Thank you for your reply. I'm a real neophyte at this, that's a heat pump, not a heater does that matter?Hey, welcome to TFP!!
From the manual for the ichlor:
1) you want 12-18 inches of straight pipe in front of cell
2) 3' away from heater
3) use the spacer cell while the pool system is flushed.
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The ball valves that they have installed will, at some point, become unusable. Those valves become hard to turn, until they don't turn. Likely better to put in never lube valves. They can be rebuilt easily.
The heater bypass can be done with one neverlube and a check valve. The way they have done it, while functional, requires thinking about all the valve positions...with potential for error.
The heat pump heats the water. It is a water heater. A water heater is a heater. Heaters can be propane, natural gas, heat pump, solar...they are all heaters.Thank you for your reply. I'm a real neophyte at this, that's a heat pump, not a heater does that matter?
Yes, and yes. There should be 12-18" of straight pipe before the cell. When they start up the pool the spacer should be in place until you are certain particulates are out of the water. By putting the spacer in place (removing the cell), then the cell doesn't get clogged with a bunch of builder remainder bits. Your filter will catch them. The spacer looks like this:I'm sure your observations are correct, let me make sure I understand.
First, they didn't install the iclore with enough pipe in front, correct? Based on the picture, how much more do I need? Second, they didn't install the iclore spacer cell, correct?
First, I added my pool to my signature, that's a great idea thanks! I'm not sure where the signature shows up but if you think I need to improve it please let me know and I will.Hi. Consider adding all your equipment in your signature. That way people here can help more easily.
Your pump looks like a Pentair Superflow. The manual says "However, we also recommend that a valve, elbow or tee installed in the suction line should be no closer to the front of the pump than 5 times the suction line diameter." So if your pipe is 2", another guess, there should be a 10" straight section between the valve and it. Looks like you don't even have 2. That section lets the flow smooth out before the pump chamber, which makes life easier and more efficient for the pump. Even if I guessed wrong on the pump model, most others will be the same.
Under your posts. Turn your phone sideways and it pops up in landscape mode. Ya did good.I'm not sure where the signature shows up
That's a pretty simple setup. What do you want to automate? What do you want from the automation?I want to do automation don't you need an intelliflow for automation?
It is simple... maybe too simple. I wasn't consulted.That's a pretty simple setup. What do you want to automate? What do you want from the automation?
Let's see what @ajw22 @JamesW and @Jimrahbe have to say. They are some of the automation folks...Based on what I've gleaned from Google and YouTube... I want to automate the pump, automate the two bubblers and the lights from my phone (Pentair Home?) Pretty simple. I thought that meant I needed an intelliflow pump and an intelliscenter automation unit. But like I said, I've had no conversations with the equipment guy.
I'd really appreciate your insights. Thank you!
The length of your pump input is fine.Thanks for all the great insights.
Based on your input, I now understand I need at least 10 in of pipe going into the pump so this morning I went outside and put a tape measure on it. I'm so new at this I don't know what counts towards the 10 inches. Thoughts? Thank You!
You've also taught me the iclor has to be 3 feet from the heater. So I'm posting that picture as well. Is this right?
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Thank you so much! I'll read through that automation documentation this weekend.The length of your pump input is fine.
The position of your iChor is ok. Not optimum but ok.
What has not been mentioned is your Heat Pump is right next to your AC condenser. When both units are running their air flow and heat output will interfere with each other and affect their operation. I think if you check the installation document for each you will find minimum separations between units which it does not look like you have.
The major problems I see are your ball valves that should be diverters and your small cartridge filter.
To automate valves they need to be diverter valves that actuators can be placed on, not ball valves.
What model number is your pump? Post a clear pic of the labels on the front of the pump.
There are simpler and lower cost automation systems that automate a VS pump but when you throw in wanting to automate valves for water features you jump to the high end old EasyTouch system or newer IntelliCenter.
Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
First priority to me would be getting rid of all the ball valves on your system.