I’m sorry if I’m confusing everyone. It’s because I’m confused!! Lol. The difference I see is if it has salt, the CYA levels need to be higher than without salt. Currently I’ve had my CYA at 50-60 and SLAMing accordingly. BUT if it DOES have salt it is not recommended to SLAM below 70 CYA. So because the water isn’t clearing up, I’m wondering if I needed to add more stabilizer (up to 70) per the SWG chart??
- - - Updated - - -
I am using the TF-100 test kit for CYA, FC etc. but only have strips for salt. Our water level dropped over the winter from evaporation. In West Texas where I live we had no rain or snow over the winter. And unfortunately I did not close it properly!!!
No. The “not recommended” that you see on the Chlorine/CYA chart is for normal operation, not SLAM. It is for when SWG is actually being used. Remember my post where I said that until your SWG is turned on, you have a non-saltwater pool?
We are talking two different subjects here. When you SLAM, you raise your FC repeatedly to the SLAM target for your current CYA. Whatever it is. Notice on the chart that the SLAM target is exactly the same for a CYA OF 70, no matter which one you are looking at.
AFTER SLAM, if you plan to use your SWG, you will raise your CYA to one of the recommended values. Since SWGs add chlorine slowly and steadily, the higher CYA protects the small increments better.
If you had so much salt in your pool that all you need is some tequila, but never turned on your SWG, you would have a non-salt pool.
Also, highly recommend the Taylor K-1766 for salt testing.
So, start your SLAM targeting the SLAM FC for whatever your current CYA is. Test FC frequently, raising it to SLAM level if it drops. Brush and vacuum frequently, and if there is debris in the pool, get it out as best you can.
When your water is clear, you will do the overnight chlorine loss test. If you pass it, and your CC is .5 or less, THEN you will raise your CYA to 70 or so, make sure you have enough salt in pool, and turn on SWG.