Pool guy told me this is how it's done. I disagree

[Turbo1Ton]

Typically the method is to tie a pull string to the cable at the junction box, pull the old fixture/cable out, and then remove the pull string from the old cable, tie it to the new cable, and pull the new cable back to the junction box. Here's a short video.

--Jeff

 

[tomfrh]

I’m installing lights at the moment. I’m splicing at the light, as opposed to pulling the whole cable through.

interesting to see the different methods.

 

[jmastron]

I’m installing lights at the moment. I’m splicing at the light, as opposed to pulling the whole cable through.

interesting to see the different methods.

Maybe I'm not following the thread properly or understanding what you mean, but I was of the impression that the cord from the fixture (installed/sealed by the manufacturer) needs to be continuous all the way to the deck box, with no splicing allowed in any area that can be wet/underwater. For a 12V light I can see the argument that it might not be as unsafe to have a splice (probably still not code), but I don't think I'd want any sort of 120V splice.

Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding the scenario!

Edit: I see that you're in Australia, is this actually done differently/allowed there?

 

[march2012]

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[Brandon1023]

Why can’t you use the old cable? The cable typically splices at the light anyway.

Because from what I saw when our lamp was removed, the cable goes into the housing and it's all one piece. We're also changing the whole fixture to an led one because the gasket has a leak and the lamp is full of water. From what I've read online, it's no problem to do it the way I described by taping the new to the old.

 

[Brandon1023]

Maybe I'm not following the thread properly or understanding what you mean, but I was of the impression that the cord from the fixture (installed/sealed by the manufacturer) needs to be continuous all the way to the deck box, with no splicing allowed in any area that can be wet/underwater. For a 12V light I can see the argument that it might not be as unsafe to have a splice (probably still not code), but I don't think I'd want any sort of 120V splice.

Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding the scenario!

Edit: I see that you're in Australia, is this actually done differently/allowed there?

Yes exactly what he said. No open connections except for the junction box.

 

[tomfrh]

Ahh, got it. You’re using full voltage.

I’m using 12v lights.

 

[jmastron]

Ahh, got it. You’re using full voltage.

I’m using 12v lights.

That makes sense. I *believe* that most USA codes don't permit splices between the fixture and the deck box even for 12V lights. Both 120V and 12V are allowed, and while there are some exceptions to the way GFCI and grounding works for 12V, they haven't made other exceptions for splices that I know of. I understand Australia doesn't permit new 240V lights, now all are 12V?

 

[tomfrh]

All the lights here are 12V.

We had a pool built in the 1980s, and they were 12V halogen then. I have a vivid memory of removing the transformer box covers to investigate why the light didn’t work, and finding a near solid lump of rust. The box was flooded. Mental note - transformers go ABOVE the waterline. ABOVE

 

[jimmythegreek]

Even 12v should be continuous lines amd never tamper with manufacturer sealed connections. Someone's life may depend on this decision.

You can pull a string but I just use a fiberglass fish tape from the top down. This way I know what I'm dealing with before I cut anything. As for intellibrite, they are good if you need control from pentair automation. If not a regular pool light amd an LED bulb work great amd half the money. I use alot of into pools pureled line they change colors and all that jazz

 

[tomfrh]

The 12V lights in Australia don’t come with a long cord with factory sealed connection to the light. You have to splice the wire into the light and seal it. M

 

[Brandon1023]

Even 12v should be continuous lines amd never tamper with manufacturer sealed connections. Someone's life may depend on this decision.

You can pull a string but I just use a fiberglass fish tape from the top down. This way I know what I'm dealing with before I cut anything. As for intellibrite, they are good if you need control from pentair automation. If not a regular pool light amd an LED bulb work great amd half the money. I use alot of into pools pureled line they change colors and all that jazz

Okay cool. I appreciate the suggestion and the method of pulling the light. We'll be ordering something in the next few days and I'll be updating everyone.