Some assembly required custom DIY above ground pool build

26 gauge is really thin. Lots of pressure. Nice work. Be ready to add some steel between the uprights. What are you're O/C measurements.
20"OC I have plenty of 2"x2" square tube to add if needed but based on most of the manufactured pools I see the sheet metal is paper thin so I HOPE it is enough🤞🤞🤞🤞
 
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20"OC I have plenty of 2"x2" square tube to add if needed but based on most of the manufactured pools I see the sheet metal is paper thin so I HOPE it is enough🤞🤞🤞🤞
The pool wall on my pool was run thru a machine that, for lack of a better term "CORRUGATES" it. Like the inside of cardboard. This adds strength. The walls on the pool I just took down were not 26 gauge.
 
I just thought of something. Think about getting some foam "cove" to help ease the transition from the wall to the floor. This will keep the liner from coming in contact with the metal edges.
Thanks, I already have the foam cove & foam wall "liner" for that exact reason, also using Gorilla tape on all seams & screws I thinks this thing will hold water without a liner when I'm don:cool:
 
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The pool wall on my pool was run thru a machine that, for lack of a better term "CORRUGATES" it. Like the inside of cardboard. This adds strength. The walls on the pool I just took down were not 26 gauge.
Yea I knew the factory pools were corrugated & that definitely adds strength, I originally quoted 24 gauge material & when I picked it up it was $200.00 cheaper so I thought what a deal. my brain does not think in terms of gauge so I ASSumed 26 was what I wanted when I originally drew it up. At this point I think I can reinforce as needed cheaper & easier then scrapping the material I already have. Thanks for your input I really appreciate the information.
 
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All the panels are up I left one out to make easier access to complete the rest. Tomorrow I will start on the receiver track & bottom row of screws then maybe the wall foam. After that all I lack is a final touch on dirt, run the other 4 support straps, tarp ="old Intex pool liner" foam board floor & cove. Also need to cut holes for the skimmer & return but I want to roll out liner to make sure I wont be in the middle of a seam. I will definitely be adding water by the weekend:shark::drown:
 

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Receiver track installed & screws/seams taped up. I started out with the plan of using a full strip of tape on the screws between each seam & thought that tape is $15.97 a roll no reason to waste it, after tearing about 20 small squares of Gorilla tape with cuts on my fingers I thought that tape is ONLY $15.97 a roll why am I doing this:brickwall:
 

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I suspect the wall will be fine but I'd want more straps going across the bottom if it's not too late.
I didn't see anything to keep the upper side of the walls from leaning out in the center also? The straps tie the bottom together, but there's nothing to hold the top together, so typically you have something at the bottom to do the job.
 
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I suspect the wall will be fine but I'd want more straps going across the bottom if it's not too late.
I didn't see anything to keep the upper side of the walls from leaning out in the center also? The straps tie the bottom together, but there's nothing to hold the top together, so typically you have something at the bottom to do the job.
Thanks for the input, I have been looking at several manufactured rectangular pools & noticed they all had straps across the bottom so I am putting 2 more straps across the short side & 2 long ways made from building tie down material that apparently is a good replacement for the factory straps as a safety precaution not sure I need them but cheap insurance & almost impossible to add later, I will be putting them in tomorrow before I put the tarp down I hope to remember to take pictures.

I am building a catwalk "bar" the entire length on the South side that will definitely strengthen that top rail and if needed I am prepared to add something similar to the North.

I also bolted the pool frame to both decks not sure if that's a good idea or not but if not it is easy to loosen the bolts or even cut out but would be a pain to add later.

Again thanks, I am too far in to back out now but if needed I would put off a few days to make needed adjustments.

And added a Della frog watching picture just because....Thank God she has FINALLY quit licking them and just watches them now!
 

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Thanks for the input, I have been looking at several manufactured rectangular pools & noticed they all had straps across the bottom so I am putting 2 more straps across the short side & 2 long ways made from building tie down material that apparently is a good replacement for the factory straps as a safety precaution not sure I need them but cheap insurance & almost impossible to add later, I will be putting them in tomorrow before I put the tarp down I hope to remember to take pictures.

I am building a catwalk "bar" the entire length on the South side that will definitely strengthen that top rail and if needed I am prepared to add something similar to the North.

I also bolted the pool frame to both decks not sure if that's a good idea or not but if not it is easy to loosen the bolts or even cut out but would be a pain to add later.

Again thanks, I am too far in to back out now but if needed I would put off a few days to make needed adjustments.

And added a Della frog watching picture just because....Thank God she has FINALLY quit licking them and just watches them now!

The idea is to get strength near the center of the span, so the ends and the deck aren't going to matter.

A friend of mine is getting ready to build something similar, only he wants to use 2x2 1/4 wall tube and he's going to run that across the bottom as well instead of strapping.
 
Okay so here is the last "structural" picture before the tarp, foam wall pad, floor insulation board, cove, liner & water go in.

If you see a problem please speak up now or forever hold it🤢 since tomorrow night will probably be too late.

Please keep in mind my engineering degree came from the accredited school of HMB&WT (hold my beer & watch this) with some continuing education courses at the U of YT ( university of you tube) so I am obviously well qualified and if something were to go wrong I have the law firm of Dewey Cheatem & How on retainer.

Thanks for all the help & again lets hope this works:cool:
 

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Okay so here is the last "structural" picture before the tarp, foam wall pad, floor insulation board, cove, liner & water go in.

If you see a problem please speak up now or forever hold it🤢 since tomorrow night will probably be too late.

Please keep in mind my engineering degree came from the accredited school of HMB&WT (hold my beer & watch this) with some continuing education courses at the U of YT ( university of you tube) so I am obviously well qualified and if something were to go wrong I have the law firm of Dewey Cheatem & How on retainer.

Thanks for all the help & again lets hope this works:cool:

My only concern is there's still not much keeping the walls plumb.
The straps keep the bottoms tied together, but there's nothing there to keep the tops from leaning out, nothing is tying the top together at or near the center of the spans.

On traditional oval pools the straps across the bottom tie the bottom of the wall together so it can't spread, but the bracing, or on some pools, the upside down T shape is what keeps the walls plumb. So they can't spread apart, but they also can't lean. Perhaps the heavier frame of yours will make up for this, but maybe it won't.
 
The arrows show where I believe the forces act on a typical oval pool. A lot of them have plates on the inside to use the water weight to help as well.
 

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The arrows show where I believe the forces act on a typical oval pool
+1. Here is my oval pool with exactly as you drew. (Unseen is the steel buttress straps connecting the left and right sides) 20210414_161816_IMG_7078.jpg

However. My posts, top and bottom rails were not 4 inch welded steel and instead were held together by gravity and some bolts. IMO Vmaxxed has it covered, but I'm no engineer so whattdoiknow?
 
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