Taylor 2006c — Amazon vs Site

hokiejaws07

Well-known member
Jul 28, 2022
75
Virginia
Pool Size
18500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I was looking at the Taylor 2006c. On Amazon I see $127, but on their actual website I see $225. Is there a difference in products?
 
It's the same and its outrageous. Taylor adds another $125 for the K2006C-salt, which has the salt test that you can buy separately for $30.

Taylor was bought up not that long ago. I wonder if the online prices are leftovers before the 'new' Taylor jacked it's prices for this season.
 
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Also, online and store front pool supply businesses most likely can buy from Taylor at discount for business accounts, then resell. The only concern about buying online at Amazon is that it could be an old kit. This is not always the case as I have purchased reagents via Amazon with good results but something to watch for. Also, I purchased the K-2006 basic kit with good success via Amazon. So there are good deals, just read the reviews that people are not complaining about expired reagents.

I have found that my local pool store has more “expired” reagents on their shelf than what I have received from online at Amazon.
 
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I have gotten stuck with old product from Amazon. I just send it back. Happened twice one time. I just keep sending them back until I get a fresh one.

I had originally purchased the K-2006 and don't regret it. It has the smaller 3/4oz reagents, and a much smaller box. Some of the original reagents I never used (acid demand), so the smaller vials weren't as much of a waste. The ones I blow through I purchase 2oz reagents, keep those in a cupboard and refill the smaller vials as needed. The ones I barely use I replace with new 3/4oz vials. For CYA, I purchased a 16oz bottle and refill the two 3/4oz vials as needed. I believe this MO to be the most cost-effective one, as I would otherwise be tossing more unused reagents when the larger vials expire.

The smaller box is much easier to handle and fits where I need it to in my "pool cupboard." I figured out how to fit everything I need for testing in the smaller box, including my SpeedStir and two extra test vials plus the salt kit.

test kit 1.jpg cabinet.jpg

Tip 1: I align my reagents by order of use, first one in front, second one next, third in back, and label the caps with the number of drops to use, both of which helps my addled brain remember the instructions for each test without having to read the instructions label (which for some reason is getting smaller and smaller each year)!

Tip 2: I clip a couple of paperclips to the vial separators and stick my magnetic SpeedStir pills to them so that they stay put and dry well. That way I don't have to go digging around the box with my fat fingers to try and get them off the bottom.

Tip 3: Whenever I get one of those small desiccant packs (that come with vitamins or pills or electronics) I toss 'em in the kit, just for good measure.

test kit 2.jpg

PS. If you don't know what a SpeedStir is, buy one with your kit. It may sound extravagant, it is not. You'll test faster, more easily and much more accurately with one, and the first time you use it you'll thank us for recommending it.
 
I have gotten stuck with old product from Amazon. I just send it back. Happened twice one time. I just keep sending them back until I get a fresh one.

I had originally purchased the K-2006 and don't regret it. It has the smaller 3/4oz reagents, and a much smaller box. Some of the original reagents I never used (acid demand), so the smaller vials weren't as much of a waste. The ones I blow through I purchase 2oz reagents, keep those in a cupboard and refill the smaller vials as needed. The ones I barely use I replace with new 3/4oz vials. For CYA, I purchased a 16oz bottle and refill the two 3/4oz vials as needed. I believe this MO to be the most cost-effective one, as I would otherwise be tossing more unused reagents when the larger vials expire.

The smaller box is much easier to handle and fits where I need it to in my "pool cupboard." I figured out how to fit everything I need for testing in the smaller box, including my SpeedStir and two extra test vials plus the salt kit.

View attachment 481250 View attachment 481251

Tip 1: I align my reagents by order of use, first one in front, second one next, third in back, and label the caps with the number of drops to use, both of which helps my addled brain remember the instructions for each test without having to read the instructions label (which for some reason is getting smaller and smaller each year)!

Tip 2: I clip a couple of paperclips to the vial separators and stick my magnetic SpeedStir pills to them so that they stay put and dry well. That way I don't have to go digging around the box with my fat fingers to try and get them off the bottom.

Tip 3: Whenever I get one of those small desiccant packs (that come with vitamins or pills or electronics) I toss 'em in the kit, just for good measure.

View attachment 481252

PS. If you don't know what a SpeedStir is, buy one with your kit. It may sound extravagant, it is not. You'll test faster, more easily and much more accurately with one, and the first time you use it you'll thank us for recommending it.
Just curious, why did you buy the Taylor kit over the Tf-Pro?
 
Just curious, why did you buy the Taylor kit over the Tf-Pro?
The TF-pro wasn't available at the time. When he got his, the TF-100 and K-2006 were similarly priced and the 2006 had a nicer case. Now the K2006C costs well over the TF-100 and for $10 or so more the TFpro has an even nicer case and comes with the smart stir and is a no brainer.

So really it now comes down to the budget conscious TF-100/ (+salt if applicable)and TF-pro/salt, IMO.

I think anyone who buys the 2006C now is fooled by the larger bottles to test CH and TA. It seems like a better deal from a testing standpoint, but you simply don't need to test those often so most of them will be thrown out when they expire.
 
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I should have said— I own the Tf-Pro and recently bought the salt tester from Taylor. I do like the instructions on the Taylor 2006c box.

Like you said, I like the box of the Tf-Pro.
 
Just curious, why did you buy the Taylor kit over the Tf-Pro?
I don't now remember. Price maybe, at the time. They both use Taylor reagents, so you'll get the same test results.

If I was to buy again, I'd still buy the smaller K-2006, for the size and economy reasons I describe above. That's what works for me. Others here have other preferences, and some claim the TF-Pro is the more economical purchase. I don't know that anyone has actually done the real-world math, over a span of years, to prove that. I haven't. I believe tftestkits.net supplies refill kits, so that would be part of the math, too.

Basically, any of the kits TFP recommends put you on the path of Trouble Free Pool care, and from that standpoint any of the kits will pay for themselves in short order when compared with what you would spend on pool chemicals if left to the devices of a pool store or pool guy. Whatever the cost difference might be, it would be minimal in the grand scheme of pool maintenance purchases, so it's not a decision that deserves too much worry.
 
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I bought the K-2006 before I found TFP. I replaced it with another one after joining here. When I bought the current house last year, the owner left a version of the K-2006 with Leslie's name on the outside. So I have three of the blue cases. That said, I don't use any of the cases. I moved all the reagents to a Plano tackle box. I like it a lot because I don't have to squeeze everything in just the right configuration in order to shut the lid.
 
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Just curious, why did you buy the Taylor kit over the Tf-Pro?
I purchased the TF-100 first as I only had a basic kit from a pool store. Then as I was progressing with the TFP methodology, I purchased the basic small K-2006 (as did @Dirk ). I felt that since we recommend both that I should try both (the comparator is the main difference and the use of acid demand and base demand reagents) so I could understand any questions about one or the other.

I like the instruction book that came in the K-2006 but not the water chemistry wheel (the Pool Math app is much better for CSI).

I like the Series 2000 comparator in the K-2006 because it has 6 levels for pH whereas the K-1000 comparator in the TF-100 only had 5 levels for pH. I have since upgraded to a pH meter but at times I still use the Series 2000 comparator for pH.

However, I do not like the CYA vial as part Of the Series 2000 comparator. I always use the CYA tube that came with the TF-100 kit and recently purchased a new one when I purchased the refill set during the March sale from TFT Kits.

Clearly the TFT kit is the better value - i.e. more reagent on a $/oz comparison.
I do not use either the TF-100 box or the K-2006 box. I purchased a nice tackle box that fits everything - including a speedstirrer all on the top level and then below it, I store any extra reagents, extra vials, extra magnetic stirrers, extra scoops, a pen, etc. Older picture attached. Have updated to include salt testing and removed that K-1000 blue kit as I only use it to test my tap water for chlorine levels.

I also throw those dry packs in the kit to remove any moisture.

FC40CE8E-76D1-44CF-98DE-624E577FF6A0.jpeg
 
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I was looking at the Taylor 2006c. On Amazon I see $127, but on their actual website I see $225. Is there a difference in products?
Yes and maybe no. I bought it on Amazon 2 years ago and it was sold and shipped directly from Taylor. It looks like that's from a different seller so you can't be sure how old it is.
 
I purchase 2oz reagents, keep those in a cupboard and refill the smaller vials as needed.

FWIW, Taylor says the dropper tips eventually deform, so they recommend refilling no more than 8 times without replacing the tips.

I align my reagents by order of use, first one in front, second one next, third in back, and label the caps with the number of drops to use

The TF-Pro kit already arranges the bottles that way, but your cap labeling tip is great. Thanks!

By the way, does the label on your R-0010 say "20"? What sample size do you use for CH testing?
 
FWIW, Taylor says the dropper tips eventually deform, so they recommend refilling no more than 8 times without replacing the tips.
That's good to know, but I have a tip for that, too! A tip tip: The tips in the 2oz reagents are the same as the tips in the 3/4oz size. I'll make a habit of swapping out the 3/4oz tips for the 2oz tips once in a while.

By the way, does the label on your R-0010 say "20"? What sample size do you use for CH testing?
Good catch. On some of my caps I actually have both test sizes labeled. CH is one. So on that cap I have 20 on one side, and 10 on the other side. Then on the next reagent, I have 5 on one side and 3 on the other. So I just have to remember to use either the higher numbers or the lower set of numbers.

And I posted an older pic, I've since refined that trick. Note on some of the reagents there is an "X". That's the one I count drops, as in: drops "times" some number = the ppm result. I've added to those caps the multiplier, and in the case of CH I have both multipliers on that cap.

So on that third CH cap are the numbers 10 and 25 (the multipliers). I can remember to use the lower multiplier with the higher set of number and vice versa. I over complicated that (as I tend to do with everything), as, to answer your question, I usually only do the 10ml sample. Next time I label those blue caps I'll eliminate the 25ml test numbers, so it'll be, from front reagent cap to back:
10, 3 and 25.

My other "X" caps have their respective multipliers labeled, too.
 
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