what is my best options to install SWG according to my pool eq setup?

[sangweb]

See the attachments of my setup as I am leaning forward as option 2 as it still keeps my old chlorinator using tablets and without having to cut the existing setup. I would like to put the flow switch and swa together but I don't think there's enough space for me to do this. Any recommendation or suggestion? TIA.

 

[PoolGate]

swa?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

It looks like you have plenty of room for both the flow switch and SWG. Did you measure? Another option is a vertical installation on the line coming out of the heater.

Which SWG did you select?

 

[sangweb]

swa?

My bad, it’s swg, autocorrect messed it up.

 

[sangweb]

It looks like you have plenty of room for both the flow switch and SWG. Did you measure? Another option is a vertical installation on the line coming out of the heater.

Which SWG did you select?

I’ve chosen the circupool run 45+, like yours. Should I remove the chlorinator or just put it where I’ve labeled swa (swg) & the flow switch in options 2 is fined then? This setup would be least amount of work.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Have you measured the run labeled "SWA?" You should have plenty of room for the flow switch and SWG. SWG needs about 16" and the flow switch needs about 4". Optimally, you want to leave about 2" between fittings in case you need to replumb in the future.

Looking at the chlorinator, removing it may not be an easy task. After cutting it out, there is no pipe left to attach fittings. You can leave it in and use if for tablets during winter when temps are too cold for the SWG (<60 degrees).

Trying to place the flow switch under Option 2 looks nearly impossible without cutting other lines. Each pipe end slips into the flow switch about 1.25" and there's no flex in that section to separate pipe ends. Make sense?

 

[sangweb]

Have you measured the run labeled "SWA?" You should have plenty of room for the flow switch and SWG. SWG needs about 16" and the flow switch needs about 4". Optimally, you want to leave about 2" between fittings in case you need to replumb in the future.

Looking at the chlorinator, removing it may not be an easy task. After cutting it out, there is no pipe left to attach fittings. You can leave it in and use if for tablets during winter when temps are too cold for the SWG (<60 degrees).

Trying to place the flow switch under Option 2 looks nearly impossible without cutting other lines. Each pipe end slips into the flow switch about 1.25" and there's no flex in that section to separate pipe ends. Make sense?

the SWA, it only fits the SWG as due to the incoming it blocks about 4-6" so I am not sure if I can put a union there, I will need some spaces for the union. What about option 2 where I need to remove the chlorinator, the issue there is too many union and I don't have a place to cut allowing some PVC pipe for any union. I wonder if it is possible to remove the PVC from the union and reuse it.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If you're positive there's no room, you have options. If it were my pool, I would do a vertical install in the area labeled "SWA." You don't need to use the Circupool kit as you can use four 90's and scrap pipe to make your own, but here's what it looks like:


If you're set on removing the chlorinator and installing the flow switch there, you'll need to reuse the socket on the right. Take a look at "socket savers." You should be able to find posts here and on the interweb demonstrating use. I've never used one. There are other methods that involve heating the inner pipe and using needle nose pliers to remove it from the socket. If you mess up the socket, you'll be stuck significant replumbing work.

 

[sangweb]

If you're positive there's no room, you have options. If it were my pool, I would do a vertical install in the area labeled "SWA." You don't need to use the Circupool kit as you can use four 90's and scrap pipe to make your own, but here's what it looks like:
View attachment 411932

If you're set on removing the chlorinator and installing the flow switch there, you'll need to reuse the socket on the right. Take a look at "socket savers." You should be able to find posts here and on the interweb demonstrating use. I've never used one. There are other methods that involve heating the inner pipe and using needle nose pliers to remove it from the socket. If you mess up the socket, you'll be stuck significant replumbing work.

Thanks, I didn't think about vertical until your post. That's how much room I have to work with.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

That's how much room I have to work with.

It looks like a longer run in the photos.

I think your best bet is vertical. Leave the chlorinator in and tackle that if it causes problems for you. You can still use it for tablets in the winter.

Let us know what you decide and post some pics after the install.

 

[sangweb]

It looks like a longer run in the photos.

I think your best bet is vertical. Leave the chlorinator in and tackle that if it causes problems for you. You can still use it for tablets in the winter.

Let us know what you decide and post some pics after the install.

I will, adding all the parts together at HD comes out to be the same as buying the kits, only downside is I have to wait for it to be shipped.

 

[proavia]

If going vertical, be sure the flow switch is in the up pipe (flow wise). If the switch were to fail (and they do), you want it to fail so it shuts the SWG off.

 

[sangweb]

If going vertical, be sure the flow switch is in the up pipe (flow wise). If the switch were to fail (and they do), you want it to fail so it shuts the SWG off.

You mean make sure the flow is pointing upright because the water is going up correct? Just to confirm, just got the unit today, going to HD tomorrow to grab all the unions, pcv and s-elbows. Hopefully I can get it done in a few hours.

 

[proavia]

There is an arrow on the flow switch. If going vetical, that arrow needs to point UP.

 

[sangweb]

I've assembled the config but I am not so sure if this is correct as from CP kit, it didn't show the flow of the water and the SWG seems to be backward unless the flow of the water is hitting th SWG first then the switch flow, for mine, it goes to the Flow switch first then the SWG. Is my SWG setup correctly?

 

[proavia]

Yes, that setup is fine.

However, don't use those type of 90's. They have a short socket depth and are usually not rated for pressurized plumbing - they are DWV (drain, waste, vent) fittings. Also, using sweep 90's isn't going to gain any efficiency in flow.

Use standard schedule 40 PVC 90's.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Yes, that setup is fine. However, don't use those type of 90's. They have a short socket depth and are usually not rated for pressurized plumbing - they are DWV (drain, waste, vent) fittings.

Congrats on the new baby!

Look for this elbow...

Charlotte Pipe 2 in. x 2 in. 90 Degree PVC Socket x Socket Elbow Fitting PVC023001600HD - The Home Depot

Complete your commercial and residential projects by using this Charlotte Pipe's PVC S x S Elbow. Convenient to install.

www.homedepot.com

 

[sangweb]

Yes, that setup is fine.

However, don't use those type of 90's. They have a short socket depth and are usually not rated for pressurized plumbing - they are DWV (drain, waste, vent) fittings. Also, using sweep 90's isn't going to gain any efficiency in flow.

Use standard schedule 40 PVC 90's.

Thanks, looks like another trip to HD, also thanks for the link Rancho.

 

[sangweb]

Getting close to the finish line but unsure about the load 1 and 2 lines, does it matter which color (white or black) goes where? TIA.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]