Congratulations on passing the oclt! DE will definitely help at this point.
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Vaalpens - I am also in Phoenix (West side). There are several pool stores here that carry HAASA chlorine, which is much stronger than Walmart bleach. It comes as a gallon (128 oz) and is 12.5% strength. It comes 4 gallons to a plastic tote. You pay a small deposit on your first purchase of each tote, but then exchange the tote and all empty gallon jugs the next time, without the deposit charge. The chlorine is much stronger, the tote protects the car during transport, and I like that I am recycling the jugs. You can google HAASA to see where it is sold near you.
Can you see the screws on the bottom of the main drain or tell if a quarter in the deep end is heads or tails? Any cloudiness remaining?
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I check FC/pH every 1-2 days. I run the whole test every 1-2 weeks. TA, CH, CYA don't change that much without water exchange or obviously you intentionally changing them.
Most people in your neck of the woods keep their CYA around 50. Unless you have a very shaded pool, I wouldn't lower CYA too much.
Just for your info, but I do not think it matters that much and as you go along you will fine tune your pool more, but, for the record, CYA Test is not linear, that is why there is more space between the numbered increments as you go up the tube. So if you divide the space between 50 and 60 into even tenths and read 53 it is more than 53 but if you take 55 you are close but technically you are supposed to go to 60 if you pass 50. Also, it seems myself and several other seem to go up 1 or 2 ppm from suggested targets as at the target we seem to get algae bloom every once in a while. I am on a heavily wooded lot that backs up to woods and have lots bugs and frogs that want there pond back. I get the algae at target level when I use solar cover. But once you see the sparkle, when it leaves you know something is up and you catch it before it gets out of hand and never miss a swim. Also another test I use is wear googles and see if I have good visibility underwater from one end of pool to the other. My pool is 40' long and is a little quicker indicator than looking into deep end to see screws for me.
I was asking about the water clarity because one of the criteria to finishing a slam is clear water meaning no more cloudiness. The de should help you get the water polished looking.
The rise of ph from aerating depends on your ta. The higher your ta the faster ph will rise. Your ph could be pretty high. You might want to stop aerating until you can safely test it. Each pool is different but keeping a lot of test results and Chemical additions should help you understand your pool.
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It is hard with your finish cover and no apparent main drain to tell how clear it is. How about a pic with a brush in it or something.
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I wonder because in your pic I can't see the kreepy crawly hose in places.
I'm a little surprised at the amount of Fc loss you had today. I too would like to see some pics that show the water clarity. How about a pic of the creepy crawly when it is in the deep end?
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