My Chlorine levels aren’t at their normal levels and I have cleaned my filter, but my pool water has a green tint to it. How can I correct this?
How to correct a light green tint to the Water?
- Thread starter Bp619
- Start date
Hi Bp619. Welcome to the TFP forum. 
You will soon be seeing posts from members all saying the same thing so I'll get you started.
The green tint could be an algae bloom ready to take hold of your pool. Post your test numbers that tell levels of:
FC free chlorine levels
CC combined chlorine
CYA cyanaric acid=stabalizer
pH
TA total alkalinity
CH calcium hardness
What test kit are you using to get the numbers?
Low FC/chlorine levels will let the algae take hold and it will get worse. If the CYA is high, you will have to use way too much chlorine to kill the algae.
What type of chlorine do you use in your pool?
Here are some links to read up on FC, CC and CYA levels:
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
You will soon be seeing posts from members all saying the same thing so I'll get you started.
The green tint could be an algae bloom ready to take hold of your pool. Post your test numbers that tell levels of:
FC free chlorine levels
CC combined chlorine
CYA cyanaric acid=stabalizer
pH
TA total alkalinity
CH calcium hardness
What test kit are you using to get the numbers?
Low FC/chlorine levels will let the algae take hold and it will get worse. If the CYA is high, you will have to use way too much chlorine to kill the algae.
What type of chlorine do you use in your pool?
Here are some links to read up on FC, CC and CYA levels:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
Algae Archives
www.troublefreepool.com
Last edited:
The chlorine I use is Chlorinating Liquid with 10% Sodium Hypochlorite
my chlorine level is currently 10 I try to keep is between 8.0 & 10.0
my Ph level is at 7.2 right now..
those are the only 2 levels I have been monitoring
my chlorine level is currently 10 I try to keep is between 8.0 & 10.0
my Ph level is at 7.2 right now..
those are the only 2 levels I have been monitoring
Bp619, Mariane said it all so well that my only question is how do you normally chlorinate, and what's stopping you from putting more chlorine in your pool??
If you have a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG for short) you should always have your FC level up at the desired level by using liquid chlorine first and then switching on the SWG to maintain that level.
I would also remind you to test your salt level also if you are using a SWG. It may have dropped over the winter and your SWG won't work properly if the salt is too low.
Please add to your signature some more details about your pool so that we're not having to ask repeatedly for it. Ok? Thanks
Maddie
If you have a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG for short) you should always have your FC level up at the desired level by using liquid chlorine first and then switching on the SWG to maintain that level.
I would also remind you to test your salt level also if you are using a SWG. It may have dropped over the winter and your SWG won't work properly if the salt is too low.
Please add to your signature some more details about your pool so that we're not having to ask repeatedly for it. Ok? Thanks
Maddie
Ah... well that may explain the problem. How's your CYA stabilizer level?? If that's not high enough you may be burning off all your chlorine before it has a chance to work for you. If the CYA is too high you will be inviting algae to move in.
If your Calcium isn't right you might be weakening your plaster pool walls. If too high you could be getting scale developing on the walls.
Your TA is important to keeping your pH stable. High or low pH can cause equipment or pool plaster problems.
You need a reliable test kit. The best (and cheapest) one we endorse is the TF-100 www.tftestkits.net or the K-2006C (C version gives same size reagants as TF-100 for comparison).
You have a costly investment in this pool. Its time to take care of it properly.
Maddie
You do have a test kit?? Which one? Please get us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if applicable)
Then we may be able to spot the problem.
Do you brush your pool? Robot goes up the sides??
Maddie
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if applicable)
Then we may be able to spot the problem.
Do you brush your pool? Robot goes up the sides??
Maddie
Oly
Gold Supporter
Ok my CYA level is above 100....what is my next step and what is my desired level?You do have a test kit?? Which one? Please get us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if applicable)
Then we may be able to spot the problem.
Do you brush your pool? Robot goes up the sides??
Maddie
YippieSkippy has the best questions, and we all look forward to your answers.
and we all look forward to your answers. This is good.
Why do you "keep" it at that level?
This is low.
How are you testing CYA? Are you testing it in the daylight with the sun to your back and tube at waist level?
Ok...I was told by the previous owner to keep it above 7.5 and it hasn’t been as clear as I’d like it, so I keep it higher to hopefully help
Ok I was told 7.2 was a good ph level. What is a better number?
I am in my garage measuring the CYA level with good lighting and I’m very close to the tube.
Ok I was told 7.2 was a good ph level. What is a better number?
I am in my garage measuring the CYA level with good lighting and I’m very close to the tube.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,290
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Reviewing Extended Test Kit Directions Archives - Trouble Free Pool will help you get accurate testing.
CYA tests need to be done in full sunlight, with the sun to your back.
You will most likely need to drain/refill or exchange 50% or so of your water volume, depending on a final accurate CYA test.
CYA tests need to be done in full sunlight, with the sun to your back.
You will most likely need to drain/refill or exchange 50% or so of your water volume, depending on a final accurate CYA test.
Your CYA is very high, probably even higher than 100 so you will need to do a partial drain and refill with new water. FC and CYA are inter-related as in: the higher the CYA, the more FC you need.
Your pool is getting ready for a full algae bloom. Draining will bring the CYA level down so you can properly SLAM the water and kill the algae.
Your pool is getting ready for a full algae bloom. Draining will bring the CYA level down so you can properly SLAM the water and kill the algae.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
Before doing more, would you please add your pool information, equipment, test kit, in your signature? It will help others looking at your thread what you have and how best to give you advice.
Thanks.
Don't drain it fully.
Thanks.
What mknauss said. A water exchange.
Don't drain it fully.
My CYA is still between 60-70 after shocking my pool. How are the best ways to lower it, or is that number good enough
Your going to need the 60-60 CYA level as soon as the heat kicks in. Leave it and just use LC as per the CYA /CHLORINE CHART
- May 3, 2014
- 59,290
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
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