Where to mount aquapure?

[poolman112]

Hi all, my pool automation was set up for SWG by the previous owner so the aqualink has the chlorine generator, board, interface, and wiring all there. At some point prior to my ownership, they remove the salt cell and put a tablet feeder in its place.

However, now I want to reintroduce the salt cell. Looking for the best place to mount it. Here is my setup.

Am I right in thinking it should be as simple as plumb the salt cell in, connect the power to the existing pigtails in the aqualink box and plug the tri sensor harness into the board thats right next to the chlorine generator transformer ?

 

[laszlof]

The SWG should go right before your return. You'd effectively be replacing the tablet feeder. The PLC700/1400 cell have a few configuration options. In your situation, I would probably mount it vertically, and use the side inlet to act as a 90 going into the ground, with the tri-sensor located at the top. See flow diagram below from the manual, option "C" is what I'd suggest.

Which Aqualink box do you have? Is it one of the PureLink boxes with the APUREM transformer built in? Can you take a picture of the panel?

 

[generessler]

I'm just an AquaPure owner, so trust the experts over me. So yes. But two things. 1) Don't be surprised if the electronics are broken. Seems likely they stopped working and the tab dispenser was proposed as a cheap alternative to fixing it. Jandy stuff is pretty expensive even for diy. 2) Could you post pictures of the whole pad? That diverter valve looks a bit weird. As in when the heater (is that a heater?) is in circuit, you don't get any chlorine. You can't plumb a SWG like that. It needs flow all the time the pump is on.

 

[laszlof]

I'm just an AquaPure owner, so trust the experts over me. So yes. But two things. 1) Don't be surprised if the electronics are broken. Seems likely they stopped working and the tab dispenser was proposed as a cheap alternative to fix. Jandy stuff is pretty expensive even for diy. 2) Could you post pictures of the whole pad. That diverter valve looks a bit weird. As in when the heater (is that a heater?) is in circuit, you don't get any chlorine. You can't plumb a SWG like that. It needs flow all the time the pump is on.

Good point on Number 1.

That diverter valve looks like it control flow to a pool, and to a spa. It doesnt bypass the heater. I believe the other pipe coming from the left is a heater bypass. The only time that tab feeder would get bypassed is if they went full Spa mode. Agreed its not ideal to plumb that way, but it depends on how they use the system.

A full pad picture would clear things up a bit I think

 

[generessler]

Good point on Number 1.

That diverter valve looks like it control flow to a pool, and to a spa. It doesnt bypass the heater. I believe the other pipe coming from the left is a heater bypass. The only time that tab feeder would get bypassed is if they went full Spa mode. Agreed its not ideal to plumb that way, but it depends on how they use the system.

A full pad picture would clear things up a bit I think

The app for AquaPure control has separate settings for pool and spa modes. Spas tend to lose chlorine quickly when populated due to the high bather to water ratio. So it makes sense to have some chlorine added during use. The SWG has to be plumbed in the return before the pool/spa diverter for this to work.

 

[poolman112]

The app for AquaPure control has separate settings for pool and spa modes. Spas tend to lose chlorine quickly when populated due to the high bather to water ratio. So it makes sense to have some chlorine added during use. The SWG has to be plumbed in the return before the pool/spa diverter for this to work.

It seems like I would have to remove that check valve and mount the cell there to get this to work. Would be more compliated than putting it on the pool return and replacing the tablet feeder. How important is it to have the SWG running while using the spa? Typically we are using it for a few hours only and then it gets renewed via pool water with the spillover function.

 

[laszlof]

It seems like I would have to remove that check valve and mount the cell there to get this to work. Would be more compliated than putting it on the pool return and replacing the tablet feeder. How important is it to have the SWG running while using the spa? Typically we are using it for a few hours only and then it gets renewed via pool water with the spillover function.

Ideally, you should have the SWG between the check valve and the valve that separates your pool and spa. Yes, its a lot of cutting, but its really not too. Grab yourself some schedule 40 PVC, primer+glue, a couple 90s, a new t-fitting, and probably a socket saver bit if you want to reuse that check valve and 3 way. The layout you have isn't really ideal, theres a lot more turns in there than there needs to be.

Can you send pictures of the rest of the equipment pad?

 

[poolman112]

Gotcha. Updated original post with the larger pad image and also showing the current electronics. Let me know if any more photos are needed.

 

[poolman112]

The SWG should go right before your return. You'd effectively be replacing the tablet feeder. The PLC700/1400 cell have a few configuration options. In your situation, I would probably mount it vertically, and use the side inlet to act as a 90 going into the ground, with the tri-sensor located at the top. See flow diagram below from the manual, option "C" is what I'd suggest.View attachment 535432

Which Aqualink box do you have? Is it one of the PureLink boxes with the APUREM transformer built in? Can you take a picture of the panel?

I updated the original post with a photo of the electronics and box.

 

[laszlof]

I updated the original post with a photo of the electronics and box.

Yeah, because you have a heater bypass valve, I would probably cut everything out after and redo it.

You'll want to place the salt cell right before the valve that goes to your pool or spa returns, but After the t-fitting that comes from your heater and heater bypass valve.

It's a bit of work, but not too difficult. If you're not comfortable you could always call a pool company or plumber and ask them to do it.

 

[poolman112]

Yeah, because you have a heater bypass valve, I would probably cut everything out after and redo it.

You'll want to place the salt cell right before the valve that goes to your pool or spa returns, but After the t-fitting that comes from your heater and heater bypass valve.

It's a bit of work, but not too difficult. If you're not comfortable you could always call a pool company or plumber and ask them to do it.

I think I can handle the PVC work its just a matter of conceptualizing a layout that fits. The 13.25" will be tough to fit in the run between the bypass valve and the JVA valve with a T there too. I really dont see how I can pull the 90 Degree spa return elbow off its check valve without digging up a bunch of dirt and cutting it all out at that point.

How would you lay it out for the most efficient , knowing the chlorinator is obsolete?

 

[generessler]

I can't really imagine the whole pad without a bigger picture but will pass on my experience. When I moved in, the SWG was plumbed ahead of the heater. Yeah really. And my equipment pad is tight like yours. To replumb the only option was to use more vertical space. Think "two layers." Kind of like your loop-de-loop for the current tab dispenser, but more and bigger and better thought-out. Took hours of sketching, but ended well, much better than the original. I'm sure you'll get there.

 

[HermanTX]

However, now I want to reintroduce the salt cell. Looking for the best place to mount it. Here is my setup.

Am I right in thinking it should be as simple as plumb the salt cell in, connect the power to the existing pigtails in the aqualink box and plug the tri sensor harness into the board thats right next to the chlorine generator transformer ?

See my photo how I had to make a loop as well because the spa return and pool return were very close together. Also note, I only have my SWCG on the pool return side. Now I am fortunate (maybe) because a branch off of my pool return actually goes to the spa - so there is chlorinated water always going to the pool and spa.

I also added a flow meter which is that black object on the lower horizontal pipe.

The SWCG board needs power from the transformer. Ensure that is giving out power.
Then the sensor wires also connect to the same SWCG board.
Finally, you also have to run a RS485 (4 wire 22 ga) cable from the SWCG board to the RED connector. That may already be hooked up but need to verify.
The manual shows all of these connections so ensure you have that to look at.