3 week slam and so many questions still

[Justin9314]

Good afternoon everyone! First spring for us and I was super anxious to peek into the pool to see what I would be dealing with this spring. It is clear all the way to the bottom. However, on the bottom, there is a decent amount of silt or dirt. Through the research of this lovely forum, I think it is a combination of both dead algae and just dust in general (no yard yet, new construction home). I had to SLAM my pool last fall, super late into the season to get rid of a green pool. I would say I got 90% there until I had to winterize it for the year. This leads me to think it is algae. Either way, I am having a hard time researching the most efficient way to clean it up. Do I just toss the robot in? Turn the pump on high and let her rip? Thoughts?

Thanks for any insight provided

 

[Texas Splash]

No doubt you probably have dirt and muck that settled over the winter, so do your best to vacuum all that up first. The robot is fine. Be sure to brush any areas the robot can't reach. If it is algae, you need to follow the SLAM Process thoroughly until you pass all 3 criteria. If you aren't sure, you can run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first.

 

[Texas Splash]

This link may be helpful as well.

Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide

Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Justin9314]

No doubt you probably have dirt and muck that settled over the winter, so do your best to vacuum all that up first. The robot is fine. Be sure to brush any areas the robot can't reach. If it is algae, you need to follow the SLAM Process thoroughly until you pass all 3 criteria. If you aren't sure, you can run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first.

Thank you! I need to do an overnight test to see if I am losing chlorine. I did a full set of tests today and my FC seems good? My CYA is low, but I wanted to seek the group's opinion before I fix that? Based on the pool school, CYA cannot be too high before a test. PoolMath Logs

Also, when I search about setting the speed of my pump, I felt like I got different answers. To clarify, should I be increasing the speed or running a lower speed to help with this type of filtration? There are not any large debris so, from a skimmer perspective, that is not as high a priority.

Pool was clear to the bottom until I ran the robot

 

[Texas Splash]

Your pool still has algae, so you'll need to start the SLAM Process. Based on your test results, first lower the pH to about 7.2. Then, based on your current CYA of 50 and referring to the FC/CYA Levels, your SLAM FC level needs to be maintained at 20 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Be sure to follow all the steps on that page and you'll have crustal clear water.

Your pump can be on a low speed/rpm. No need to run it fast.

 

[Justin9314]

Hello everyone,

I guess I am seeking validation/a therapy session, that I am still heading down the right path. I have been slamming since March 21st, and have seen great progress. However, for the life of me, I cannot get the deep end crystal clear. I can see the bottom, especially in the morning. Even in the morning, I wouldn't compare the clarity to the pictures that individuals share on this site. Tonight, I retested my CYA to make sure I was keeping the correct ratio of FC to CYA, which appeared to be so.

Few things to note -

1. I have been running my robot on 2.5 cycles multiple times a day. I alternate between the floor only and the whole pool. I brush multiple times a day as well.
2. My return that is over the deep end has a significant leak that I have not looked at repairing yet due to the temp. The leak is right behind the pool wall, unfortunately, so will have to drain the pool some to address it (hoping I can fix it from the inside instead of going through the concrete). With that said, after searching this forum, I bought a 90degree eyeball fitting to point my second fitting (middle of the pool) towards the bottom of the deep end. I also tossed my cover pump into the deep end and routed the connected hose into the skimmer for the past couple of days without turning it off. Neither of these appeared to have improved the results, at least not extensively. This leads me to believe that it is still just an algae problem and not a filtration problem?
3. At night, the water has a ton of microbubbles. I think I also have an air leak from one of the skimmer lines. Again, waiting for the temps to get a little better before I address this. However, could the cloudiness in the deep end during the day be bubbles? The deep end is nearly 9' if that matters?
4. To ensure I am not doing a test wrong (CYA), is it worth maintaining the levels at 24 FC instead of 20 to give a better buffer?
   1. Any advice on the FC test? I read on this site that it should be completed within 1 min. However, even with using the speed stir device, I am putting those drops in pretty fast (shooting for 40 drops, plus the 5 for the CC test). Is it possible to go too fast when testing for FC?)

Sorry for so many questions! I am just anxious as our pool opening time is maybe a month out. I opened it early as this is our first year and I expected it would be a learning process. I just want to make sure I am not doing something that is counterproductive

PoolMath Logs (After reviewing my logs, I noticed I must have been doing a poor job on clicking the button that logs the bleach. Every time I tested, I added the recommended amount. I also tested more than what is displayed, but didn't log all of them.)

Thank you to everyone for your willingness to share your knowledge Couldn't do it without you!

 

[offtheclock]

Hello everyone,

I guess I am seeking validation/a therapy session, that I am still heading down the right path. I have been slamming since March 21st, and have seen great progress. However, for the life of me, I cannot get the deep end crystal clear. I can see the bottom, especially in the morning. Even in the morning, I wouldn't compare the clarity to the pictures that individuals share on this site. Tonight, I retested my CYA to make sure I was keeping the correct ratio of FC to CYA, which appeared to be so.

Few things to note -

1. I have been running my robot on 2.5 cycles multiple times a day. I alternate between the floor only and the whole pool. I brush multiple times a day as well.
2. My return that is over the deep end has a significant leak that I have not looked at repairing yet due to the temp. The leak is right behind the pool wall, unfortunately, so will have to drain the pool some to address it (hoping I can fix it from the inside instead of going through the concrete). With that said, after searching this forum, I bought a 90degree eyeball fitting to point my second fitting (middle of the pool) towards the bottom of the deep end. I also tossed my cover pump into the deep end and routed the connected hose into the skimmer for the past couple of days without turning it off. Neither of these appeared to have improved the results, at least not extensively. This leads me to believe that it is still just an algae problem and not a filtration problem?
3. At night, the water has a ton of microbubbles. I think I also have an air leak from one of the skimmer lines. Again, waiting for the temps to get a little better before I address this. However, could the cloudiness in the deep end during the day be bubbles? The deep end is nearly 9' if that matters?
4. To ensure I am not doing a test wrong (CYA), is it worth maintaining the levels at 24 FC instead of 20 to give a better buffer?
   1. Any advice on the FC test? I read on this site that it should be completed within 1 min. However, even with using the speed stir device, I am putting those drops in pretty fast (shooting for 40 drops, plus the 5 for the CC test). Is it possible to go too fast when testing for FC?)

Sorry for so many questions! I am just anxious as our pool opening time is maybe a month out. I opened it early as this is our first year and I expected it would be a learning process. I just want to make sure I am not doing something that is counterproductive

PoolMath Logs (After reviewing my logs, I noticed I must have been doing a poor job on clicking the button that logs the bleach. Every time I tested, I added the recommended amount. I also tested more than what is displayed, but didn't log all of them.)

Thank you to everyone for your willingness to share your knowledge Couldn't do it without you!

1. You say your deep end return has a leak? Why do you suspect that? Are you losing slot of water in the pool?
2. Not a good idea to put a suction pump on your liner. I would remove that.
3. Is your water warm enough for your SWG to be running yet? If so the micro bubbles are most likely hydrogen gas bubbles from the SWG and are normal. Should only be on the pool walls though and would not effect pool clarity.
4. I went and looked at your pool logs and on March 20 you added a lot of muratic acid. Enough that you would of plummeted your PH into the sixes. Was this a accurate log? I take it you were trying to lower your TA?

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Also noticed that some days you only checked FC and added bleach once. You have to hit this really hard multiple times a day consistently for best results. I would check early AM before work, come home for lunch, hit it again at 530PM and then one more time before going to bed.

 

[Justin9314]

1. You say your deep end return has a leak? Why do you suspect that? Are you losing slot of water in the pool?
2. Not a good idea to put a suction pump on your liner. I would remove that.
3. Is your water warm enough for your SWG to be running yet? If so the micro bubbles are most likely hydrogen gas bubbles from the SWG and are normal. Should only be on the pool walls though and would not effect pool clarity.
4. I went and looked at your pool logs and on March 20 you added a lot of muratic acid. Enough that you would of plummeted your PH into the sixes. Was this a accurate log? I take it you were trying to lower your TA?

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Also noticed that some days you only checked FC and added bleach once. You have to hit this really hard multiple times a day consistently for best results. I would check early AM before work, come home for lunch, hit it again at 530PM and then one more time before going to bed.

Thank you for the response.

1. I was losing significant water until I plugged it. I can hear the water loss as well through the concrete
2. Good call
3. Unfortunately no. Still in the high 40's from a water temp perspective.
4. I do see where you are referencing the MA. It appears to be just a double log. I only put in ~1 gallon.

I will be more diligent about logging the tests. I have been testing a minimum of 4 times a day (just forget to actually log them). I will try to move that to 4 or 5.

 

[Newdude]

To ensure I am not doing a test wrong (CYA), is it worth maintaining the levels at 24 FC instead of 20 to give a better buffer?

Unless it was 50 CYA on the nose, you already rounded up and have some buffer.

read on this site that it should be completed within 1 min. However, even with using the speed stir device, I am putting those drops in pretty fast (shooting for 40 drops, plus the 5 for the CC test). Is it possible to go too fast when testing for FC?)

Goodness yes !!!! Slow it down. The minute total test time is for a normal FC of 5(?). It's anecdotal and not something to rush for, just a 'You can do THIS in no time' kinda thing.

Move along and don't dilly dally, but take whatever 2 seconds (?) you need for each drop to fall on its own and be repeatable.

 

[Justin9314]

Unless it was 50 CYA on the nose, you already rounded up and have some buffer.

Goodness yes !!!! Slow it down. The minute total test time is for a normal FC of 5(?). It's anecdotal and not something to rush for, just a 'You can do THIS in no time' kinda thing.

Move along and don't dilly dally, but take whatever 2 seconds (?) you need for each drop to fall on its own and be repeatable.

Haha thank you for the advice!

 

[offtheclock]

Thank you for the response.

1. I was losing significant water until I plugged it. I can hear the water loss as well through the concrete
2. Good call
3. Unfortunately no. Still in the high 40's from a water temp perspective.
4. I do see where you are referencing the MA. It appears to be just a double log. I only put in ~1 gallon.

I will be more diligent about logging the tests. I have been testing a minimum of 4 times a day (just forget to actually log them). I will try to move that to 4 or 5.

You mentioned this is your first year with the pool. Is it a new build? Would you have a warranty for the leak? Also did the leak just start or has this been a in going problem? Wondering if you have freeze damage. About the skimmer leak. Do you think you have water leak at the skimmer or a suction leak? Are your returns blowing a lot of bubbles through them and is your pump basket staying full of water?

In regards to the MA what % did you use? If you used the 31% and added a 128oz that would of dropped your PH to 6.4. Also you sure about pool gallon size?

 

[Justin9314]

You mentioned this is your first year with the pool. Is it a new build? Would you have a warranty for the leak? Also did the leak just start or has this been a in going problem? Wondering if you have freeze damage. About the skimmer leak. Do you think you have water leak at the skimmer or a suction leak? Are your returns blowing a lot of bubbles through them and is your pump basket staying full of water?

In regards to the MA what % did you use? If you used the 31% and added a 128oz that would of dropped your PH to 6.4. Also you sure about pool gallon size?

It was a DIY IG pool so no warranty, unfortunately. We finished out the pool late fall so by the time we detected the leak, it was getting cold and time to winterize. I did a pressure test of the lines, but that was prior to the pool deck being installed so my only guess is either the glue didn't hold or the concrete crew hit it somehow (weight maybe?). I am assuming a suction leak somewhere. I have applied magic lube to all of the seals (2 drain plugs, skimmer lid, and filter o-ring (both the middle where it breaks apart and the top vent part). I reapplied Teflon tape to the treaded output of the pump, however, I still have a very slight drip here. My basket has an air bubble in it but it never grows nor does it lose prime. No significant bubbles coming from the return jets that I can see.

Yikes, I am not sure how I messed that one up. In the pool math app, it says for me to go from 7.5 to 7.2, it would require 143 Oz. I am using the 31.45% strength I believe. I will have to double-check the bottle when I get home.

 

[offtheclock]

It was a DIY IG pool so no warranty, unfortunately. We finished out the pool late fall so by the time we detected the leak, it was getting cold and time to winterize. I did a pressure test of the lines, but that was prior to the pool deck being installed so my only guess is either the glue didn't hold or the concrete crew hit it somehow (weight maybe?). I am assuming a suction leak somewhere. I have applied magic lube to all of the seals (2 drain plugs, skimmer lid, and filter o-ring (both the middle where it breaks apart and the top vent part). I reapplied Teflon tape to the treaded output of the pump, however, I still have a very slight drip here. My basket has an air bubble in it but it never grows nor does it lose prime. No significant bubbles coming from the return jets that I can see.

Yikes, I am not sure how I messed that one up. In the pool math app, it says for me to go from 7.5 to 7.2, it would require 143 Oz. I am using the 31.45% strength I believe. I will have to double-check the bottle when I get home.

I did not account for your high TA. Sorry.

 

[Justin9314]

I did not account for your high TA. Sorry.

No need to be sorry! I appreciate the help for sure. Land of the terrible water for sure.

 

[Justin9314]

Thought I would post a few pictures to show the deep end. You care barely see it, even in the close-up. Honestly, it does look better in person, however. I am going to try to post some night photos to see if anyone has any insight to the haze or bubbles I see at night. I did try various speeds on the pump from low to full speed to see if there were any obvious air bubbles coming from the jets but I came up empty-handed. SWG is turned off due to the cold temp cutoff and being in a slam. Maybe it is just dead algae still or a normal experience for nighttime swimming?

 

[Justin9314]

Hoping this link works, as I feel the video shows the haze a little better.

 

[offtheclock]

Not TFP clear at all. Got to get your SLAM right. I am no expert but I have read enough threads on here where the pros are going to tell you that cloudy water means you are not there yet. Try and add it four times per day during daylight hours. Also how old is your chlorine?

 

[offtheclock]

Also with your suspected suction leak and known return leak are you sure you are not introducing muck/dirt when the pump is running?

 

[Newdude]

Try and add it four times per day during daylight hours.

So close. 4 times, twice. Every 2-3 hours is the preferred frequency. Life gets in the way but the longer the pool stays below SLAM level, the longer it takes.

Also how old is your chlorine?

+1. It's wise to do an occasional verify during SLAM after adding. Once it's over, every dose needs to be verified after, but doing so during a SLAM would eat too many supplies.

 

[Justin9314]

Also with your suspected suction leak and known return leak are you sure you are not introducing muck/dirt when the pump is running?

I cannot completely rule this out, but in my novice opinion, it seems unlikely? The pressure on my filter sits around 5 PSI and the debris on the floor has been reduced by 99% since opening. Is there a way to rule this out completely? Maybe not worth exploring until I pick up the slack on the SLAM?