Waxahachie, TX Owner Build - A race to beat the baby!

Haha! I've been taking notes on all of your photo requests, and I can pretty well guess my kids will be happy to oblige you when the time comes!

I don't want things to stall altogether around here, but it has been nice getting a little breather from the activity of the previous week and a half. The tile/coping/plaster guy must have come by to measure while we were at church (I had been told either today or tomorrow), because all of the rebar with tennis balls attached was bent towards the ground outside the pool. He probably had to move it to measure. Hopefully that means I'll be getting the exact quotes on all of those things soon and we can get started.

My wonderful husband has been "bonding" with the pool by taking over the watering. We bought an oscillating sprinkler, and he just has to move it once to cover the whole pool for each watering cycle. We are getting a pretty big puddle in the deep end, but as I recall from other builds, that is normal, and will be taken care of by the plaster guys.

Oh ok, that makes sense. Sorry about my impatients but I'm living your build with you! But without the hard work. Lol

No problem! I know how much fun it is to watch other people's builds, and the anticipation that builds between each phase. It is fun for me to be able to contribute to this site in the same way.

When you get the yard graded, get out two ground stakes (you can use wood or rebar), some nylon line, a line level gauge and a tape measure. Then make sure your decking slopes gently AWAY from the pool. 1/8" to 1/4" drop per foot is considered a gentle enough slope that still "feels" level with no more than 1/2" per foot or else you'll feel it.

The last thing you want is rain water washing your deck and filling your pool dirt, silt and debris.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006

Thanks, Matt. This is very important to us, and we paid attention to the elevation of our pool so as to allow for the drainage from the yard to flow around it once it is in. Getting the decking right will be the first step, and then the rest of the yard around the pool will come next.
 
Glad to hear your build is going well Jamie...you're getting some great advice. I've learned a lot from your build.

It was very nice of you to say that, Max. Thank you! I'm glad others are learning from my build too. I can't believe the combined wealth of knowledge from the generous posters on this site.
 
Advice needed on placement of EasyTouch panel:

I need to decide where to have the electricians set the EasyTouch 8 panel in relation to my pad on Thursday. The pad is set a foot forward of where the fence will run behind it. The panel will be mounted on some sort of u-channel frame that the electrician will provide. I've included some pictures of my pad from different angles (forms still not removed!) so hopefully people will be able to give me their thoughts. Also, how high should I have them raise the panel off the ground? Thanks for the help!





 
Advice needed on placement of EasyTouch panel:

I need to decide where to have the electricians set the EasyTouch 8 panel in relation to my pad on Thursday. The pad is set a foot forward of where the fence will run behind it. The panel will be mounted on some sort of u-channel frame that the electrician will provide. I've included some pictures of my pad from different angles (forms still not removed!) so hopefully people will be able to give me their thoughts. Also, how high should I have them raise the panel off the ground? Thanks for the help!






what is going on with that 90deg sweep / bend piece of conduit hovering above the pump?

you got a poltergeist?
 
what is going on with that 90deg sweep / bend piece of conduit hovering above the pump?

you got a poltergeist?

LOL! I noticed that looked like it was hovering... The spigot is brass and blends in with the dirt, so all you can see is the white hose attachment. Since we've been having overnight freezes I've been draining and refilling the system, and that's what I use to attach the hose.
 
Ha! I thought the same thing!

Jaime, I remeber discussing it before, but why not wait for the fence to be installed first? There is really no pressing issue to get the electrical istalled right now and I recall the fence is where you wanted it mounted anyway right?

30-36" from the ground to the bottom of the panel is typical.
 
Ha! I thought the same thing!

Jaime, I remeber discussing it before, but why not wait for the fence to be installed first? There is really no pressing issue to get the electrical istalled right now and I recall the fence is where you wanted it mounted anyway right?

30-36" from the ground to the bottom of the panel is typical.

We were planning on ordering the fence online and then having a local guy install it, so both of those things add scheduling complications. I thought it would be easiest to do the fence after concrete for ease of access for the concrete guys and since the amount of concrete is still up in the air (because of budget considerations...to splurge or not!) Since I was going to wait until after the concrete was in for the fence, I need to have the electrical finished even before that. I had kind of resigned myself to not mounting on the fence since waiting meant I'd delay all of these other things and I figured I could place the panel (using the electrician's frame) where I wanted it anyway. I just need to get insight on where that would best be, based on accessing the plumbing at the pad. I assume I'd want the panel parallel to the fence line, to the right of the pump? Or would there be a better spot somewhere else?

- - - Updated - - -

Congratulations, this will be really nice!

Thanks, Patrick! We are excited to see it coming along so well. The answer to prayers!
 

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Can you make a quick sketch of where you plan to put the fence in relation to the equipment pad?

Hand drawn on a napkin is fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Can you make a quick sketch of where you plan to put the fence in relation to the equipment pad?

Hand drawn on a napkin is fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006

Here is a photo of our basic drainage plan which shows the basic idea of the fence perimeter. I reoriented the pad by drawing it in red. The fence to the right of it will run parallel, behind it. As I mentioned, the pad is about 1 foot away from the fence line. (Just FYI, the decking as shown, is way more than we plan. We need to bring it in tighter around the back and have it bump out around the slide and diving board.)
 
My vote would be on side of the pad with the pump. When you drain/open the filter and need to clean it out, water will splash around a bit. Best not to have electronics near that.

I would face it so it opens towards the pool and set it back to be as close to the fence line as possible.

Just my $0.02 opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
My vote would be on side of the pad with the pump. When you drain/open the filter and need to clean it out, water will splash around a bit. Best not to have electronics near that.

I would face it so it opens towards the pool and set it back to be as close to the fence line as possible.

Just my $0.02 opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006

Thanks, Matt. I was thinking something along those lines. (And by the way, your $.02 is worth a lot more than that in my book! :) )
 
Your pad is basically the same setup as mine as far as filter/pump is placed and my box is basically where Matt recommended. The only difference is mine is mounted on the house.

Panel_zpsvtkgenzm.jpg
 
Is mastic something I can do myself to save the $400, or do I really need it done by a professional. Aside from having a big belly in the way when it would need to be done, I'm pretty handy, but of course I'd hate to mess it up. And just to be sure, this goes in between the coping and decking after the concrete decking is poured, right?

(By the way, my husband votes for just paying for it, but I'm still trying to be economical!)
 
Its easy enough to do yourself, but not so easily removed if there is a mistake. Depending on the product, its also quite expensive so the price you mentioned isn't really all that bad.

If you do end up doing it, the Sikaflex brand is a lot easier to use since its premixed and can be applied with a caulking gun. Deck-o-Seal is another option but is much more temperamental, requires A LOT of mixing and is a applied with a squeeze bottle that will make you grow gorilla forearms. Those hands are better served strangling all those kids.
 
Its easy enough to do yourself, but not so easily removed if there is a mistake. Depending on the product, its also quite expensive so the price you mentioned isn't really all that bad.

If you do end up doing it, the Sikaflex brand is a lot easier to use since its premixed and can be applied with a caulking gun. Deck-o-Seal is another option but is much more temperamental, requires A LOT of mixing and is a applied with a squeeze bottle that will make you grow gorilla forearms. Those hands are better served strangling all those kids.

Ahhh... Ok. So it sounds like the $400 may be money well spent! I don't need anything extra to worry about if the cost savings benefit compared to the effort isn't that big after all. Thanks for the insight, Brian.
 
Concrete decking prep question:

I've read that proper preparation of the base is one of the keys to minimizing the cracking of concrete. I know it will crack, but there's no need for it to be more than typical if I can prepare properly.

Since we elevated the pool slightly to deal with drainage, something will need to fill up the empty space below the concrete. The concrete guy says they use 4" of cushion sand directly under the concrete, but what should I have them use below that? More sand? Road base and then the sand? No sand at all and only road base? Something else? The dirt that is there now is blackish clay. Then, once we choose something, do we need to compact it in layers before they pour the concrete? If they dismiss proper compaction, that's just being lazy, right?

Some pics to show how much needs to be filled. These spots are the worst:


 

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