does NOT have a flap. It is a bypass for my water features that run on a separate pump, however, the valve is always closed at the pump because I have a variable speed pump and control pressure that way (instead of letting water out the bypass return). Therefore, the water in that pipe (2 inch pipe at 120 feet) is exposed to the pool water because it has an open return nozzle, but hasn't been circulated in about a year. I am adding an actuator to it so I can have the system run clean, chlorinated pool water through it for 5 minutes at least once a day, (like I do for my other water features). I never thought about bacteria before, but it seems like a place where it could survive and cause a problem.
I ordered the test kit for ammonia and will test it when it arrives on Wed.
I also added 12 oz of liquid chlorine for a .7 Fc raise to top me off after using the pool. Will test tonight for an overnight chlorine test since rain is unlikely.
Also... I realized I have two unused suction and return lines in my pool. One is a vacuum suction line with a spring activated flap that keeps it closed. I'm guessing it's sealed off pretty good, but the water in that pipe has been stagnant for 4 months since I got an electric robot. BUT...
I also have a return line that does NOT have a flap. It is a bypass for my water features that run on a separate pump, however, the valve is always closed at the pump because I have a variable speed pump and control pressure that way (instead of letting water out the bypass return). Therefore, the water in that pipe (2 inch pipe at 120 feet) is exposed to the pool water because it has an open return nozzle, but hasn't been circulated in about a year. I am adding an actuator to it so I can have the system run clean, chlorinated pool water through it for 5 minutes at least once a day, (like I do for my other water features). I never thought about bacteria before, but it seems like a place where it could survive and cause a problem.
Last night I added 40 oz of liquid chlorine to bump levels to 10.5ppm (a 2.5ppm addition). It fell from 10 to 8ppm during the day, with the SWG running at 100% for 12 hours and with a floater of 2 tablets in the pool all day.
Overnight chlorine test showed 1.5 loss, and a solid .5 of Cc. We got just a tad amount of rain, more of a sprinkle, really. So maybe that's where the extra .5 went?
This morning, Fc at 9ppm, Cc a solid .5. CYA is near 60, but I feel more like 55 maybe. Since my last CYA measurement, the pool took on about 3/4 of an inch of rain, so that may be behind the 60 to 55 drop. But I don't know what's behind the 100 to 60 drop over this last month or so. pH at 7.6, and I'm lowering to 7.2 (I have a lot of upward pressure on pH because the SWG is at 100%).
I've done two more things...
1. I have set up the automation system to purge the extra open return/bypass line for 5 minutes every day. Before now, it hasn't been circulated with water for a year, but it is exposed to the pool through an open return port.
2. I also removed a bucket of water from the pool and covered it in plastic film. I am going to leave it out to see what exactly grows in it if given the opportunity.
My plan for today...
Now that my CYA has fallen to the 50 to 60 range again, I'm going to let the chlorine drop to 7, and try to hold it there. When it falls to 5, I'll top off again to 7.
Also, I'm going to monitor CYA and if it is clear that it drops to 50, I'll probably just SLAM it (for like the 6th time this year) and then bump the CYA back to 60.
As always, if anyone sees any issues with the above, I'm more than open for suggestion / intervention!
Overnight chlorine test showed 1.5 loss, and a solid .5 of Cc. We got just a tad amount of rain, more of a sprinkle, really. So maybe that's where the extra .5 went?
This morning, Fc at 9ppm, Cc a solid .5. CYA is near 60, but I feel more like 55 maybe. Since my last CYA measurement, the pool took on about 3/4 of an inch of rain, so that may be behind the 60 to 55 drop. But I don't know what's behind the 100 to 60 drop over this last month or so. pH at 7.6, and I'm lowering to 7.2 (I have a lot of upward pressure on pH because the SWG is at 100%).
I've done two more things...
1. I have set up the automation system to purge the extra open return/bypass line for 5 minutes every day. Before now, it hasn't been circulated with water for a year, but it is exposed to the pool through an open return port.
2. I also removed a bucket of water from the pool and covered it in plastic film. I am going to leave it out to see what exactly grows in it if given the opportunity.
My plan for today...
Now that my CYA has fallen to the 50 to 60 range again, I'm going to let the chlorine drop to 7, and try to hold it there. When it falls to 5, I'll top off again to 7.
Also, I'm going to monitor CYA and if it is clear that it drops to 50, I'll probably just SLAM it (for like the 6th time this year) and then bump the CYA back to 60.
As always, if anyone sees any issues with the above, I'm more than open for suggestion / intervention!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,066
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The only concern I see above is that you lost 1.5 FC overnight which would not be a passing grade for the OCLT. You certainly have the option to let the FC fall and monitor, we just hate to see you lose any progress made since you started this thread. Let us know if you have any questions or concerns.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,412
- Pool Size
- 18375
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- Plaster
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- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
This, along with the cloudy water you mentioned in a previous post, is a strong indicator of algae. A little rain will have little effect on the FC test. If in doubt, try again.
You might try a 25mL sample for more accuracy. Use two scoops of powder. Multiply number of drops by 0.20 for FC result.
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- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,073
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Its SLAM Process time - your hidden stagnant lines are likely the cause for your recurring issues. Neglecting to clean hidden areas like light niches & water features etc during slam are a common reason it can drag on or algae/ high fc demand seems to come right back.
A cya of 60 or less is quite low for a swg pool in florida. After u are sure slam is complete, raising that to the 70’s will likely help alot with fc loss, keeping the sun from consuming it as fast as the swg makes it. If your cya reads 55 - count it as 60 & chlorinate (slam) accordingly FC/CYA Levels. There’s no in betweens- the test cannot be interpreted that way. Always round up to the next “10”.
Also - plz add all your info to your signature- as your thread grows it’s hard to go back through & find those things.
www.google.com
A cya of 60 or less is quite low for a swg pool in florida. After u are sure slam is complete, raising that to the 70’s will likely help alot with fc loss, keeping the sun from consuming it as fast as the swg makes it. If your cya reads 55 - count it as 60 & chlorinate (slam) accordingly FC/CYA Levels. There’s no in betweens- the test cannot be interpreted that way. Always round up to the next “10”.
Also - plz add all your info to your signature- as your thread grows it’s hard to go back through & find those things.
Create Your Signature - Further Reading
www.google.com
Thank you everyone. I will throw more CYA in after I SLAM again. I still can't explain why I lose so much CYA so quickly, though.
Water is currently crystal clear, so I'm going to hold off on the SLAM for a bit longer. I will redo the overnight chlorine loss test and clean out the filter and SWG just to check those boxes. I'll continue to supplement the chlorine at elevated levels until I can SLAM again (We are using the pool this week for some events). I also updated my signature.
As for the hidden spots, is running the pool water through that bypass pipe for 5 minutes a day enough? (I can't believe that water has been exposed to the pool for a year without circulation). I have a LOT of piping for a lot of water features. I run them 5 minutes a day to flush them out. The water features (not the bypass pipe) is occasionally run for a few hours at a time when we use them. They are all on a separate pump that doesn't get chlorinated. Is this enough?
Also, I have 7 globrite niches. I am sure there is water in the electrical conduit behind all of them. But I have no way of clearing that out. I was told those lights seal and trapped water won't be a problem.
Water is currently crystal clear, so I'm going to hold off on the SLAM for a bit longer. I will redo the overnight chlorine loss test and clean out the filter and SWG just to check those boxes. I'll continue to supplement the chlorine at elevated levels until I can SLAM again (We are using the pool this week for some events). I also updated my signature.
As for the hidden spots, is running the pool water through that bypass pipe for 5 minutes a day enough? (I can't believe that water has been exposed to the pool for a year without circulation). I have a LOT of piping for a lot of water features. I run them 5 minutes a day to flush them out. The water features (not the bypass pipe) is occasionally run for a few hours at a time when we use them. They are all on a separate pump that doesn't get chlorinated. Is this enough?
Also, I have 7 globrite niches. I am sure there is water in the electrical conduit behind all of them. But I have no way of clearing that out. I was told those lights seal and trapped water won't be a problem.
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- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,073
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
An hour per day through water features/ pipes during slam is a good idea. If it is pool water it should have slam level fc.
Also, it is safe to swim between min & slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety purposes.
& The glo brites should be good to go
Also, it is safe to swim between min & slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety purposes.
& The glo brites should be good to go
I’m curious what the result of your overnight chlorine gain test was? That was one original question on whether your cell was making the expected amount of chlorine? I’m getting lost in all the messages.
I haven't had any real noticeable chlorine increase in the pool with the SWG overnight. I came up with the idea of testing it at 100% in just my 1,000 gallon spa for 1 hour. According to the SWG calculator, I should see an obviously detectable rise of 7 Fc.
Just to eliminate all variables, I did it after sunset and compared it to the Fc in the pool water to account for any algea losses, if any. The difference between the two bodies should be what the SWG added to the spa. And don't you know, it was pretty much right on 7 Fc as predicted. I also notice lots of those hydrogen bubbles, and all green lights on the SWG, cell look good and it's only a year old. I'll also get some flakes if the pH rises too fast before I bring it down (an easy thing to happen when the SWG is running at 100 for most of the day). So with that test, it does appear to not only be working, but working at it's correct rating.
I do think my realization that there was an unused open pipe (It's over 100 feet and around 2" in diameter) that was exposed to the water, but never circulated, might explain some things. I'm going to keep logging everything here because I also have a hard time keeping track of all of this, and it'll be good for me to be able to look back and reference it.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 3,005
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi fellow Floridian. Let me see if I can help. First what part of west coast of Florida are you in? Are you logging your results in pool math? If so set the flag to share them. It will help us help you. Also make sure you log water temp. I think you mentioned that your CYA has dropped. What is your current CYA? You may be in a position to be able to SLAM now.
Thank you for the kind offer. I am north Tampa/Land O Lakes area. I was not maintaining a log in PoolMath, but I was keeping my own spreadsheet. I've recently just dumped everything here (mostly for my own reference and those kind enough to read it all!). But I can certainly pull the details out of this and back into my spreadsheet as I track it more.
This morning was interesting... I've only been flushing that pipe for 2 days, but maybe I'm starting to see results? Here's what's new this morning:
Water looks great (as it nearly always has). Plaster is blue-green, so it is hard to tell in the photos. Water temps between 87 and 90, but we have a 1,000 gallon spa that we occasionally heat to 95 once or twice a week.
Fc 9.5, Cc between 0 and .5, CYA clearly at 55... so my goal of keeping the Fc elevated is taking less and less liquid chlorine additions. (started with about 90oz a day only a week or so ago, now down to 8 oz). With the CYA only half of what it was about a month ago, I know I can't keep it at 10ppm. A SLAM is in my near future, but having done 4 (or was it 5?) of them this year, I really want to problem solve as much as possible before doing it again to hopefully break the cycle.
Also,
The bucket of water I took out of the pool yesterday and covered with cling wrap looks clear, chlorine actually holding at 4 despite no chlorination. Meanwhile, my pool has a floater with 2 chlorine tablets and SWG @ 100% for 14 hours.
I'll repeat the overnight chlorine loss test tonight.
Attachments
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,073
- Pool Size
- 26000
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- Vinyl
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- Salt Water Generator
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Your swg is off for a bit Before& during the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test correct?
You can’t really read 55 on the cya test so it counts as 60ppm - chlorinate accordingly. Without raising fc to slam level & letting slam water go through the stagnant pipes you are just keeping whatever is in there at bay - not eradicating it.
Do u have a way to plug/ cap off those lines permanently on each end?
* remember- it is safe to swim w/fc above minimum & up to slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end of the pool for safety purposes.
You can’t really read 55 on the cya test so it counts as 60ppm - chlorinate accordingly. Without raising fc to slam level & letting slam water go through the stagnant pipes you are just keeping whatever is in there at bay - not eradicating it.
Do u have a way to plug/ cap off those lines permanently on each end?
* remember- it is safe to swim w/fc above minimum & up to slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end of the pool for safety purposes.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 3,005
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Ok, so your CYA is at 60. You can SLAM. Remove the pucks, they are adding CYA. We can put them back in later.
The key to this on is completing the SLAM properly. The general hypothesis is that you never fully completed a SLAM which is why you are having recurring problems.
Go get a bunch of Chorine. Your SLAM level is 24 get it there ASAP and keep it there. Then start flushing your pipes and water features etc.
You are in good hands, we will get you through this.
The key to this on is completing the SLAM properly. The general hypothesis is that you never fully completed a SLAM which is why you are having recurring problems.
Go get a bunch of Chorine. Your SLAM level is 24 get it there ASAP and keep it there. Then start flushing your pipes and water features etc.
You are in good hands, we will get you through this.
Oh boy... I've been diagnosing my SWG and automation system all afternoon. Here's what's going on...
There seems to be a bug in the Intellicenter software that is periodically shutting off my SWG. Let me explain:
I run multiple schedules throughout the day to keep everything in the pipes moving along. If, for example, I only direct the pool water to the spa, the two bodies of water mix, but then I'm not circulating the water in the main drain of the spa. So to oversimplify my schedules: I filter the pool, then the spa, then I run the spillover to mix the two bodies of water together. Coupled with running my water features (on a separate pump) a bit each day AND now my water feature bypass line a bit each day, everything should now be getting circulated. (I don't want to cap this because I could end up deadheading the pump if I mess up the valve orientation).
Well, I put in the liquid chlorine, and I adjust the programs manually from my phone to get everything to mix together, and I don't see any bubbles coming out of the returns. Is my SWG still on? Nope. All lights off. I open up the panel to test voltage. The relay that controls the SWG is not activated. In service mode, I can manually trigger the relay and power to the SWG is restored. The Intellicenter is simply not activating the relay during the program as it should.
This is the "POOL" main relay. Ordinarily, when the pool is scheduled to be on in the Intellicenter, this relay powers both the main pump and the SWG. But I have an "Intelli" pump. So the pump is hardwired to always be on, and the Intellicenter communicates to it via data protocol. BUT, the Intellichlor works slightly different. If it is always powered, it will always run EXCEPT THAT the flow switch keeps it off when the pump isn't on, and it shows a low-flow red light. The installers wired this to the pump relay. When pool is on, SWG is powered via relay, and pump is running via data commands. There is no instance where the "Pool" should be on, and that relay is not activated. Were it not for the "intelli" pump, it's the only way to power a regular pump and therefor it's the only way the "pool" could be on.
Well, it took forever, but I finally got the problem to be somewhat repeatable. Switching between pool, spa, and spillway schedules... and then back to pool, will create a situation where the Intellicenter SAYS the pool is on... the Intellipump actually is on, but that relay is off, meaning no SWG power. Worse, it doesn't happen every time. I can't create an exact pattern of switching schedules/feature circuits that deactivates the relay every time. But with enough jumping around between them, it eventually is re-creatable.
Here's something even more damning... back in Nov, my entire Intellicenter died and had to be replaced, but it took months to get a replacement. During that time, I switched over to running the filter schedule on the pump itself, through it's own onboard interface. But I had no way of activating the SWG pool relay without the Intellicenter... So we disconnected it from the relay and wired it to constant power. The lights were on all the time. Annoyingly so because at night, that little red blinking led was so noticeable! But it was on. Also, during those months, it was the only time chloring levels were stable with the SWG running at 50% or so. At the time I attributed it to cooler temperatures because we turned off the heater those months and the pool dipped to mid 70's. But now I'm wondering if in fact, it was because the hard wiring prevented the situation with the SWG relay cutting out.
Anyway.... Fc is at 25ppm right now for SLAM. SWG still set to 100% for now.
There seems to be a bug in the Intellicenter software that is periodically shutting off my SWG. Let me explain:
I run multiple schedules throughout the day to keep everything in the pipes moving along. If, for example, I only direct the pool water to the spa, the two bodies of water mix, but then I'm not circulating the water in the main drain of the spa. So to oversimplify my schedules: I filter the pool, then the spa, then I run the spillover to mix the two bodies of water together. Coupled with running my water features (on a separate pump) a bit each day AND now my water feature bypass line a bit each day, everything should now be getting circulated. (I don't want to cap this because I could end up deadheading the pump if I mess up the valve orientation).
Well, I put in the liquid chlorine, and I adjust the programs manually from my phone to get everything to mix together, and I don't see any bubbles coming out of the returns. Is my SWG still on? Nope. All lights off. I open up the panel to test voltage. The relay that controls the SWG is not activated. In service mode, I can manually trigger the relay and power to the SWG is restored. The Intellicenter is simply not activating the relay during the program as it should.
This is the "POOL" main relay. Ordinarily, when the pool is scheduled to be on in the Intellicenter, this relay powers both the main pump and the SWG. But I have an "Intelli" pump. So the pump is hardwired to always be on, and the Intellicenter communicates to it via data protocol. BUT, the Intellichlor works slightly different. If it is always powered, it will always run EXCEPT THAT the flow switch keeps it off when the pump isn't on, and it shows a low-flow red light. The installers wired this to the pump relay. When pool is on, SWG is powered via relay, and pump is running via data commands. There is no instance where the "Pool" should be on, and that relay is not activated. Were it not for the "intelli" pump, it's the only way to power a regular pump and therefor it's the only way the "pool" could be on.
Well, it took forever, but I finally got the problem to be somewhat repeatable. Switching between pool, spa, and spillway schedules... and then back to pool, will create a situation where the Intellicenter SAYS the pool is on... the Intellipump actually is on, but that relay is off, meaning no SWG power. Worse, it doesn't happen every time. I can't create an exact pattern of switching schedules/feature circuits that deactivates the relay every time. But with enough jumping around between them, it eventually is re-creatable.
Here's something even more damning... back in Nov, my entire Intellicenter died and had to be replaced, but it took months to get a replacement. During that time, I switched over to running the filter schedule on the pump itself, through it's own onboard interface. But I had no way of activating the SWG pool relay without the Intellicenter... So we disconnected it from the relay and wired it to constant power. The lights were on all the time. Annoyingly so because at night, that little red blinking led was so noticeable! But it was on. Also, during those months, it was the only time chloring levels were stable with the SWG running at 50% or so. At the time I attributed it to cooler temperatures because we turned off the heater those months and the pool dipped to mid 70's. But now I'm wondering if in fact, it was because the hard wiring prevented the situation with the SWG relay cutting out.
Anyway.... Fc is at 25ppm right now for SLAM. SWG still set to 100% for now.
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Added issue with SWG and Intellicenter:
I went back and forth from pool to spa and so on for a bit more and then I noticed that the chemistry page no longer listed the SWG for the spa. Sure enough, in spa mode, the SWG was on (because it's now hard wired) but the output setting was set to none. Why? Well, the system configuration page somehow changed, listing the SWG as only for the pool and not the spa. This setting was never changed by me, but the system somehow changed it internally, disabling the output on spa mode.
I went back and forth from pool to spa and so on for a bit more and then I noticed that the chemistry page no longer listed the SWG for the spa. Sure enough, in spa mode, the SWG was on (because it's now hard wired) but the output setting was set to none. Why? Well, the system configuration page somehow changed, listing the SWG as only for the pool and not the spa. This setting was never changed by me, but the system somehow changed it internally, disabling the output on spa mode.
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