Starting a new pool "Construction has started, Bicarb startup help”
- Thread starter AZRider
- Start date
Thanks again for your input. Other than that question about skimmer excavator get a great job all measurements and elevations were dead on. They were done in 4 hrs.
Make sure to keep asking questions and noting concerns. This will make sure your pool is the best pool possible! Well done!
Plumber came out Wednesday after excavation and mapped out plumbing location and pad lay out. He wants to put pumps on pool end of pad, then filter and heater. All piping from pool and SPA at end of pad and not off to long side of the pad as I see most layouts. Is this going to create issues for me in the future?
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Leave more space between garage wall and equipment is all I can figure. I will home when they start working. I can ask for more questions before they set the equipment..
I’m not saying that the plumber is wrong in wanting to align the equipment in this particular order, pumps, filter then the heater is the typical order of equipment, it’s wanting to to have the manifold on the short side of the equipment pad, this may have the pipes in a tight fit.
Plumbers finished rough plumbing and setup equipment pad, they will be back after rebar to do SPA Therapies and pressure test. Does anything jump out as an issue?
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Schwimmbad
Gold Supporter
- Sep 4, 2022
- 323
- Pool Size
- 15400
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The Pentair pump installation manual says “valves, elbows, or tees in the suction line shall be no less than 5 times the suction pipe diameter from the pump inlet”. So if 2.5” diameter, should have 12.5” straight pipe in front of inlet.
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A few things to consider,
Pipe directly behind the main pump may make it difficult to replace the motor in the future.
A brace between the inlet and outlet of the filter to give support to the long run of the top pipe.
An extension pipe for ease of draining the water in the lowest point of the filter.
If the pipe with the gauge installed is an air line for the spa, have two 90 fittings installed after the gauge is removed and left open on the end for maximum efficiency.
ID decals placed on the plumbing pipes for future reference of their purpose.
Pipe directly behind the main pump may make it difficult to replace the motor in the future.
A brace between the inlet and outlet of the filter to give support to the long run of the top pipe.
An extension pipe for ease of draining the water in the lowest point of the filter.
If the pipe with the gauge installed is an air line for the spa, have two 90 fittings installed after the gauge is removed and left open on the end for maximum efficiency.
ID decals placed on the plumbing pipes for future reference of their purpose.
Thanks, I measured them, the filtration pump is 11 1/2” and the SPA pump is 13”. Both are close but should have been a bit longer. Surprises me that they do not know this considering they do it for a living.
I checked clearance there should be enough space to slide pump back from coupler to replace pump. Hopefully that will be years away.
There will be a SPA blower on the pipe.
I know most of the ID’s. Filtration Pump suction closest is SPA filtration, the next 3 are skimmer, main drain and vacuum port. Which of those 3 would you not place a valve on? Thanks for the tips and feedback!
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Rebar is done. I know to check that all the ties are pointed down, Is there anything else to look for?
Check for any loose dirt that may have fallen from the walls to the floor that would not allow for the proper 3” thickness from the rebar to the floor/walls.
Any overlap bars need to be a minimum of 12”.
The plumbing/lighting pipes need to be secured so the Shotcrete process will not move them.
From the picture provided unable to see if the spillway from the spa to the pool is properly bent for the correct size.
Can you provide a picture of the skimmer cut out with the cage around it?
Any overlap bars need to be a minimum of 12”.
The plumbing/lighting pipes need to be secured so the Shotcrete process will not move them.
From the picture provided unable to see if the spillway from the spa to the pool is properly bent for the correct size.
Can you provide a picture of the skimmer cut out with the cage around it?
There is a step in corner of SPA but no rebar. Is the supposed to be steel in corner? Thanks
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The picture of the skimmer shows 2 plumbing pipes in the background very near the rebar, plumbing pipes that travel in and out of the Shotcrete shell (like in the picture) may be cause for concern from a movement standpoint. The shotcrete has the least likely chance to move but the plumbing surrounded by dirt may and keeping them separate from each other as much as possible is best. The cage itself looks good around the skimmer.
A note for the future, when the peg board is removed after Shotcrete (on the raised bond beam) make sure that the outer surface is finished the same as the inside of the shell, so it will need to be removed shortly after being shot with material.
Steps inside the spa shell of the pool typically do not have rebar due to the fact that they are not part of the integrity of the shell, but inside the outer shell. This does not hold true for seats in the deep end of the pool , they need the rebar for the Shotcrete to hold on to and not have the large seat collapse from its own weight.
A note for the future, when the peg board is removed after Shotcrete (on the raised bond beam) make sure that the outer surface is finished the same as the inside of the shell, so it will need to be removed shortly after being shot with material.
Steps inside the spa shell of the pool typically do not have rebar due to the fact that they are not part of the integrity of the shell, but inside the outer shell. This does not hold true for seats in the deep end of the pool , they need the rebar for the Shotcrete to hold on to and not have the large seat collapse from its own weight.
Thanks for the feedback so far. I’m not sure which pipes you are referring to. I added the full photo to help me understand.
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The yellow line represents what will most likely be the outline of the Shotcrete to encapsulate the skimmer.
The red lines represent the pipes of concern, when the pipes are plumbed without being fully supported by dirt in a trench it can be difficult to achieve the proper compaction underneath them with the same support as having them incased in Shotcrete.
The red lines represent the pipes of concern, when the pipes are plumbed without being fully supported by dirt in a trench it can be difficult to achieve the proper compaction underneath them with the same support as having them incased in Shotcrete.
I am not familiar with leaving the rebar that close to the pool forms. Standard distance is a minimum of 3”.
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