The "Old" TA - pH Battle

dcsmith

Gold Supporter
Nov 19, 2021
122
Ocala, FL
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
With the addition of 50 ppm of Boric acid two years ago, the battle was lessened. However, this Spring I'm back at it again.
My TA is 50 and my pH is 7.8 - both at the extremes of acceptability according to the TFP "Ideals".
The rest of the chemistry is as follows:
CYA: 62
FC: 6
CH: 270
Salt: 2800
Temp: 77
CSI: -0.66
We had a lot of rain a few weeks ago so I added 2 Qts. Muriatic acid. I didn't take a measurement after that, but the previous measurements (before 1.2" of rain) were:
TA: 64
pH: 7.8
 
With the addition of 50 ppm of Boric acid two years ago, the battle was lessened. However, this Spring I'm back at it again.
My TA is 50 and my pH is 7.8 - both at the extremes of acceptability according to the TFP "Ideals".
The rest of the chemistry is as follows:
CYA: 62
FC: 6
CH: 270
Salt: 2800
Temp: 77
CSI: -0.66
We had a lot of rain a few weeks ago so I added 2 Qts. Muriatic acid. I didn't take a measurement after that, but the previous measurements (before 1.2" of rain) were:
TA: 64
pH: 7.8
Do the tests with the taylor kit and report back. Your TA and CYA look like some other test result.
 
It's important to only use quality Taylor testing and results. TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. pH in the 7s is also perfectly fine.

My TA is 50 and my pH is 7.8
That is likely the pH/TA equilibrium point for your pool. Non-trichlor pools will rarely (likely never) need baking soda. Stop adding MA until your pH drifts above 8, then add a little to get your pH back into the high 7s. If your TA is truly 50, your pH rise will be minimal.

extremes of acceptability
There is a wide range of parameters on purpose. Don't stress about being exactly in the middle of the range.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

You could use a little boost in CH. Manage your CSI. Warmer water temps will help as well.
 
Last edited:
It's important to only use quality Taylor testing and results. TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. pH in the 7s is also perfectly fine.


That is likely the pH/TA equilibrium point for your pool. Non-trichlor pools will rarely (likely never) need baking soda. Stop adding MA until your pH drifts above 8, then add a little to get your pH back into the high 7s.


There is a wide range of parameters on purpose. Don't stress about being exactly in the middle of the range.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

You could use a little boost in CH. Manage your CSI. Warmer water temps will help as well.
Fill water (lately) has been rain - TA & CH not measured.
I am working on boosting CH.
One other note. During the Winter I kept my FC around 11. Within the last month, I have reduced my Chlorine generator to allow FC to drop. Not that FC is in a decent range, I need to increase my CYA (in process).
 
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The question is "Why are you adding acid"?

In my opinion, most people read the pH as higher than it really is and they add acid when it is not necessary.

If the CSI is not over 0.0 and the pH is not over 8.3, there is no reason to add acid.

Reading the pH over 8.0 can be difficult, so you have to have a good way to read the pH up to about 8.3.
 

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With the addition of 50 ppm of Boric acid two years ago, the battle was lessened. However, this Spring I'm back at it again.
My TA is 50 and my pH is 7.8 - both at the extremes of acceptability according to the TFP "Ideals".
The rest of the chemistry is as follows:
CYA: 62
FC: 6
CH: 270
Salt: 2800
Temp: 77
CSI: -0.66
We had a lot of rain a few weeks ago so I added 2 Qts. Muriatic acid. I didn't take a measurement after that, but the previous measurements (before 1.2" of rain) were:
TA: 64
pH: 7.8
What is your testing method? Do you still have borates? Raise your CH and you’ll be in pretty good shape with pH of 7.8. I let my pH rise to 8.0 before adding MA.