I'm going to do one tonight just to make sure I am in the clear, it was good 3 nights or so ago and I haven't done it since but I will.
TF100 Arrived!!!! help! 7/2 CLOUDY AGAIN :(
- Thread starter Jill
- Start date
With all due repect for the mods, Jill you should look for someone in your area that maintains pools, for the public or private and get them over there on site to see whars going on. You have been going at it for almost a month on this thread, and they are asking you if you passed OCLT AGAIN. I'm sure you will probably pass AGAIN and the chlorine loss in pure sunny daylight of 4ppm with the level your keeping at is normal. Personally I don't think its algae. I think its scale or the broken pipe, but of course I'm not sure. But it should not take a month on this thread to figure it out either. Thats just not fair to you, you are obviously trying and so are the members. Some problems are bigger or more involved and need on site inspection and verification. But don't go to the pool store, look in the phone book or better word of mouth, or just go to a facility that has a big pool and ask for the guy or gal that maintains the pool and get someone over there to help you out.
I know, I guess it's just been wishful thinking....Ugh, now to find somebody trustworthy.......For what it's worth, I did pass the OCLT.......BUT I also lost about 6 inches of water over night because smarty me turned the pump on and forgot it was turned to WASTE.........So with 6 inches less of water, does passing the OCLT even count?
Getting a person to come look at it might not be too bad a thing but I'll give you my thoughts anyway.
Losing water doesn't invalidate the OCLT.
I just went back and read the whole thread. I think there are a few issues going on.
1. The broken pipe. Did you ever get that fixed?
2. You had algae and then fixed that but with the heater off. Once you turned the heater on you introduced stuff back into the pool. Causing you to have to shock again.
3. With your CH being high and your fill water having such a high TA you have clouding.
I think at this point you have all the algae killed and and have passed the OCLT. Which leaves some clearing out to do and if I'm correct about the clouding your filter may never get it clear. You can actively bring your TA down and lower your pH and see if that helps. That would be my suggestion at this point. Once you've done that, if it doesn't clear up you can try some clarifier.
If the leak in the pipe hasn't been repaired, and you're having to add a lot of water, I'd suggest running a temporary suction from the pump to the pool and using that until you can get the piping fixed. You'll have to plug the skimmer pipe in the pool so it'll stop leaking water out.
Losing water doesn't invalidate the OCLT.
I just went back and read the whole thread. I think there are a few issues going on.
1. The broken pipe. Did you ever get that fixed?
2. You had algae and then fixed that but with the heater off. Once you turned the heater on you introduced stuff back into the pool. Causing you to have to shock again.
3. With your CH being high and your fill water having such a high TA you have clouding.
I think at this point you have all the algae killed and and have passed the OCLT. Which leaves some clearing out to do and if I'm correct about the clouding your filter may never get it clear. You can actively bring your TA down and lower your pH and see if that helps. That would be my suggestion at this point. Once you've done that, if it doesn't clear up you can try some clarifier.
If the leak in the pipe hasn't been repaired, and you're having to add a lot of water, I'd suggest running a temporary suction from the pump to the pool and using that until you can get the piping fixed. You'll have to plug the skimmer pipe in the pool so it'll stop leaking water out.
1.No, the pipe has not been fixed yet.
2.I never figured out if I was supossed to shock with the heater on or not so I left it off.......Should I shock with the heater on? Husband says there is no pipe that the heater uses that the filter doesn't so.....
3. How can I bring down my TA and Ph correctly? I have muratic acid.......
Good idea about the temp suction, I will pass that on to dh.
THANK YOU!
2.I never figured out if I was supossed to shock with the heater on or not so I left it off.......Should I shock with the heater on? Husband says there is no pipe that the heater uses that the filter doesn't so.....
3. How can I bring down my TA and Ph correctly? I have muratic acid.......
Good idea about the temp suction, I will pass that on to dh.
THANK YOU!
One other thing, my water looked relatively alright this morning. I could see the bottom of the deep end , but it is def cloudy. I am curious to see what it looks like in a few hours once it is filled back up. If it is the hose water making it cloudy is there anything I can use to help that?
Muriatic acid is the way to lower TA. Here's the short version of how you do it. You can read the long version in Pool School if you'd like also.
You aerate the surface of the water with a homemade aerator or by turning the eyeballs up to break the surface of the water.
That will raise the pH rather quickly but won't affect the TA.
When the pH gets to about 7.6 or 7.8 add enough muriatic acid to bring it back down to 7.2 or even 7.0.
This will lower not only the pH but also the TA.
Then repeat the process of aeration and acid until your TA is down to about 80 or so. It may take a while but it'll be worth it.
You can use the Pool Calc to figure out how much acid to add once you test the pH.
If it's the fill water contributing to the cloudiness (I suspect it is) you can use the aeration/acid process to lower the TA even lower than 80 ppm prior to refilling the pool.
You aerate the surface of the water with a homemade aerator or by turning the eyeballs up to break the surface of the water.
That will raise the pH rather quickly but won't affect the TA.
When the pH gets to about 7.6 or 7.8 add enough muriatic acid to bring it back down to 7.2 or even 7.0.
This will lower not only the pH but also the TA.
Then repeat the process of aeration and acid until your TA is down to about 80 or so. It may take a while but it'll be worth it.
You can use the Pool Calc to figure out how much acid to add once you test the pH.
If it's the fill water contributing to the cloudiness (I suspect it is) you can use the aeration/acid process to lower the TA even lower than 80 ppm prior to refilling the pool.
What about the shocking while the HEATER is ON or OFF? It has been OFF thus far.........Also What would I use as an aerator? Make one, buy one?
When you said "off" I assumed you meant valved out. As long as it's plumbed in the system where the water flows through it all the time don't worry about it. It's fine.
Cool. I am pretty sure it's our hose water giving the pool the funky color bc now that it is filled up again the color is back to the yellowish/greenish tinge.
Crazy idea... is it the hose proper...or the water... providing the color??
Have you tested the water from you hose and from your kitchen tap to see if it is different in the two places, or at the hose bib and the other end of the hose?
Have you tested the water from you hose and from your kitchen tap to see if it is different in the two places, or at the hose bib and the other end of the hose?
Yes that sounds like metals. Most likely you will need a metal sequestrant to put the metals back into solution (take the tinting out of the water). See this link for recommended sequestrants: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/metal stainsJill said:
Have you had the water tested for metals?
Oh my word! I'm not sure I understand that all! I will post my test results in a few and maybe someone can help me?
I seem to remember one pool store saying I had no metals......But on a plus side, dh threw in some Sea Klear PRS yesterday and I have to say, the bottom is covered with the beige junk and the pool is more clear except for the yellow tinge is still there. I think I might run up and buy some of the Jack's Magic Pink Stuff later today.....
I seem to remember one pool store saying I had no metals......But on a plus side, dh threw in some Sea Klear PRS yesterday and I have to say, the bottom is covered with the beige junk and the pool is more clear except for the yellow tinge is still there. I think I might run up and buy some of the Jack's Magic Pink Stuff later today.....
FC: 18.5
CC:0
TA:220
PH:didn't test bc of high FC, but I did turn up my eyeballs so that a little fountain is being created in 2 places.....
CH: 400
CYA:40 (should I raise this?)
I have to wait for my FC to go down to figure this out right?
Also, just turned on the heater for the first time since this whole mess began. Praying things look the same or better tomorrow!!!
CC:0
TA:220
PH:didn't test bc of high FC, but I did turn up my eyeballs so that a little fountain is being created in 2 places.....
CH: 400
CYA:40 (should I raise this?)
I have to wait for my FC to go down to figure this out right?
Also, just turned on the heater for the first time since this whole mess began. Praying things look the same or better tomorrow!!!
I think we are assuming you are algae free at this point so yes, I would let it drop down to the 3-7 ppm range (but never lower than 3 while your at 40 ppm cya).Jill said:
I wouldn't at this point, let's work with the cloudy water first.Jill said:
Kids swam for the first time since June yesterday and they said there are fine white particles floating everywhwere...Now there is a wierd white crust on the far ladder that I haven't cleaned yet. Could it be dead Algae?
Its not algae Jill. Did you get anyone over there yet. Please do....you may be wasting LOTS of time, LOTS of money on chemicals. You may have a mechanical problem with the filter of multi-valve and your white stuff "could" be Zeobrite being blow back into the pool from a cracked lateral or some other problem with the mechanicals.