It is close at that spot on Baja shelf, the vertical tails are touch form boards the horizontals are back 3”. Rest of pool appears all 3”. Should I trim the tails back so they do not touch forms.
Starting a new pool "Construction has started, Bicarb startup help”
- Thread starter AZRider
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If the builder has no future use for the rebar being that close to the end of the Shotcrete, I would ensure that it has the proper coverage (minimum of 3”).
The rough electric and plumbing are finished, have inspection scheduled for tomorrow. I have a couple questions about pipe and microbrite placement on Baja Shelf. Are they at correct elevation? Also, Is it normal for the air line to be above rebar at spillover?
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It’s hard to tell from a picture regarding the light elevation. Look at the two pictures provided before/after and take measurements of your application to see if they are correct.
I have not seen that type of application before with the plumbing on top of the rebar, this would make the spillway elevation very hard to achieve and also make the spillway weak due to inadequate Shotcrete thickness in that area. Contact the plumber for an explanation of this application.
I have not seen that type of application before with the plumbing on top of the rebar, this would make the spillway elevation very hard to achieve and also make the spillway weak due to inadequate Shotcrete thickness in that area. Contact the plumber for an explanation of this application.
In picture #1 what is the distance between the bottom of the grey pipe to 
the top of the rebar?
the top of the rebar?Minimum coverage of the rebar cage is 3””, that leaves 1/2” coverage for plaster and would put the light location directly on top of the plaster.
The picture I provided shows 1” of vertical distance between the bottom of the light and the top of the plaster surface.
The picture you provided that’s in question is of a reef step, correct?
The picture I provided shows 1” of vertical distance between the bottom of the light and the top of the plaster surface.
The picture you provided that’s in question is of a reef step, correct?
What is the distance from the top of the grey/electrical pipe to the top of the form or the top of the 3 horizontal rebar bars?
Shotcrete tomorrow morning. We had a big storm come through Sunday night Monday morning had 6 inches of water in deep end but it was gone by this morning. I protected skimmer cutout but water came through water leveler ditch and eroded the side of the pool excavation. Is this an issue I need to worry about?
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Yes it’s a concern, the steel cage requires a minimum of 3” of Shotcrete to surround it on the backside up to the dirt.
The void that is left behind can be filled with Shotcrete or sandbags to replace the dirt.
The void that is left behind can be filled with Shotcrete or sandbags to replace the dirt.
Shotcrete is done. I have been watering every couple hrs. It is very thirsty! Had a hiccup with the SPA. Crew failed to follow the plans and built the step too high and square instead of the 45 angle on plans. One of the crew came back with hammer and chisel and spent 3 hrs correcting the mistake. Question, how long should I leave bond beam forms in place?
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Forms can be removed at any time.
Shotcrete needs to be Saturated Surface Dry for the first seven days minimum, this has a direct impact on the strength and its permeability, it cannot be over watered, this process keeps the temperature down and that is what slows the process of curing.
Shotcrete needs to be Saturated Surface Dry for the first seven days minimum, this has a direct impact on the strength and its permeability, it cannot be over watered, this process keeps the temperature down and that is what slows the process of curing.
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SWEET!!! That looks great! Have you started bonding with it yet? aka watering it to help slow down the curing.
It is time for your set of links! The first set is all about what to do and ask about to get a great plaster job. The second set is all about how to care for your pool after you get the plaster.
Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool
Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.
Kim
It is time for your set of links! The first set is all about what to do and ask about to get a great plaster job. The second set is all about how to care for your pool after you get the plaster.
Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool
Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.
Kim
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Not sure if right, wrong, or doesn’t matter, but I removed the forms myself the day after shotcrete. It was a chore. Some of the forms and rebar were very difficult, others were easy. I bought a 4’ prybar and got a clevis with an eyelet to get the rebar up. Some of the rebar used as stakes for the forms was encased in Shotcrete I tried to pull but to no avail, my coping contractor used a small hand circular saw to cut off as low as possible. I didn’t ask, but I expect my coping contractor would have done as part of their scope. I just wanted it done.
As soon as the material can stand on its own forms can be removed, I have seen this done within 30 minutes of application, this is directly related to the SLUMP of the batch.
Covering rebar is more detailed than just filling a hole from the plaster crew, depending on what is used.
It’s the permeability of the surrounding material that keeps the rebar from getting moist and in return rusting.
It’s the permeability of the surrounding material that keeps the rebar from getting moist and in return rusting.