TF100 Test Kit - First Result
- Thread starter Styxbb
- Start date
The ammonia in the water will eat it up almost as soon as you add it. It's the only way to get rid of it. ?
Next attempt. Hit it with 2 gallons this morning. 4 more at 11:30 AM. 5:30 test result.
FC 8.5
CC 0
Should I now raise it to SLAM?
FC 8.5
CC 0
Should I now raise it to SLAM?
Took the pool to SLAM last night.
FC 24
CC 0
Reading this morning
FC 10.5
CC .25 Water barely turned pink when I added 5 drops of reagent.
Took it back to SLAM.
My problem, I'm going out of town this afternoon and won't be back until Sunday. Water is not clear, but I can see the bottom of deep end. I will vac, backwash, and SLAM before I leave. Is there anything I can do to "hold" my water until Sunday? I'm going to use some profanity here, so scold me if you need to. I do have some 3 inch CHLORINE STICKS left from last year.
FC 24
CC 0
Reading this morning
FC 10.5
CC .25 Water barely turned pink when I added 5 drops of reagent.
Took it back to SLAM.
My problem, I'm going out of town this afternoon and won't be back until Sunday. Water is not clear, but I can see the bottom of deep end. I will vac, backwash, and SLAM before I leave. Is there anything I can do to "hold" my water until Sunday? I'm going to use some profanity here, so scold me if you need to. I do have some 3 inch CHLORINE STICKS left from last year.
Is there anybody you could have baby sit it ? I don't think the sticks would really do anything but add CYA.
Take it up to SLAM level or the mustard shock level and deal with it when you get back.
Put the cover on it if that's an option ?
Take it up to SLAM level or the mustard shock level and deal with it when you get back.
Put the cover on it if that's an option ?
I am hoping that tonight is the end of my SLAM process. Pool is clean and mostly clear. 95%+ clarity. I am at slam now. If my OCLT is good, do I just leave it and let the FC drop back to normal level throughout the day tomorrow? Been cold the last few days and haven't put solar cover on yet due to chlorine levels. Water temp 59 degrees.
If you pass all three criteria your done and you can just let FC drift down.
1 Water is crystal clear.
2 CC of 0.5 or less.
3 You can pass the OCLT. ?
1 Water is crystal clear.
2 CC of 0.5 or less.
3 You can pass the OCLT. ?
32 gallons of bleach and counting. Last night, got my FC a little high for SLAM - 27(opposed to 24). 0 CC. This morning, FC 24 - CC 0. I tested last night after sunset, but before dusk. This morning, before sunrise, but after daylight. Would this be negligible as far as burnoff(direct UV versus indirect)? With a CC of 0, where am I losing the chlorine?
Water looks great, but cold(59).
Thanks
Water looks great, but cold(59).
Thanks
It's time to start looking behind lights and behind steps for those lingering chlorine eaters.
Just out of curiosity, when you added enough bleach to reach 27 did verify it was actually at 27 by testing or did you assume it would be 27 based on what PoolMath told you to add?
I measured it at 27. The previous 2 nights my OCLT was 3ppm. Last night it was 4.5. Expecting Thunderstorms, so I don't know what I'll get done on it today. Last year, I had to replace the head on my filter. Since then, the clean pressure has been at 16. Is there a way to test this? What are the thoughts on a sand change? It's been 3 years.
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The question about the pressure comes from the thought of adding some DE.
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The question about the pressure comes from the thought of adding some DE.
Sand never requires changing but it needs to be cleaned. Depending on many factors, at least every two years and annually doesn't hurt a thing.
I don't understand what the "head" of your filter is?
I don't understand what the "head" of your filter is?
There can still be SOME organics in the water.
You are ALMOST finished so don't give up until you get these SLAM "enders" satisfied...
1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm. (looks like this is the only one remaining....you're close.
Your experience is not unique: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74758-Help!!-SLAMing-for-9-days-and-the-CCs-are-going-UP!
Something else to consider: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74362-Slamming-for-3-weeks-and-bad-DPD-powder
Something else to consider: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74362-Slamming-for-3-weeks-and-bad-DPD-powder
@duraleigh - I guess I used the wrong term for "head"(multiport valve). The original one cracked. The old one ran between 8-10 psi, this one 16-18. What would explain this jump? So, in my mind, the pressure gauge is off or the pressure is awfully high. I cleaned the sand after changing the valve but it didn't lower the pressure. I can try it again.
@richard - From this forum, I believe the term is POP. I have it, my kids don't. lol. As far as bad DPD, I just ordered the kit 2 weeks ago. So, I would think the powder is good.
I will continue the fight. Trouble free days ahead, I hope.
@richard - From this forum, I believe the term is POP. I have it, my kids don't. lol. As far as bad DPD, I just ordered the kit 2 weeks ago. So, I would think the powder is good.
I will continue the fight. Trouble free days ahead, I hope.
Adding DE should help confirm your filter is operating properly.
You should see a 1 psi increase in pressure when slowing adding 1-2 cups to the skimmer 1/4 cup at a time. You stop when you get to +1 PSI.
If it blows right through into the pool and your pressure never goes up 1 psi, something isn't right.
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Also, it makes sense that a bad valve would keep your pressure down. Some flow was escaping before it was forced down through the sand. The pressure is produced from the resistance the filter media provides. If there's a path of less resistance, the water will take it, reducing the pressure.
You should see a 1 psi increase in pressure when slowing adding 1-2 cups to the skimmer 1/4 cup at a time. You stop when you get to +1 PSI.
If it blows right through into the pool and your pressure never goes up 1 psi, something isn't right.
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Also, it makes sense that a bad valve would keep your pressure down. Some flow was escaping before it was forced down through the sand. The pressure is produced from the resistance the filter media provides. If there's a path of less resistance, the water will take it, reducing the pressure.
The valve never leaked though. The exit port cracked when I was connecting the return line at the beginning of last season. No problems up to that point.