Zero pressure after opening

[Farnsworth]

Hi all. We bought our place with our pool last summer and replaced a lot. This is our first spring open. We had the pool builder come out to open it, which they did. However they said our pressure gage was broken as it was reading zero pressure. I just replaced it with a new Jandy gage and it still reads zero.

It probably says this in my profile but we have a jandy cartridge system. Cartridges are new as of last year. The clear top on the pump doesn’t show air bubbles and water is flowing. The baskets are clean. As far I can tell there are no leaks.

The only other new thing is I recently replaced the salt cell. It doesn’t appear to be leaking and shows it has water but the controller says there’s low water flow. I thought it may be a bad flow switch but could it be related to my pressure issue?

Thank you in advance for any advice.

 

[Texas Splash]

Could you post some pics of the equipment pad please> A couple angles so we can see everything to include valves, etc.

 

[HermanTX]

What is the range of your pressure gauge - from 0-30 or 0-60?
What is the rpm of the variable speed pump when the pressure of the gauge is 0?

You have a cartridge filter (how large is it - 420 sq ft? Smaller? Larger? It is feasible that a larger filter and a VS pump on low speed would not register any pressure on the gauge.

The SWCG must have a minimum flow so at what speed is the VS pump when this occurs?

 

[Newdude]

I thought it may be a bad flow switch but could it be related to my pressure issue?

How is the flow out of the returns ? Is it flowing ?

I bought a new gauge when mine had problems and it was the valve that was clogged, not the gauge.

 

[Farnsworth]

Some photos.

Could you post some pics of the equipment pad please> A couple angles so we can see everything to include valves, etc.

 

[Farnsworth]

I

How is the flow out of the returns ? Is it flowing ?

I bought a new gauge when mine had problems and it was the valve that was clogged, not the gauge.

I can see ripples in the shallow end from where the water is returning. They were supposedly blown out for winter during closing. I can feel water flowing from the two deep end returns as well

 

[Texas Splash]

Thanks for the pics. Very clean pad. So to the best of your knowledge, water is flowing through the system very well correct? Pump pot remains full of water and water out of the return jets seems strong yes? If so, then I would be suspicious that perhaps something found its way up & under that psi gauge perhaps plugging it from underneath. Since this pool is new, do you expect the builder to return, or do you open the filter yet to clean it yourself? You might give them a call and let them know you changed the gauge with no change and suspect something might be clogging the pressure gauge port from inside.

 

[Farnsworth]

What is the range of your pressure gauge - from 0-30 or 0-60?
What is the rpm of the variable speed pump when the pressure of the gauge is 0?

You have a cartridge filter (how large is it - 420 sq ft? Smaller? Larger? It is feasible that a larger filter and a VS pump on low speed would not register any pressure on the gauge.

The SWCG must have a minimum flow so at what speed is the VS pump when this occurs?

I’m not sure of the size of the filters. They’re about a yard tall. The pump my be variable speed but it’s being run in service mode because the Wi-Fi unit is too old to connect to current router tech. I’m working on replacing it but the pool company is fighting me for some reason. Because of this it should be running at full power.

I uploaded some photos so that may answer some questions.

 

[Farnsworth]

Thanks for the pics. Very clean pad. So to the best of your knowledge, water is flowing through the system very well correct? Pump pot remains full of water and water out of the return jets seems strong yes? If so, then I would be suspicious that perhaps something found its way up & under that psi gauge perhaps plugging it from underneath. Since this pool is new, do you expect the builder to return, or do you open the filter yet to clean it yourself? You might give them a call and let them know you changed the gauge with no change and suspect something might be clogging the pressure gauge port from inside.

Maybe I wasn’t clear. The pool is new to me. We bought the house in July. The pool was installed in 2012. The builders service arm does our opens and closes.

 

[HermanTX]

You have all of your return pipes full open so there is no resistance to your flow. I would expect your filter pressure to be low. Also, you have a 0-60 psi gauge - that would be less noticeable to see a pressure change. Purchase a 0-30 psi gauge.

 

[Texas Splash]

but it’s being run in service mode

That's a good point. Not sure what rpm that is for you, but if it's a low rpm the gauge won't show much movement at all. If you have a way to override the programming and ensure the pump is running at a full rpm of 3,450 for a minute or so you'll quickly ensure the gauge is responding.

 

[HermanTX]

I’m not sure of the size of the filters. They’re about a yard tall. The pump my be variable speed but it’s being run in service mode because the Wi-Fi unit is too old to connect to current router tech. I’m working on replacing it but the pool company is fighting me for some reason. Because of this it should be running at full power.

I uploaded some photos so that may answer some questions.

Thanks for the photos. Look for a model number on your filter. It is good to know that for future needs.
If you are in service mode, does the screen on the pump (not sure if the Jandy pump has a screen) show a RPM? I know the Jandy pumps are different from others with regard to what can be programmed. Show us a picture of the pump display screen if you can open the cover. Can you find a model number of the pump?

 

[Texas Splash]

FYI - Think of Service Mode as it ensures the pumps and valves can only be controlled at the main control panel by the pool. That way, if someone is cleaning the filter, a different person in the house can't turn the pump on while I'm working on it. Or, if I am vacuuming the pool, someone can't switch it into spa mode. But you should be able to confirm teh rpms for the main pump. As Herman stated, if it's on a low rpm with a pressure gauge that has large reading increments, the needle will barely move if at all. Make sense?

 

[HermanTX]

it’s being run in service mode because the Wi-Fi unit is too old to connect to current router tech. I’m working on replacing it but the pool company is fighting me for some reason.

How can we help. Show a picture of the wireless antenna. I can see it is on the back side of the automation box. That is an easy fix and we can help. Also take a picture of your automation box with the cover open.

 

[Farnsworth]

That's a good point. Not sure what rpm that is for you, but if it's a low rpm the gauge won't show much movement at all. If you have a way to override the programming and ensure the pump is running at a full rpm of 3,450 for a minute or so you'll quickly ensure the gauge is responding.

I’m not sure without replacing the Wi-Fi unit. Per the builder service mode should run the pump at full, but I can’t verify that. We ran it last summer in service mode

Thanks for the photos. Look for a model number on your filter. It is good to know that for future needs.
If you are in service mode, does the screen on the pump (not sure if the Jandy pump has a screen) show a RPM? I know the Jandy pumps are different from others with regard to what can be programmed. Show us a picture of the pump display screen if you can open the cover. Can you find a model number of the pump?

theres no screen. This RS system works with a controller or an app through Wi-Fi. But without replacing the Wi-Fi unit (iAqualink) I’m in the dark. The original owners who installed the pool did not get the controller.

I think the pump model is JEP2.0 Jandy Pro series by Zodiac

 

[Farnsworth]

How can we help. Show a picture of the wireless antenna. I can see it is on the back side of the automation box. That is an easy fix and we can help. Also take a picture of your automation box with the cover open.

I’ve confirmed with Linksys and Flurida (iAqualink manufacturer) that the hardware is incompatible. The 2.0 doesn’t work with WPA2 security. Once I get the part I’ll be back if I get stuck.

 

[Farnsworth]

FYI - Think of Service Mode as it ensures the pumps and valves can only be controlled at the main control panel by the pool. That way, if someone is cleaning the filter, a different person in the house can't turn the pump on while I'm working on it. Or, if I am vacuuming the pool, someone can't switch it into spa mode. But you should be able to confirm teh rpms for the main pump. As Herman stated, if it's on a low rpm with a pressure gauge that has large reading increments, the needle will barely move if at all. Make sense?

That's interesting. I didn't know that.

As for the gauge (gage? I never know which) it read some pressure last year. I'm going to try pulling the filters and cleaning them and the housing this afternoon per someone's suggestion. And I think this entire conversation reemphasizes my need to upgrade the iaqualink. I appreciate all the advice and I'll check back in when I have more of the necessary info.

 

[HermanTX]

I’ve confirmed with Linksys and Flurida (iAqualink manufacturer) that the hardware is incompatible. The 2.0 doesn’t work with WPA2 security. Once I get the part I’ll be back if I get stuck.

do you have a PDA (the sticker on the panel indicates that) or did you convert to the RS system with wifi to the internet.

You have a couple of options. If you wish to discard the PDA and go with full wireless to either your phone app or to a computer, then you will need the full upgrade. That is a iQ30-RS. This includes the most updated PCB with firmware T.2. It also includes the 3.0 Antenna which is compatible with a mesh wifi system. I have eero and it works well.

Another idea is to run a Cat5 cable from your router directly to the antenna. Therefore it is a hardwire connection. Another option but same hookup is to pull the 4 wire antenna wire into your house and make the Cat5 connection inside. I remember that my antenna came with about 15 ft of wire so that gives you some room to pull the antenna connection inside.

 

[Farnsworth]

do you have a PDA (the sticker on the panel indicates that) or did you convert to the RS system with wifi to the internet.

You have a couple of options. If you wish to discard the PDA and go with full wireless to either your phone app or to a computer, then you will need the full upgrade. That is a iQ30-RS. This includes the most updated PCB with firmware T.2. It also includes the 3.0 Antenna which is compatible with a mesh wifi system. I have eero and it works well.

Another idea is to run a Cat5 cable from your router directly to the antenna. Therefore it is a hardwire connection. Another option but same hookup is to pull the 4 wire antenna wire into your house and make the Cat5 connection inside. I remember that my antenna came with about 15 ft of wire so that gives you some room to pull the antenna connection inside.

From what I was told the system was always RS, never had a PDA, was always fully app operated. Current antenna is IQ20 iAqualink 2.0.

 

[HermanTX]

From what I was told the system was always RS, never had a PDA, was always fully app operated. Current antenna is IQ20 iAqualink 2.0.

So you could hardwire to existing antenna or purchase the iQ30-Ant which is the antenna only that works with mesh systems