Can you log in remotely?? Try this. If so then it's a wifi issue at the house. Btw remote connection seems to work better. Also make sure your device is on the same wifi as orbi and not something else.
Screenlogic wireless no longer active
- Thread starter Kjhoffman
- Start date
from my phone app I can log in to my system either locally or or remotely (I can not log in to the demo server). From Windows I only see an option for local system, and I can log in no problem as well. At times I had issues with the "waiting to connect" but right now there are no connection issues.
At this moment it seems SL is getting correct state from the ET board, since I have watched the circuits change after start up (I always start on spa for 5 minutes to circulate the water out of pipes, then it switches to pool/high filter which I setup to do a bit of a deep clean). I did see it start on spa, and after 5 minutes the high filter circuit showed as on in SL. As a test I lowered the pump speed for "highfilter" from 2800 to 2790 in SL interface (Windows). In SL (phone and windows app) I see the setting of 2790 for my HighFilter, but you can see under power usage it still shows the 2800 from ET.
So Id say comms are only 1 way from ET to SL. If a protocol adapter issue I suspect the comms in both directions would be "down" ? I just dont want to invest in the wireless kit only to find out it was the PA. Is there any other reset on either the outside transceiver and/or the ET board?
At this moment it seems SL is getting correct state from the ET board, since I have watched the circuits change after start up (I always start on spa for 5 minutes to circulate the water out of pipes, then it switches to pool/high filter which I setup to do a bit of a deep clean). I did see it start on spa, and after 5 minutes the high filter circuit showed as on in SL. As a test I lowered the pump speed for "highfilter" from 2800 to 2790 in SL interface (Windows). In SL (phone and windows app) I see the setting of 2790 for my HighFilter, but you can see under power usage it still shows the 2800 from ET.
So Id say comms are only 1 way from ET to SL. If a protocol adapter issue I suspect the comms in both directions would be "down" ? I just dont want to invest in the wireless kit only to find out it was the PA. Is there any other reset on either the outside transceiver and/or the ET board?
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If it was a Protocol adapter issue you wouldn't be able to get in at all or if so your temps etc would all be blank and not respond to anything. Make sure you have the latest version of SL and you also can update your PC adapter via Pentair's website. The green wires on your com ports are the ones to double check. Those are the actual communication channels. Also I think maybe your scheduling and set up may be a bit over complicated. All the high speed etc and what not. Some of those cuircuts over ride others. Also scheduled if overlapping on your main pump can cause intermittent issues with what's running and what's not. Also spillway cuircut , is this a spa spill over line? The easytouch doesn't know the difference between spillway or normal pool mode as most spa spill overs run on the pool return side of an actuator. Do have your spillway on its own actuator? Also make sure you don't have two intelliflo pumps enabled in SL config. Next suggestion is turn off power to whole panel from main breaker in house for 5 mins and reset your indoor unit as well Again this is interesting. Just trying to cover all bases. These things can get frustrating
I had a similar issue not long ago where SL would work ok then not. Then ok then it every few days. Ended up being the indoor antenna power supply. It was over heating for some reason and would go out. Then after a while come back on. Never had a power supply fail ever. Has any other wireless devices been installed recently? I have also had to use guest networks on mesh systems to let SL pass through correctly. But if it's working ok then not maybe you have a temp firewall somewhere?? I would triple check your connections at the com ports on the outdoor and indoor components. Those wires are so tiny and break off right at the connection. Or simply come loose. I see this ALOT. Best of luck.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,782
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Have you had your Orbi mesh network for the 4 years your SL has been working?
Could Orbi have pushed an update to your network?
Screenlogic has many known problems working with mesh WiFi networks.
Could Orbi have pushed an update to your network?
Screenlogic has many known problems working with mesh WiFi networks.
Yes the more of these systems like Sonos and orbi etc I run into the more problems SL has working right. Pool tech is 10 years behind.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,782
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pentair EasyTouch is more like 20+ years behind. Like last century. The EasyTouch system was designed in the 1980s. Then when wireless app control became a thing Pentair kludged on Screenlogic with the Protocol Adapter when home networking was simple.
If @Kjhoffman has an old router like a Linksys he may find connecting it and creating a simple WiFi network to connect the EasyTouch to may determine if the problem is in his modern home network.
sorry i no longer have a old router,. But yes, the Orbi mesh has been active for the entire time the SL has been installed and have not had any issues till now. I'll check the connections tomorrow hoping for a broken/loose connection on the com port.
i did move all of the equipment (modem, router, SL system etc) into a new TV cabinet a few months back. But in order to test for interference I physically moved the SL antenna and PA about 4 feet outside of cabinet but it didnt help. I really cant tell when the issues started because everytime I looked at SL it was showing correct info. It was only recently when I tried to turn on the SPA and it would not come on that I realized it was down.
i did move all of the equipment (modem, router, SL system etc) into a new TV cabinet a few months back. But in order to test for interference I physically moved the SL antenna and PA about 4 feet outside of cabinet but it didnt help. I really cant tell when the issues started because everytime I looked at SL it was showing correct info. It was only recently when I tried to turn on the SPA and it would not come on that I realized it was down.
so i just went to SL to see if I could use the guest network, but I am unable to connect to controller again. (I did not change any settings and still on home network (not guest).So I will look at wires tomorrow.
thanks all..
Intellitouch was made first before easytouch. Same thing just no lcd display. Had to have an indoor or handheld panel to do anything. Yes they are all behind by years. It's quite annoying
I powered everything down, then checked the wire connections to the comm port. All seemed good. gave a slight tug on each, no movement. Gave each screw a very slight turn and all were tight. Powered back up. Noticed the VS pump had Err 000f flashing and then it cleared and started up. I guess the 000f was due to the power down/breaker off. Checked SL and same results, only 1 way comms from ET to SL. Only other mystery is I just noticed ET is reporting back to SL that pump speed is 2400 RPM. Not really sure why since I have nothing set to run at that speed.
my latest update: I now have a bit less hair 
. On Saturday, SL interface would not connect to the controller at all (windows app). I tried rebooting the router, powering off the indoor transceiver, resetting the PA, and every combination of those actions in various sequences. No matter what I tried SL would just not connect. I left the PA and transceiver out of cabinet, sitting on top of it, to avoid interference and/or heat issues. Still no connection. The LED indicators on the transceiver would flash rapidly, and then return to a solid green power light. then after a few seconds a flash or 2 followed by the same rapid flashing and back to solid green. This morning (Sunday) I noticed the rapid flashing has stopped. Power is solid green. Tx blinking yellow pretty consistently but not steady. maybe a few flashes per second a pause and then a few more etc. RX flashing green every second or 2. SL interface connects to controller immediately, and the waiting for connection no longer happens.
Sorry for the long winded synopsis but hoping it makes some sense to someone. As mentioned in earlier posts it seems to me the comms is only working 1 way (from ET to SL) but the issues above are confusing. At this point I think HW replacement is in order but I dont want to purchase and replace parts needlessly. I believe I need the wireless connection kit (2 radios). Will they work with existing PA or should I just replace ALL 3 components ? Any suggestions on best place to purchase and/or what I should expect to pay ? see wireless connection kits < 300.00 online but then I see others for > 700.
thanks in advance..
. On Saturday, SL interface would not connect to the controller at all (windows app). I tried rebooting the router, powering off the indoor transceiver, resetting the PA, and every combination of those actions in various sequences. No matter what I tried SL would just not connect. I left the PA and transceiver out of cabinet, sitting on top of it, to avoid interference and/or heat issues. Still no connection. The LED indicators on the transceiver would flash rapidly, and then return to a solid green power light. then after a few seconds a flash or 2 followed by the same rapid flashing and back to solid green. This morning (Sunday) I noticed the rapid flashing has stopped. Power is solid green. Tx blinking yellow pretty consistently but not steady. maybe a few flashes per second a pause and then a few more etc. RX flashing green every second or 2. SL interface connects to controller immediately, and the waiting for connection no longer happens.Sorry for the long winded synopsis but hoping it makes some sense to someone. As mentioned in earlier posts it seems to me the comms is only working 1 way (from ET to SL) but the issues above are confusing. At this point I think HW replacement is in order but I dont want to purchase and replace parts needlessly. I believe I need the wireless connection kit (2 radios). Will they work with existing PA or should I just replace ALL 3 components ? Any suggestions on best place to purchase and/or what I should expect to pay ? see wireless connection kits < 300.00 online but then I see others for > 700.
thanks in advance..
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,782
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
you are correct. I had powered off a few times in recent troubleshooting efforts, but I did not power it off last night.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,782
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Try specific sequences of powering.
Power the ET, antennas, and PA off. Then power ET on, let it get fully operational, then antennas on, then PA on.
Power the ET, antennas, and PA off. Then power ET on, let it get fully operational, then antennas on, then PA on.
The outdoor and indoor receivers are matching pairs only. They have to match the numbers on the yellow decals on them. Protocol adapters are interchangeable however your SL 6 digit xx-xx-xx will also change if swapped. The light sequence sounds normal honestly. Make sure the indoor equipment is at least a few feet from your router. Also not sure which generation of SL you have but they now all use high powered antennas. The older models did not have these. They now all use them since the intellicenter system now uses the same exact matching antenna system. However they don't use the protocol adapter with the intellicenter. They got rid of the dreaded rabbit ear antenna system (they were backfeeding power and blowing boards). Lol. Have you tried to update your protocol adapter. Also I know this sounds crazy but try and reinstall the app from fresh. I have had this work several times when things didn't make sensemy latest update: I now have a bit less hair
Sorry for the long winded synopsis but hoping it makes some sense to someone. As mentioned in earlier posts it seems to me the comms is only working 1 way (from ET to SL) but the issues above are confusing. At this point I think HW replacement is in order but I dont want to purchase and replace parts needlessly. I believe I need the wireless connection kit (2 radios). Will they work with existing PA or should I just replace ALL 3 components ? Any suggestions on best place to purchase and/or what I should expect to pay ? see wireless connection kits < 300.00 online but then I see others for > 700.
thanks in advance..
thx. Im not sure how to tell which generation of SL I have. the model number was wireless connection kit 522104. Purchased in 2019. The transceivers(s) do not have a "rabbit ear" antenna . The SL build is 5.2 and rel 738.0. On my mobile app it says version 2.1.0.67. not sure how to find version on the windows app. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app but same results. Not sure how to update the PA. I tried the reset button on it a few times. Does that update or is there another way to update it?
At this moment, windows app does not connect to pool controller (when I try to go to configure option it just says "connecting to screenlogic" and there is a yellow "light" flashing at bottom of screen). Mobile app does not connect either. In past troubleshooting it did connect and show correct state of circuits. Very frustrating...
At this moment, windows app does not connect to pool controller (when I try to go to configure option it just says "connecting to screenlogic" and there is a yellow "light" flashing at bottom of screen). Mobile app does not connect either. In past troubleshooting it did connect and show correct state of circuits. Very frustrating...
This symptom almost sound like your Protocol adapter may failing. Try this. Unplug the antenna via the plug underneath and kill power to the inside stuff. Or simply unplugg the wall wart. Then take your protocol adapter and unhook the cat5 and the green (r,y,g,b) com port off the side. Take your protocol adapter and shake it back and forth slightly. If you hear what sounds like pieces rattling around your PA has most likely blown something inside. These PA I believe pentair will ship you a new one if you call them and explain what's happening. Also just for sale of it make sure your com ports are plugged in correctly. They CAN be install backwards both ways by accident. also just double check your wires inside the com port via tiny flathead are not broken at the screw. I just had one today intermittently working. His green wire underneath then indoor antenna was broken but still barley being held in the com port. Those wires are comically small and fragile. You don't have to actually use that wire. You can use any 4 wire as long as each end match up properly in com ports. Another thing to try. When you kill the power to the indoor hardware after you plug back in go outside and shut your system down as well for 5 mins then reboot via breaker. Your protocol adapter shows a red light lit when powered correct? I know this is frustrating. I've had several PA go bad that seemed to be working. They will show a connecting to relay server error and just hang or show a cannot connect to server error.