CH hardness with water softener

Tfpoolfromthestart

Gold Supporter
Feb 8, 2022
100
Arizona
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-16 Plus
My pool was filled with the water softener off. I have a total hardness of 200ppm at the moment but want to bring it up too 350ppm so I don't have to worry about my plaster getting ruined. Will this be too high. Pool store calcium is super expensive. Can I have a list of alternatives? Will ice melt work I found some on Amazon.

To add my water softener has since been turned back on and will be topped off with softened water. With that being said how close of an eye should I keep on the hardness?

Thank you in advanced. Everyone has been great
 
Normally in AZ I would not add calcium. Local water is much too hard. But let's confirm a couple things:
1 - Is this a new pool fill (new plaster)?
2 - Are you sure your outside water hoses are softened? Usually it's only the house water and the outside hose bibs remain hard.

With a CH of 200, I would just allow the pH to ride high at about 7.8 - 8.0 to compensate until the CH climbs then you should be okay. Use the PoolMath APP, enter all of your Taylor K-2006C test results, and look for the "CSI" result. As long as it's not below -0.6 you should be fine. HOWEVER, if this is a new plaster build, then you do want the CSI closer to neutral (zero) or even slightly positive for the first 30 days to assist with plaster curing. So again, see what the PoolMath APP shows for your CSI with your test results to be sure. If you do end-up requiring some calcium, do the minimum amount to get you to about 250.
 
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Normally in AZ I would not add calcium. Local water is much too hard. But let's confirm a couple things:
1 - Is this a new pool fill (new plaster)?
2 - Are you sure your outside water hoses are softened? Usually it's only the house water and the outside hose bibs remain hard.

With a CH of 200, I would just allow the pH to ride high at about 7.8 - 8.0 to compensate until the CH climbs then you should be okay. Use the PoolMath APP, enter all of your Taylor K-2006C test results, and look for the "CSI" result. As long as it's not below -0.6 you should be fine. HOWEVER, if this is a new plaster build, then you do want the CSI closer to neutral (zero) or even slightly positive for the first 30 days to assist with plaster curing. So again, see what the PoolMath APP shows for your CSI with your test results to be sure. If you do end-up requiring some calcium, do the minimum amount to get you to about 250.
Yes my hose bib for the pool fill is softened 100% positive of that because the line feeding the hose is the line coming off my shower. I know this because I had to rip the wall down to install a door next to the hose bib.

It is a new build. With fresh plaster. I will check the CSI.
Thank you.
 
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You could simply turn your auto fill off and then fill the pool using a hose bib that does not have softened water. Sure it’s a bit of pain to do that but within a few months your CH will rise. What matters for plaster is that your CH and TA are elevated for the first 30days so that your CSI is kept close to zero. I would not raise CH but simply keep your TA and pH higher while the plaster cures. 200ppm CH is more than enough calcium.
 
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