Very fine tan colored something

Jharris032

Member
Feb 4, 2024
19
West Palm Beach
I just purchased a new home with a pool which is around 20 years old. When I moved in the pool guys came around that were doing the pool work and indicated to me that the pump and the filter needed to be replaced on the pool, not so much the pump but the filter system was shot. They told me about this fine dust like substance that was floating around the pool so I check it and have a closer look and sure enough they were right. The filter was an old Hayward 75sq ft filter system that is also tan and the exterior for sure and possibly the interior was deteriorating. I replace it with a new 200sq ft system and a 3hp variable pump. They new system has been running for 24 hours now and I still see fine dust In the pool, albeit much less but it’s still there. Does anyone have idea as the what it is and what I can do to get rid of it? The new pump turns the water every 4 hours and I’ve had it running for the full 24 hours since installation. I attached a photo but you can’t really tell what’s going on in it I don’t think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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What kinda crud is blowing in the pool from your surroundings ? I imagine your spring is starting real soon if it hasn't already.

Filtering out whatever was already in the pool will take considerable time, and then anything new blowing in will make it even longer. I believe that low RPMs does better slow and steady like where higher RPMs stirs it up more taking longer to filter it all.

Particles big enough to see tend to stay suspended IMO. I've watched in my own pool with a snorkel mask many times with them not budging even with lots of water movement and me disturbing the water around them by swimming. In the days it takes for them all to find the filter, one breezy day added a bunch more making it seem like they're the same floaties. In the spring and fall it's literally a never ending battle.
 
I just purchased a new home with a pool which is around 20 years old. When I moved in the pool guys came around that were doing the pool work and indicated to me that the pump and the filter needed to be replaced on the pool, not so much the pump but the filter system was shot. They told me about this fine dust like substance that was floating around the pool so I check it and have a closer look and sure enough they were right. The filter was an old Hayward 75sq ft filter system that is also tan and the exterior for sure and possibly the interior was deteriorating. I replace it with a new 200sq ft system and a 3hp variable pump. They new system has been running for 24 hours now and I still see fine dust In the pool, albeit much less but it’s still there. Does anyone have idea as the what it is and what I can do to get rid of it? The new pump turns the water every 4 hours and I’ve had it running for the full 24 hours since installation. I attached a photo but you can’t really tell what’s going on in it I don’t think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Those are called "fines." They will never be completely removed from pool water as no pool filter can ever filter that small and the world is constantly dumping dust into your pool 24/7. They are seen in every pool when the light is on. During the day you look into a room and see nothing in the air. In a completely dark room, shine a flashlight. The dust will amaze you. The directional light makes each particle act like a reflector.
 
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Those are called "fines." They will never be completely removed from pool water as no pool filter can ever filter that small and the world is constantly dumping dust into your pool 24/7. They are seen in every pool when the light is on. During the day you look into a room and see nothing in the air. In a completely dark room, shine a flashlight. The dust will amaze you. The directional light makes each particle act like a reflector.
That actually makes a lot of sense.
 
You mean like "turn over..." well no such thing. Let the pump work. What pump and filter did you get? pump speed? Water chemistry? How are you Testing?
I mean the pump turns the entire volume of water in my pool in 4 hours turned up on high, pump speed max is 3450rpms down to 1000 I think and runs at 30psi at highest level on the filter gauge. The filter is a pro clean 200 and the pump is a Blue Torrent 3hp variable pump. I have pool strips that I test with and a manual test kit as well for Alk, ph, and calcium just in case and everything is normal. *Side note* I also have a 150gallon reef tank I’ve had 4 years strong so I know water chemistry pretty well. IMG_3533 Copy.jpeg
 
I know water chemistry pretty well.
Pools are their own animal. Test strips are far too vague to help, even *if* they were the least bit accurate.

CYA needs an exact value to the nearest 10 in order to set the appropriate FC level. The 0, 30, 50, 100, 200 (or whatever yours go by) on the strips tells you nothing, again, *if* it was even accurate.

swcg_chart.jpg

Have a read : FC/CYA Levels


And also : Pool Care Basics

You need a Test Kits Compared or you're playing blind darts.
 
I mean the pump turns the entire volume of water in my pool in 4 hours turned up on high, pump speed max is 3450rpms down to 1000 I think and runs at 30psi at highest level on the filter gauge. The filter is a pro clean 200 and the pump is a Blue Torrent 3hp variable pump. I have pool strips that I test with and a manual test kit as well for Alk, ph, and calcium just in case and everything is normal. *Side note* I also have a 150gallon reef tank I’ve had 4 years strong so I know water chemistry pretty well. View attachment 553429
Just a tip if I may: when you run the rpm low and slow with say 100 rpm more then what the SWCG is satisfied with, it's recommended to mount the salt cell with the hump on the bottom so the plates are always submerged in the water.
 
Pools are their own animal. Test strips are far too vague to help, even *if* they were the least bit accurate.

CYA needs an exact value to the nearest 10 in order to set the appropriate FC level. The 0, 30, 50, 100, 200 (or whatever yours go by) on the strips tells you nothing, again, *if* it was even accurate.

View attachment 553443

Have a read : FC/CYA Levels


And also : Pool Care Basics

You need a Test Kits Compared or you're playing blind darts.
good info!
Good info ! Thank you.
 
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Just a tip if I may: when you run the rpm low and slow with say 100 rpm more then what the SWCG is satisfied with, it's recommended to mount the salt cell with the hump on the bottom so the plates are always submerged in the water.
The salt cell isn’t even hooked up, thats my next thing. The 10pin plug is corroded and I’m thinking it doesn’t work because the main box with the control board isn’t installed anymore and no where to be found. Essentially, I have a T15 inline doing nothing
 
Essentially, I have a T15 inline doing nothing
Many abandon it when it dies. If they weren't shown how to properly use it, including full proper water chemistry, then they probably still went green alot so it wasn't worth it to them to buy a new one.
 
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