Several issues to address

GREAT!!!

First, when doing the CYA testing, we only measure at the lines. Fill to a line, look, still a dot, look to the next line. Your CYA is 80.

Assuming you still have a swamp...
At a CYA of 80, you can try to slam, but may be a challenge. Usually more difficult when CYA is above 60. However, you have a small pool at 6800 gallons and it may be ok. Decision is a toss up.

Either A) replace about 2-3000 gallons first, then slam, or 2) take your chances and slam at 80. Slamming at 80 may take longer, or not work, then you will be forced to replace some water to get the CYA level down to be able to SLAM.

Follow the SLAM process LINK -->SLAM Process

You will need muriatic acid to reduce your pH, and a bunch of liquid chlorine for the slam. I'd get 8-10 gallons to start.

If you decide to replace water, look for "no drain exchange" in this article:
I was under the impression that the chlorine level is too high. According to the stick color, the purple is darker than the chart on the container. I am going to send picture of the stick and of the swamp!! 😭
 
What test kit did you get?
I ran the test again (pool strips) and it came back on the mid -high level for chlorine this time. The test strips are 💩. As for the pump, the gauge is broken. Again. It is the 2nd one that has broken in the less than 24 mos that the pool has been installed. We r gonna disregard any reading from it. Everything would seem to indicate that changing the sand in the filter would be a good idea. However, the sand is as old as the pool and should not need changing, I wouldn't think. I am attaching pictures of the pool. In one of pictures, you will see that the river water looks better than our pool water. 😳 This makes me sad!! BTW, I swear that the pictures have not been enhanced. It is that green.
 
I ran the test again (pool strips) and it came back on the mid -high level for chlorine this time. The test strips are 💩. As for the pump, the gauge is broken. Again. It is the 2nd one that has broken in the less than 24 mos that the pool has been installed. We r gonna disregard any reading from it. Everything would seem to indicate that changing the sand in the filter would be a good idea. However, the sand is as old as the pool and should not need changing, I wouldn't think. I am attaching pictures of the pool. In one of pictures, you will see that the river water looks better than our pool water. 😳 This makes me sad!! BTW, I swear that the pictures have not been enhanced. It is that green.
 

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The only way we can help you is if you get a good test kit. Here are the recommended kits...Link-->Test Kits Compared

Without knowing actual results, we could make recommendations that make your situation harder.

Add 48 ounces of liquid chlorine per day until you get your test kit. This will stave off any more algae growth.

When you get your test kit, you will need to SLAM...Link-->SLAM Process

You cannot slam safely without a test kit.
 
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The only way we can help you is if you get a good test kit. Here are the recommended kits...Link-->Test Kits Compared

Without knowing actual results, we could make recommendations that make your situation harder.

Add 48 ounces of liquid chlorine per day until you get your test kit. This will stave off any more algae growth.

When you get your test kit, you will need to SLAM...Link-->SLAM Process

You cannot slam safely without a test kit.
I'm sorry!! I prolly wasn't clear. I just got the Taylor K2006. I posted my results a couple of posts back. I used the stick for the chlorine bec I had already put the test kit away
 
As for the pump, the gauge is broken

sand filter model E1001543S
You will want/need to replace the gauge. Hayward replacement is part# 101D-204D.

However, a decent fluid filled is not much more:

It is a standard 1/4" npt thread, if you decide to get one locally. I would bias toward using the same 0-60psi range. Many recommend 0-30, but that combo of pump and filter may run higher than 30.

You will want the gauge to work because it tells you when to backwash. Backwash and note the "clean" pressure...let's say it is 10. When the pressure rises 25%, or to 12.5, it is time to backwash. You will likely need to backwash many times during your SLAM.
 
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Why were there leaves in the pool?

Have you been running the pump 24/7 while trying to get this problem under control?
I know I personally can get by without a gauge, but you need to be able to judge how good the system is flowing. You can tell by how hard the water is coming out of the return as well as how much hoses are stretched etc.

If you can't judge this you really need a new gauge ASAP. A small 150 pound filter is going to clog up pretty fast when handling an issue like this. You'll probably want to backwash at least one a day and keep it running!

As far as chlorine levels, it's been my experience when trying to clear up a nasty green pool when you add chlorine it seems to stink like chlorine from it reacting with the nasties in the pool. To me, that suggests if you can't smell it., the chlorine level isn't high enough. I'm hoping others can comment on this because I've only dealt with this with a friend's pool twice when it was green. Personally I've noticed with a clean pool and a very high level of chlorine you couldn't smell it unless you put your hand in it and then smell your hand. With a green pool it stunk just by being near it with a good strong dose of chlorine. You could smell it coming off the water.
 
Why were there leaves in the pool?
We had some gusty winds yesterday and Sunday. Our yard is dense with trees. Because of the nastiness of the pool, the leaf net has not been on.
Have you been running the pump 24/7 while trying to get this problem under control?
Yes. 24/7
I know I personally can get by without a gauge, but you need to be able to judge how good the system is flowing. You can tell by how hard the water is coming out of the return as well as how much hoses are stretched etc.
Water from return jet is very very good. The hoses are in great shape.
If you can't judge this you really need a new gauge ASAP. A small 150 pound filter is going to clog up pretty fast when handling an issue like this. You'll probably want to backwash at least one a day and keep it running!
We have been backwashing at least every other day but mostly every day recently bec of the holidays and everyone being home, etc. Surprisingly enough, the most recent backwashed produced almost no green water despite the pool itself looking like something from a horror movie.
As far as chlorine levels, it's been my experience when trying to clear up a nasty green pool when you add chlorine it seems to stink like chlorine from it reacting with the nasties in the pool. To me, that suggests if you can't smell it., the chlorine level isn't high enough. I'm hoping others can comment on this because I've only dealt with this with a friend's pool twice when it was green. Personally I've noticed with a clean pool and a very high level of chlorine you couldn't smell it unless you put your hand in it and then smell your hand. With a green pool it stunk just by being near it with a good strong dose of chlorine. You could smell it coming off the water.
I had never heard that but I actually thought about the smell as I was going around to the pump last night. I remember wondering why it did not smell more like chlorine. Not sure what to make of that but it would make sense that the nastier the pool, the greater the smell.
 
Another update and apologies. Our toddler granddaughter is having surgery next Wednesday so I have not had the time to go through and read everything in the list but I did want to thank everyone who responded. I did another set of tests last night. The results are:

Free chlorine 4ppm
Combined chlorine 3ppm
pH 8.0
Total alkalinity 100ppm
Calcium hardness. 280ppm
Cyanuric acid. 70ppm

I have not been able to start the SLAM yet but I plan to go through the steps 2 or 3 more times bec there seems to be a lot of them and I want to be sure I do it right. My only concern is the CYA reading. It seems a little high to do an effective SLAM. My hubby and I are considering draining 2k or 3k gallons out to try and lower the CYA. I have not replaced the gauge yet either but I will. It's showing my base reading as 45!!! The water is just as green as ever. Can't see the second step on the ladder. *sigh* 😪 If anyone has anymore advice which would help insure a successful SLAM, I am all ears. Have a good day everyone!!

P.S. there was mention of our pool being abt 6k gallons. It is actually 8500. Does that make any difference in the steps or what are considered acceptable readings? Thanks again!!
 
P.S. there was mention of our pool being abt 6k gallons. It is actually 8500. Does that make any difference in the steps or what are considered acceptable readings? Thanks again!!
To get your CYA down to 50, you can replace 2500 gallons to get you to 50. What is the situation with water in your area. May help to replace most of the water.

Look in this article for no drain water exchange.


Add 1/2 a gallon of liquid chlorine a day until you start the slam, this should slow the algae growth.
 
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3ppm combined chlorine is a big issue.
pH of 8.0 is a big issue
CYA of 70 ppm isn't helping the situation.

You either need to dilute that CYA with fresh water or you're going to need something like 28ppm FC for several days. That's after you get that pH down to something reasonable like 7.4-7.6.

With a pH of 8.0 and CYA of 70 I don't think you can win the battle.

I'd say start with draining and refilling with fresh water to get the CYA down. Then work on lowing the pH using muriatic acid. Get it down to something like 7.2-7.4 for now. Then bring your FC up to something around 10-12.

What are you using for chlorine? I'd be using cal-hypo or bleach my self.
 
Missy,
Replacing about 1/2 your water would help tremendously & get your cya down to the 30’s which would make the fc level you need to maintain during the SLAM Process around 12ppm instead of 28ppm with your current cya. FC/CYA Levels
When you compare the current price of chlorine to the price of water it’s almost a no brainer.
You can help accomplish this water exchange by using a submersible pump & or by vacuuming to waste via the siphon method instead of relying on your pump & possibly running it dry. (There are several YouTube videos on how to do the siphon trick).
It would accomplish a couple things: reduce cya to make slam easier to maintain & remove alot of organic debris without going through your filter also making slam a little easier.
* note
Don’t drain your pool lower than 18”
& if it is buried at all don’t drain it lower than the surrounding ground.

You don’t want the liner or walls shifting.

Your newfound pool volume only effects how much liquid chlorine or other chems you need to use to achieve your goal not the actual fc level/goal you should target. Be sure to use your actual water volume in PoolMath & it will calculate the dosages for you. You can zero in on your exact water volume by seeing what your results actually are based on your dosages as you test.
Best wishes for your grandbaby! Your pool will still be there waiting for you when you get done dealing with that.
 
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3ppm combined chlorine is a big issue.
pH of 8.0 is a big issue
CYA of 70 ppm isn't helping the situation.

You either need to dilute that CYA with fresh water or you're going to need something like 28ppm FC for several days. That's after you get that pH down to something reasonable like 7.4-7.6.

With a pH of 8.0 and CYA of 70 I don't think you can win the battle.

I'd say start with draining and refilling with fresh water to get the CYA down. Then work on lowing the pH using muriatic acid. Get it down to something like 7.2-7.4 for now. Then bring your FC up to something around 10-12.

What are you using for chlorine? I'd be using cal-hypo or bleach my self.
Currently using bleach. Now, on the subject of draining. How can this be accomplished without damaging the sides of the pool? I've heard that you're not supposed to drain an AGP because it could collapse on itself. That sounds a little extreme so it's probably a case of my having heard incorrectly. I do think that I have really done all I can without draining the pool and starting again with fresh water. I guess I need to know the safest most effective way to accomplish this without damaging the pool.
 
Currently using bleach. Now, on the subject of draining. How can this be accomplished without damaging the sides of the pool? I've heard that you're not supposed to drain an AGP because it could collapse on itself. That sounds a little extreme so it's probably a case of my having heard incorrectly. I do think that I have really done all I can without draining the pool and starting again with fresh water. I guess I need to know the safest most effective way to accomplish this without damaging the pool.


Drain it a few inches and refill.

Mine is 2 inches below the return right now and it stays that way all winter. Just don't go crazy and it'll be fine.

Check your ph the day you refill but it wouldn't add chemicals right away as it may change on it's own over a few days. When you adjust ph and total alkalinity go slow and do it over a week. At least that's how I do it.
 
I've heard that you're not supposed to drain an AGP because it could collapse on itself. That sounds a little extreme so it's probably a case of my having heard incorrectly
You heard correctly. Most above ground pool walls are flimsy and need the water to stop them from collapsing inward. A medium sized gust could destroy the pool. If your Doughboy was designed to be partially buried, it's likely beefier. But either way, pick a calm weather day to drain and you'll be fine.
 

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