New to Saltwater Generators

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Pensruleice

Active member
Jun 8, 2021
27
Western Pa
Pool Size
50000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
Hello, I am new to this forum (and to Saltwater generators)! I have used cl2 pucks for over 30 years in our pool, but decided to go with saltwater because of sky high cya last year (400+)!
So: 50,000 gal, two 1 1/2 hp hayward pumps w/ ec 65 filters. fc=5, pH=7.3 cya=35 (working on raising it) 70 degrees water salt=3500 All tested with good reagents, all taylor products. Pool was shocked.
1) (and this is sooo strange - never seen this before EVER) I put my 2 scoops of r0870 and the test water turns very slightly pink - just a tint (like there is hardly any cl). Now, when i add r 0871 after 2 drops the water turns bright pink, almost red! What is going on! Do i need to check for fc a different way with a saltwater pool?
2) i am using two circupool rj60's. i would have thought this would have been enough to put them both on max to shock the pool, but it wasn't, i had to use good old zapit! I am running them both at 60 % and loosing ground. Not impressed at all. Was i expecting too much? I thought this would have been overkill! (They are functioning properly)

If anyone can answer these, thank you so much (frustrated right now - hoping i didn't make a mistake switching to saltwater!
 
Question 1 - Is definitely weird. The testing method is no different at all.

Question 2 - SWGs are fantastic at producing maintenance doses of chlorine whenever the pump is running. Similar to slowly pouring liquid chlorine in a splash at a time throughout the day. When dialled in right this will get you an amazingly consistent FC level in the water instead of the up/down/up/down you get with other methods.

However, because they're only capable of adding a splash at a time, you cannot quickly raise your FC with the SWG. You would need to use liquid chlorine to make sharp adjustments. That said - you do not need to 'shock the pool' unless you have an algae issue, and in that case you need to SLAM Process. The key after that is to maintain the correct FC level at all times (which your SWG is more than capable of doing) based on your CYA - FC/CYA Levels. If you can do that, test regularly enough to adjust the SWG output % as needed as the seasons shift, then you'll never need to shock again.
 
Pensruleice, did you just open your pool? Was it clear when you shocked it? Why did you shock it? It sounds like you still have something growing in the water. SWG's are not great at raising FC fast (as in shocking). You want liquid chlorine for that, then let the SWG take over and maintain the level. Two RJ60's should be more than enough to handle your pool. Even one could do the job if your ran it 100% 24/7, so 2 will definitely work. You've got some other issue. You probably need to SLAM the pool, but it will be harder to do if you have already raised your CYA. You will need more chlorine if that's the case.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Pensruleice said:
1) (and this is sooo strange - never seen this before EVER) I put my 2 scoops of r0870 and the test water turns very slightly pink - just a tint (like there is hardly any cl). Now, when i add r 0871 after 2 drops the water turns bright pink, almost red! What is going on! Do i need to check for fc a different way with a saltwater pool?
Click to expand...
Only put 10 ml of water in and add two scoops and see if it reacts differently.

When you shocked the pool what product was added and how much?
 
Yes, I just opened it 3 days ago. It was cloudy (normal for opening in PA after a long winter). It wasn't green though, as the water when we first opened it was 58 degrees - 70 now. I just don't know if i am getting a true reading with the reaction my r0871 has to the sample - turning it dark pink after 2 drops! I never had that issue with pucks, so i though there might be a better way to test fc in a saltwater pool - instead of r0870 and r0871. maybe i will try to contact taylor and see what they think. thank you
 
Merged threads - TFP Mod
So I converted to saltwater this year. 50k gallon vinyl liner, (2) 1.5 hp ec 65 fllters. (2) circupool rj 60's.
I have never had this much problems with 3" pucks! I only converted because of high CYA (and spent a fortune on these generators)! I cannot get fc (or combined cl2 to get past 3.0)! Shocked, SLAMed, etc. Surly saltwater generators can put more chlorine in the pool than this! Does anyone else that converted ever go back to the pucks? I super sized these SWG's thinking that would be more than sufficient- they are making lots of pretty little bubbles!
 
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Can you post a full set of test results? Knowing CYA is most important at this point. Are you following the proper CYA to Chlorine ratio? No one that I have ever heard of has gone back to pucks. SWGs maintain chlorine level in a clean and properly maintained pool. They aren't really designed for quick increases.
 
So, June 9 is was 4.5 fc and 0.5 cc (after a shock). now June 13: fc is 0.5 and cc is 3.0 after running these SWG's on max all week. CYA is 55 (I read on this site that for saltwater pools it should be 60 - 80. Salt level is 3500 pH is 7.0 (little low - not my biggest concern right now). alk was 220 (high from last year, but coming down). hardness 150. Nothing too extreme that i shouldn't have a high cc at least.
 

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Pensruleice said:
So I converted to saltwater this year. 50k gallon vinyl liner, (2) 1.5 hp ec 65 fllters. (2) circupool rj 60's.
I have never had this much problems with 3" pucks! I only converted because of high CYA (and spent a fortune on these generators)! I cannot get fc (or combined cl2 to get past 3.0)! Shocked, SLAMed, etc. Surly saltwater generators can put more chlorine in the pool than this! Does anyone else that converted ever go back to the pucks? I super sized these SWG's thinking that would be more than sufficient- they are making lots of pretty little bubbles!
Click to expand...
Your SWGs are generating a lot of FC, but there are probably contaminants in your water consuming it quickly. Perform an OCLT. Post full test results. What test kit are you using?
 
Pensruleice said:
I don't seem to have a cc problem.
Click to expand...
Do realize that CC is not a definitive indicator. Many forms of organics in pool water will not create CC when oxidized by chlorine. Also, CC is rapidly removed from the water by sunlight on the pool water.
 
Thank you mknauss. No, I did not recognize that CC is not a definitive indicator. I was so upset about the circupool rj 60 SWG's that I called the company. They advised me that I may have a phosphate problem (i have had this pool since 1986 and NEVER had or heard of a phosphate problem). I will give them the benefit of their expertise (I ordered a phosphate test kit). I put my old offline chlorinator back on and the chlorine level rose within hours, where the SWG's just used up electricity - frustrating. Also, I have a solar cover on, to try and keep my chlorine in.
 
I’m no expert here, but sounds like either hidden algae or the SWGs not functioning. Did you try adding 5PPM of liquid chlorine after sundown? Measure FC after an hour. Then measure FC first thing in the morning.. that will help rule out any algae issue first.
 
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It's not phosphates. That's a definite red herring. It's not clear whether you took the advice to perform an OCLT?

2 RJ60s absolutely should be kicking out a ton of chlorine.
 
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BenB said:
It's not phosphates. That's a definite red herring. It's not clear whether you took the advice to perform an OCLT?

2 RJ60s absolutely should be kicking out a ton of chlorine.
Click to expand...
Which is being consumed just as fast by algae.
If the pool was just opened, a full SLAM is needed. Only once the water is clear will the SWCG be able to get ahold of it.
Also the low CYA isn't helping as the sun is also helping to burn off the chlorine as its produced.

I just installed a RJ60+ on my pool this summer; it wasn't until I completed a SLAM (after drain and refill) and raised the CYA did the SWCG start holding CL effectively.
I picked a bad time to drain and refill and convert as we had tons of rain, over wash into the pool from deck, etc. But have it under control now and very happy with my RJ60+.
 
I'd first begin by verifying that the SWG is operating as expected, how you ask?
SWG drip test.
I'd plug that SWG back on, set it to 100%, when the pool is running open a pipe downstream of the SWG and test that water. It should have a high chlorine reading.
 
Update on 3" puck to SWG's - (So far): First, thank you all for your suggestions (I also called the SWG company tech support - they believe the SWG's are functioning as intended, based on no alarms and a higher amperage draw on the display. They also said the swg'S are "sensitive"). It has been the biggest, most expensive mistake that I have made by converting to two SWG's (so far this year)! I was able to get the pool sparkling clean, chems test good with my taylor reagents, etc, but NO chlorine (with 2 rj60+ SWG's). Circupool is adamant that it is phosphates - it may be, who knows. I did order a phosphate test kit, but in the mean time I went back to my hayward offline chlorinators. I am totally frustrated with the conversion to salt water, and I personally am sorry that I spent the money on contraptions that will not work for me (even though I super sized them)! So now I have these useless contraptions, AND I just ordered a 50 lb bucket of chlorine tablets - MORE EXPENSE! If you are thinking of converting, my opinion is DON'T! I have had this pool since the mid 1980's and NEVER had this much trouble opening this pool! I will update again.
 

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