Some assembly required custom DIY above ground pool build

vmaxed

0
Jul 6, 2016
40
Joshua, TX
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I put in a 12'X24' Intex & built decks on both ends back in July of 2016, I built & maintained the pool with much help from this forum, I did not ask many questions because I found most of the answers I needed just searching the forum & using Pool Math. What a Great site this is I would have never gotten a pool due to fear of maintenance if it weren't for TFP.

One of the mistakes I made on my initial install was using standard pavers under the legs and I have since found many post on not doing that but I somehow missed that on original research therefore I had a couple crack and sink a little well due to that I ended up with a low corner which has continued to sink due to water always splashing out of that corner and now rotted the legs out on that corner so time to replace, this pool has doubled in cost since my original install and is a little small, I do not want an inground pool due to the trees on my property that make it very private but in turn load this AG pool up with leaves I can't imagine what it would do to an IG.

Since I am land locked between the 2 decks I built & I do not want to start over there and really don't want to move the deck any closer to the patio I have decided to build a custom AG pool and I am finding very little information on this so I will start with some details & questions and if I go through with it I promise to add some pictures and details as I go.

I am planning on building a 14' X 24' above ground with a true water depth of 52" the frame will be 2"x4" 14 ga tubing with the top rail laid flat & the bottom rail laid on edge I will use a 2"x4" tube post every 20" to attach & support the top & bottom rail & sheet metal, the sheet metal will be 41-9/16" wide (because that is how they sell it) so it will overlap on every seem at a post there will be 4"x8"x16" paver under each post, I plan on using the dense foam coving at the base, pink 1" foam board under the floor & angling a 2x4 tube at each corner since the liner guy said it is almost impossible to keep a square corner in place. I also plan on using the old Intex liner under everything as my "protection" layer since it is so thick. I had upgraded my Intex to the 2150GPH pump, larger sand filter & SWG combo at the end of 2019 so I plan on using that to start with and save a few bucks then when it dies which I hope will not be till after the 2022 season I will upgrade with better stand alone equipment.

Now for the beginning questions:

#1 I installed a Hayward wide mouth skimmer a few years ago (best mod & money ever spent) so I will reuse it on the new pool, I do not want the equipment on the North side of the pool like it is now due to being an eyesore so I am putting it on the South side of the Pool, where I am located our prevailing wind is out of the South 11 months of the year I know from research most recommend the skimmer opposite the prevailing wind & I can attest that works great but given my situation should I mount it on the South side or would it be worth it to run plumbing either under the pool or around it to keep the skimmer on the South side? I am worried about the additional length of pipe for the pump to deal with & if under there will be plumbing that is not easily accessible if I do ever have a leak.

#2 I am thinking about building the walls a little taller & put a taller liner in then what I need for the depth I want so there will be less splash out when the grandkids are jumping in & out & acting a fool, the only disadvantage to that that I see is when doing pool maintenance I will be reaching over a taller wall but I plan on building a bar/catwalk on at least the North side so I wont be reaching over that anyway & will probably do the same on the South side, is there any reason not to have an extra couple of inches of the liner above the water line? based on the liner form it looks like the cost would be the same to build a 54" or 56" liner.

#3 how close to the top edge of the frame should my liner bead be?

#4 is there any reason I should not build this pool?

I am sorry this was a long read & I left out a lot of details to keep it as short as possible but I promise I have really considered this long & hard, I believe I will come in around $3,000.00 & several man hours on this but I used to be a professional welder & fabricator and I enjoy building this stuff so the time is not such a big deal, I think this will be a permanent pool with some painting and a little extra maintenance.

I included some pictures of my current set up for reference, I do plan on demoing this pool next week.

Thanks,
Clint
 

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If it were me and I was doing a permanent pool I would hard pipe everything exactly like I want when building it..

#1
2 inch hard pipe
3hp vs pump CaliMar Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0
300 to 500 sq ft filter or a tr100 sand filter

Put the skimmer on the south side or have 2, one south and 1 north.. Run all pipe outside of the pool.. You do not have to trench the pipe but it looks better...

#2 I think whatever height you want is good

#3 I think you want the bead liner at the top, what are you going to use as a cap on the top?

4. I like it as long as the figures for the structure support are good to go.. a pool that size has about 40 to 60 tons of pressure pushing against the sides of the pool..

I would coat every piece of metal in Por 15 or find someone with a mobile bed coat system.. They both will stop all rust from forming.. I have used both and they both work, I have had a set of metal weights in my saltwater pool for 8 years covered in bed coat and have 0 rust.. :) Rust is cancer for pools, once you have it the pool will die it is just a matter of time..
 
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Is any of the back deck secured into the ground ? Seems to me it would be far easier to find 10 friends to move it, build a pre fab pool and then have the friends help move the deck back. A little fine tuning of the leg heights would be way easier in the new location than building a pool from scratch.

Either way, I'm IN. :epds:
 
If it were me and I was doing a permanent pool I would hard pipe everything exactly like I want when building it..

#1
2 inch hard pipe
3hp vs pump CaliMar Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0
300 to 500 sq ft filter or a tr100 sand filter

Put the skimmer on the south side or have 2, one south and 1 north.. Run all pipe outside of the pool.. You do not have to trench the pipe but it looks better...

#2 I think whatever height you want is good

#3 I think you want the bead liner at the top, what are you going to use as a cap on the top?

4. I like it as long as the figures for the structure support are good to go.. a pool that size has about 40 to 60 tons of pressure pushing against the sides of the pool..

I would coat every piece of metal in Por 15 or find someone with a mobile bed coat system.. They both will stop all rust from forming.. I have used both and they both work, I have had a set of metal weights in my saltwater pool for 8 years covered in bed coat and have 0 rust.. :) Rust is cancer for pools, once you have it the pool will die it is just a matter of time..
Thanks for the information as far as the top cap I just plan on using a good silicone caulk to seal between the bead receiver & top rail to keep water from getting between the liner & the metal.

I will have to look in to the por 15 but from my experience I think bed liner would be too expensive. We built some tanks 1 time & used an epoxy based primer that seemed to work real well & my plan was to try & locate some of that but it is nasty to work with.

Thanks again
 
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Is any of the back deck secured into the ground ? Seems to me it would be far easier to find 10 friends to move it, build a pre fab pool and then have the friends help move the deck back. A little fine tuning of the leg heights would be way easier in the new location than building a pool from scratch.

Either way, I'm IN. :epds:
I can move the deck but I really don't want it any closer to the house then it is now due to side yard access, I am also having a hard time locating a 14'x24' rectangle pool which is the perfect size for us in the location we have plus I really want to build it myself:cool:

You are very correct though moving the deck would be the easiest solution.
 
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Here is where I am at. I have fabricated both ends now need to fab sides & paint it all I think it's gonna work! I should have the frame built by the end of the week then I will order the liner to the exact size of the frame.
 

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Hey Kim, you were asking for pics of the other stuff in the yard, this is my take on a drive in theatre I built a 9'X12' movie screen with an attached swing set. When I was a kid all the drive ins had a swing below or to the side of the movie screen. 2nd pic is from where the pool is now & a couple of better pics of the swinging bridge.
 

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I have 1 of the long side frames built working on the other I am finally comfortable with ordering the liner, I am ordering the Tara Island Dream pattern, they originally told me 2 to 3 weeks but that was several weeks ago hopefully that is still the case.
We have steps for the lifeguard BTW otherwise she would destroy the pool. She gets in & makes 1 lap around my grand daughter & straight back to the steps whenever she feels it is necessary:paddle:
 

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I have the frame fabricated and in place all I lack is welding the corners they will be 45degree "cut" corners instead of 90, I was told easier to get the liner straight.
The frame is bowed in approximately an inch on both long side from the way I welded it I am banking on the water pushing them straight.
I have 2 1-1/2"x1/8" straps going across the the pool I am thing about adding a couple more sheet metal construction straps across to be safe.
Do y'all think I need a strap or 2 going long ways since it is only 14' wide?
The walls are 26ga sheet metal that I had broke 180 degrees with a 3" return to give rigidity for the bead receiver track to mount.
I am going to screw the sheet metal every 6" into the frame, that should stiffen the frame up a lot.
Liner expected to ship 4/27 to 5/4 🤞🤞🤞
 

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Order went in on the liner 4/18/22 with a 4 to 8 week lead time so I thought I had plenty of time to finish the frame the liner was delivered Sunday 5/1/22 what Great service! When I got off the phone with them from placing my order I told my GF that is the 1st time I have ever ordered anything over the phone from a company I have never done business with & felt good about it & I was right.
I am thinking about adding a return jet under my steps since there is always leaves gathering under them is there any rule to how low I can mount a return? I am thinking 1 foot from the bottom?
If the rain will stop long enough for me to finish welding the corners I hope to be filling it up next week🤞🤞🤞
I am not sure if I am allowed to mention the company that I bought the liner from name I know some forums frown on that.
 
You can put returns any where you want to. Some have even put them right at the bottom for the very reason you are seeing. Just make sure to take in account the size of the ring around the eyeball and having the ability to adjust it as wanted.

Lets get the liner in and make sure it is a good one before you say it out loud. You can tell people in PM if wanted until then.

Kim:kim:
 
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I couldn't wait had to put a couple of wall panels up to see how it will look from the inside & the outside. I think this may actually work!?!?! I should be putting water in next week:swim::paddle:
 

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