Water looks very good. So I need to start using the liquid chlorine. Due to evaporation (high temps and humidity) adding water frequently
Taylor k2006 test kit
- Thread starter dkbrat
- Start date
Unfortunately evaporation leaves behind the CYA, only sucking water out and adding CYA free water will lower it. You should definitely make the switch to liquid chlorine right away, more CYA will not help a thing. If you get any allotment of water for your lawn you could drain water from your pool to water your lawn (many on the forum do it with no bad results) and use the water allotment for your pool. Also if you can divert any rain gutters to the pool it would help, that is if you can get any rain...
Now for the alternative to 30 ppm FC, I normally wouldn't suggest this but since you are in a drought it could help you get through until you can get some fresh water. If you used a polyquat algaecide weekly you could probably get away with running a lower FC, around 5-10 based on what I have read from chem geek. This could protect you from developing a bloom, which would be very difficult to deal with at your CYA. I imagine some will disagree with this. I admit that keeping an FC level of 30 would be better, but at that level you can't test your pH accurately and you will burn through FAS-DPD reagents quickly. Unless someone has a better idea I think those are your two least bad options.
Now for the alternative to 30 ppm FC, I normally wouldn't suggest this but since you are in a drought it could help you get through until you can get some fresh water. If you used a polyquat algaecide weekly you could probably get away with running a lower FC, around 5-10 based on what I have read from chem geek. This could protect you from developing a bloom, which would be very difficult to deal with at your CYA. I imagine some will disagree with this. I admit that keeping an FC level of 30 would be better, but at that level you can't test your pH accurately and you will burn through FAS-DPD reagents quickly. Unless someone has a better idea I think those are your two least bad options.
I bought http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Ch ... 14025.html and bleach
retested this morning
FC 1.8
CC 0
ph 7.4
TA130
CH 210
CYA still very high believe to be over 300 based on the 1/4 3/4 water test
Is this algae control ok? Used pool calculator and adding 82 oz bleach
Am I on the right track?
retested this morning
FC 1.8
CC 0
ph 7.4
TA130
CH 210
CYA still very high believe to be over 300 based on the 1/4 3/4 water test
Is this algae control ok? Used pool calculator and adding 82 oz bleach
Am I on the right track?
Sorry. You are not really on the right track.
We do not recommend the use of algaecide (although I think that does appear to be poly 60 which is what we recommend in limited circumstances) you need a LOT!!!! more chlorine if you hope to keep the pool clear with the CYA that high.
You really need to be draining and replacing like > 80% of the water to get the CYA to a reasonable range to have any hope of keep the pool clear and safe.
We do not recommend the use of algaecide (although I think that does appear to be poly 60 which is what we recommend in limited circumstances) you need a LOT!!!! more chlorine if you hope to keep the pool clear with the CYA that high.
You really need to be draining and replacing like > 80% of the water to get the CYA to a reasonable range to have any hope of keep the pool clear and safe.
Look at this chart: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
The MINIMUM FC level for a CYA of 100ppm is 7ppm to prevent algae from starting.
Yours is > 300ppm CYA ... therefore the MINIMUM FC level for you is > 21ppm ... 5ppm is not going to cut it.
You need to replace water.
The MINIMUM FC level for a CYA of 100ppm is 7ppm to prevent algae from starting.
Yours is > 300ppm CYA ... therefore the MINIMUM FC level for you is > 21ppm ... 5ppm is not going to cut it.
You need to replace water.
You really need to be draining and replacing like > 80% of the water to get the CYA to a reasonable range to have any hope of keep the pool clear and safe.
I can not drain at this time. See recommendations from earlier post. Trying to prevent algae while switching to bleach and then draining when water restrictions lifted and 100 degree temperatures drop
I can not drain at this time. See recommendations from earlier post. Trying to prevent algae while switching to bleach and then draining when water restrictions lifted and 100 degree temperatures drop
Ok, so I changed the goal in pool calculator to 10 and added additional bleach. I have to try interim solutions as I can not drain. Need all the help I can as I am just changing to the BBB method as of today
Nothing jblizzle said is incorrect, as I said some people won't agree with this. I don't even agree with this but I don't have water restrictions in Ohio so I wouldn't have the same problem. If there is any way to get fresh water to your pool then do it. Don't leave any stone unturned.
The use of the polyquat and lower FC than recommended is meant as a TEMPORARY fix. It is based on statements and experiences from others on the board, not from my own experiences. As such I can't guarantee anything but it should help keep things clear until you get your CYA lowered. But the "right track" will be to get your CYA down as quickly as possible through any reasonable means necessary.
The use of the polyquat and lower FC than recommended is meant as a TEMPORARY fix. It is based on statements and experiences from others on the board, not from my own experiences. As such I can't guarantee anything but it should help keep things clear until you get your CYA lowered. But the "right track" will be to get your CYA down as quickly as possible through any reasonable means necessary.
I am adding fresh water in 40 min increments twice a week. I know this is not the best solution, but will that fresh water help any
Adding water to replace evaporation loss will NOT change the CYA values. THis is the problem with CYA, it builds up in your pool to the point where it makes chlorine essentially 100% ineffective.
The only way to take CYA out of a pool is to take existing water out and replace it with fresh water.
The only way to take CYA out of a pool is to take existing water out and replace it with fresh water.
Techguy beat me to it. If you are just replacing evaporated water it won't lower your CYA. If you are also draining some water and replacing it then your CYA level will slowly come down.
@ Donaldson: Where did you read that the use of poly 60 could allow a 50+% lower FC for a given CYA?
There is a "chance" that doing this "might" keep the water clear. You are in uncharted territory and way outside our normal recommendations due to your water restrictions.
Personally, even with the poly 60, I think I would want to keep my FC well above 10ppm ... although remember the pH test is not valid when the FC > 10ppm. Maybe keep it higher and let it drop below 10ppm occasionally to dial in the pH.
There is a "chance" that doing this "might" keep the water clear. You are in uncharted territory and way outside our normal recommendations due to your water restrictions.
Personally, even with the poly 60, I think I would want to keep my FC well above 10ppm ... although remember the pH test is not valid when the FC > 10ppm. Maybe keep it higher and let it drop below 10ppm occasionally to dial in the pH.
From chem geek's personal experiences, as mentioned here:
I normally wouldn't suggest it, and it is uncharted territory no question. In my opinion it is the least bad option, since a 30 FC level would hinder pH readings and burn through reagents very quickly. This plan will allow some leeway to be able to get accurate pH readings. I do like your idea, jblizzle, of maintaining the FC a bit above 10 and letting it drop occasionally to get a pH reading.
My take from that is he believes that he could potentially have had an FC of 3 with perhaps 250 CYA and prevent algae. I am thinking that since dkbrat's pool is currently clear it is probably low on nutrients, and thus with the polyquat can probably run around 10 FC with 360 CYA and manage to get by until a source of water can be obtained.chem geek said:
I normally wouldn't suggest it, and it is uncharted territory no question. In my opinion it is the least bad option, since a 30 FC level would hinder pH readings and burn through reagents very quickly. This plan will allow some leeway to be able to get accurate pH readings. I do like your idea, jblizzle, of maintaining the FC a bit above 10 and letting it drop occasionally to get a pH reading.
Sigh. Now I understand why my chlorine was always low when the pool store did tests. Told me to add more pucks and shock more. I guess that was just helping to raise my CYA. They also had me on a optimizer annually as well. When I can drain and refill, I was told that I need to drain from top. Is this accurate?
In reading the previous post from Donaldson, I understand it to indicate I should use the polyquat weekly, keep FC above 10 then let drop to test ph. Is once a week enough to test the pH?
This is very distressing, as I had a SW pool and it destroyed all of the stone copping (sp). So we took out the SWG
drained pool had all copping (sp) replaced and went to chlorine. Now I need to drain again. I will never visit our pool builder/retail store again. I think the real issue on the SW pool was the builder used Oklahoma flagstone which turned to sand went the salt water came into contact with it.
In reading the previous post from Donaldson, I understand it to indicate I should use the polyquat weekly, keep FC above 10 then let drop to test ph. Is once a week enough to test the pH?
This is very distressing, as I had a SW pool and it destroyed all of the stone copping (sp). So we took out the SWG
drained pool had all copping (sp) replaced and went to chlorine. Now I need to drain again. I will never visit our pool builder/retail store again. I think the real issue on the SW pool was the builder used Oklahoma flagstone which turned to sand went the salt water came into contact with it. It doesn't matter where you drain from, with pool circulation everything gets evenly mixed.
I would test pH no less than once a week. If you are noticing it rises quite a bit between tests then test a bit more often to avoid any problems with high pH. Since pucks are acidic you will most likely see your pH start to rise now that you aren't using them.
I would test pH no less than once a week. If you are noticing it rises quite a bit between tests then test a bit more often to avoid any problems with high pH. Since pucks are acidic you will most likely see your pH start to rise now that you aren't using them.
It does not matter where you drain the water from ... it is basically uniform. The CYA does not sit on the top of the pool.
If you can only test pH once a week, that is a sacrifice you are making in attempting to keep the pool clear.
SWG and natural stone just do not mix ... it really should be 1 or the other to avoid some of these issues ... especially with soft stones.
If you can only test pH once a week, that is a sacrifice you are making in attempting to keep the pool clear.
SWG and natural stone just do not mix ... it really should be 1 or the other to avoid some of these issues ... especially with soft stones.
One of the other threads was a build thread from OK or TX, his pool builder did the right thing... you can install an SWG or flagstone, not both. The poster went with a brushed concrete patio and an SWG. His neighbor used a different builder, installed both flagstone and SWG and his decking crumbled.
IMHO, pool builders may be great at building pools but maintaining them is a completely different thing. It's ok when you build and leave. When you own the pool, you need to live with it, everyday.
IMHO, pool builders may be great at building pools but maintaining them is a completely different thing. It's ok when you build and leave. When you own the pool, you need to live with it, everyday.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,765
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I have to give credit to my pool builder, he said "you can have stone or salt, pick one , but not both". I chose salt. The pool was built as a SWG pool, no stone anywhere. Concrete deck with a cantilever edge finished with a textured vinyl surface. I couldn't be more pleased. I have watched as my neighbors' salt pools natural stone have eroded away from salt damage.
[quote="techguy"]Adding water to replace evaporation loss will NOT change the CYA values. THis is the problem with CYA, it builds up in your pool to the point where it makes chlorine essentially 100% ineffective.
The only way to take CYA out of a pool is to take existing water out and replace it with fresh water.[/quote]
If I drain pool 8 inches will that have some impact on CYA and hope for rain in the next couple of months?
The only way to take CYA out of a pool is to take existing water out and replace it with fresh water.[/quote]
If I drain pool 8 inches will that have some impact on CYA and hope for rain in the next couple of months?