Sundance pump trouble

Lykly

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Nov 6, 2015
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Ok ok
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
OK first my apologies this will probably be a long thread but I want to make sure I am explaining everything thoroughly. I really appreciate any help that I may receive.

I have a 2011 Sundance Altamor 880 I purchased brand new. It has an air pump, then it has a button labeled pump II that runs a couple of seats and foot massagers, and then it has pump I that runs the Jets on the recliner lounger seat and also has a secondary purpose which circulates for the heater and feeds waterfall feature. Water chemistry is good, filter is brand new.

A while back (I believe ~October 2021) , pump II went bad. I knew it went bad because every time I turned it on it would trip the breaker. With help from Spa guy on this forum I was able to identify the problem and I replaced the pump myself. Unfortunately when the hot tub was disassembled to remove pump I it was probably a week before I got it put back together, and then by that time the second pump (pump I) froze up. I figured since it was a 2011 model I would just go ahead and replace that pump as well, so I ordered it and installed it and up until recently everything‘s been fine.

As of recent, after everything was working fine for quite a few months, Now pump I (The most recently replaced) will only kick on maybe 40-50% of the time. When I press the button and it does not come on, the little circulation pump still does kick on and circulate water just like it does when it’s maintaining temperature. So the circulation pump that heats the pool continues to work and maintain the temperature, but if it’s not running to maintain temperature and I hit the pump to button most of the time the only thing that will kick on is that secondary circulation pump. The part of the pump that runs my jets doesn’t hardly come on at all anymore. Although I did get it to come on earlier today, but that’s the first time in two days I could get it to work.

Now for my question, I would like to be able to troubleshoot what’s wrong instead of possibly buying another pump or worse a circuit board if that’s what possibly could be wrong. guessing that these parts would be expensive. The fact that the circulation pump turns on every time I hit the button makes me think power is at least being relayed to that pump. I can hear a click on the circuit board every time I turn a pump on or off - that’s probably normal. Of course I don’t stick my fingers in there trying to identify what clicking because they do not want to get electrocuted. I’m pretty sure it clicks even when I turn on the Operating part with a noise from the pumps drowns it out. I noticed on the top of the pump, there is another little housing, is that some sort of relay?

I consider myself fairly handy, but when it comes to electric motors and such, I need some guidance. I do on a ohm meter, and I use that to check my household outlets but that’s about my only experience with an ohm meter. I did take the cover off the circuit board housing and just made sure all connections were solid. If I have left anything out please let me know, any help at all would be extremely appreciated. I would like to get everything working again obviously.
 
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pump II that runs the Jets on the recliner lounger seat and also has a secondary purpose which circulates for the heater and feeds waterfall feature.
Pump one is a two speed pump that can, depending on the system, feed the heater. Pump 2 does not EVER feed the heater. If you have them connected wrong, your spa will throw errors galore.

the little circulation pump still does kick on
This should run all the time unless the actual temp exceeds the set temp by 3 degrees. Check that the circ timer (if it has one) in the filter cycle programming is set to cont or 24.

Now pump II (The most recently replaced)
Pump 1 is on the right, pump 2 on the left. Which pump are you talking about?

noticed on the top of the pump, there is another little housing, is that some sort of relay?
Start capacitor.
Not sure what's going on there. Post pics of the circuit board, equipment area, and wiring diagram.
 
Pump one is a two speed pump that can, depending on the system, feed the heater. Pump 2 does not EVER feed the heater. If you have them connected wrong, your spa will throw errors galore.


This should run all the time unless the actual temp exceeds the set temp by 3 degrees. Check that the circ timer (if it has one) in the filter cycle programming is set to cont or 24.


Pump 1 is on the right, pump 2 on the left. Which pump are you talking about?


Start capacitor.
Not sure what's going on there. Post pics of the circuit board, equipment area, and wiring diagram.
RDspaguy, I posted those in the wrong order, in my mind I was thinking in the order I was looking at them. (I can’t believe I did that) I actually edited my post to make it correct. You are correct I’m talking about pump 1 which is on the right. That is the pump I’m having trouble with. That is also the most recently changed pump but I’m sure well out of warranty. When I hit pump 1 it always circulates water coming up from near the bottom of the hot tub and also will run the waterfall. I am presuming that is also feeding the heater. It’s definitely pump 1 not pump II. I will touch the circuitboard picture since I have taken one. I will have to get the other pictures once is daylight.
 

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RDspaguy, here are the requested photos. Currently as I mentioned the circulation pump runs as it is supposed to, the spa Jets come on about half of the time I try.
 

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I just went out and checked, yes the icon does go on and off when I toggle the push button. I will test the voltage, that will be much easier than switching the wiring. I’ll let you know what it shows. What should it read when I have the power button turned on? One question, do I have to disconnect the power from the motor or can I just check the leads while it’s still wired to the motor? Thanks for helping me.
 
So on inspecting the wiring, I noticed the ground lead did not seem secure. I took a screwdriver to tighten it and the setscrew was already very tight. Not sure if the copper lead had a kink in it or what. So I loosened it and pushed the copper ground wire a bit further through. I then secured it once again and it seemed solid. So far the pump has been working fine, I’m guessing this was it. Is it possible the circulation pump could work with a less solid ground connection? I’m still a little nervous this was the problem, but since the pump was working I did not see any benefit in testing voltage since it’s obviously working at the moment.
 
If by ground you mean a green or bare copper wire, it should have no bearing on the pump working or not, if white then it has everything to do with it. If it was green or bare disconnect it again and see what it does. Make sure power is off while handling it.
 
If by ground you mean a green or bare copper wire, it should have no bearing on the pump working or not, if white then it has everything to do with it. If it was green or bare disconnect it again and see what it does. Make sure power is off while handling it.
RDspaguy, I was talking about the bare copper wire that’s held in place by the set screw. I was about to check the voltage on the motor as you requested, when I noticed that copper wire moved fairly freely. I went to tighten the setscrew, but it was already tight not sure what was going on there. So I backed it off and pushed the wire through another couple inches and tightened that screw down in the wire became very secure. That pump (#1) has worked ever since. I hate to hear that should not have had any effect, I was hoping that was the issue. I will remove the copper ground wire tomorrow when it gets light out after work and let you know what it does with it disconnected. Right now everything‘s working, I’m fixing to get in it in a few minutes. Thanks again for all your help, I’ll let you know tomorrow after I remove the copper ground wire.
 
RDspaguy, I was talking about the bare copper wire that’s held in place by the set screw. I was about to check the voltage on the motor as you requested, when I noticed that copper wire moved fairly freely. I went to tighten the setscrew, but it was already tight not sure what was going on there. So I backed it off and pushed the wire through another couple inches and tightened that screw down in the wire became very secure. That pump (#1) has worked ever since. I hate to hear that should not have had any effect, I was hoping that was the issue. I will remove the copper ground wire tomorrow when it gets light out after work and let you know what it does with it disconnected. Right now everything‘s working, I’m fixing to get in it in a few minutes. Thanks again for all your help, I’ll let you know tomorrow after I remove the copper ground wire.
@RDspaguy is right, the bare/green didn't fix the problem (just for record, it's a 2015 post). Either problem returned and OP didn't elaborate, or motor connections being disturbed "cured" a bad connection within the housing. Sometimes when you get a loose connection or one that has resistance, it will arc and that will make a small weld that will become a low-resistance connection and "solve" the problem. Said weld may or may not hold up to motor vibration over time...

Just my $.02.
 

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Thank you for the reply. This is not an old thread actually but I do appreciate the input. I’m really not sure what happened to make it all start working, but I do know when I went to investigate and was going to check with an ohm meter power coming from the switch at the motor connections, I noticed the ground wire was extremely loose. I resecured it, and for whatever reason it has worked ever since. I understand that was not the problem, but at this point I’m just leaving well enough alone until the problem reoccurs. I really appreciate all the help. I received here, if I get some extra time, I might go ahead and check all other connections, sense that ground where it was never the original culprit. Thanks again. I will definitely post any updates.
 
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