Replacing Zodiac Nature2 Fusion SWG Cell - Additional Considerations

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C

CLampone

Member
May 21, 2022
11
18947
Pool Size
30855
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Upon opening my pool recently, I was seeing 2 error codes and the service light on my panel. Inspection of the cell showed buildup but cleaning revealed that the center rod had fully corroded at the top plate so replacement is required. I have read that replacement of the power cord is recommended. Is this universally the case even if mine shows zero signs of wear, corrosion, etc? Also, is it recommended that the Port Sensor be replaced too? I have not pulled this to investigate its condition, although no indications of malfunction have been experienced, but want to make sure if I'm going to these lengths (and cost) that I'm getting this done right.

Thanks in advance for any input!
 
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Welcome to TFP.

Always replace the cord when you replace the cell. Replace it all for a few years of troublefree operation.
 
Appreciate that, Allen! I figured it made sense to replace the cord, but wanted to run that by the forum. When you say "it all" are you including the flow sensor as well? I don't believe that has been showing any signs of trouble but, then again, not sure what those might be. Can/Should the sensor be checked, cleaned, etc? Images don't seem to indicate much to be cleaned and I have not received any error codes outside of the ones I get for the cell.
 
Jandy sells the cell replacement kit with the cell, cord, and sensor as a kit for a reason. For the most trouble free experience replace it all and your cell should run fine for its life.

When you try extending the life of components you will have more problems over the cell life.

Your choice.
 
Completely agree! However, try as I might, I have been unable to find a full kit ... only the separate components whether that be on ebay, amazon, etc which is why I was going back and forth on repalcing the "full package" ... do you happen to have a link you might be able to share for a full kit for the Nature2 1400?
 
ajw22 said:
Nope. I see them for the Aquapure which is the Nature2's cousin.
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Thanks, Allen ... I needed the Zodiac R0503000 Cell Replacement Kit for Zodiac Nature2 Fusion FSOFT1400 but didn't find a "formal" kit other than the cell with o-ring. But I pulled together my own kit and now have all 3 parts ready to go in today!

Once installed, is there a reset procedure to go through or callibration realtive to my drop test readings?
 
CLampone said:
Thanks, Allen ... I needed the Zodiac R0503000 Cell Replacement Kit for Zodiac Nature2 Fusion FSOFT1400 but didn't find a "formal" kit other than the cell with o-ring. But I pulled together my own kit and now have all 3 parts ready to go in today!

Once installed, is there a reset procedure to go through or callibration realtive to my drop test readings?
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I don't think so.

@PoolGate has a Nature2 system.
 

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PoolGate said:
Nope just put it in and go. Sadly, I have done it multiple times as these cells only last 3 seasons.
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Yeah, I'm entering season 4 so it's the exact timeframe you mention. Hoping that working with the TFP Forum, I can extend the longevity a bit! :)

So, here's a question having just set everything up and getting the system back up and running about an hour ago ... AquaPure salinity reading is showing 4.2 ... AquaChek test strip gives me about 3000 and Taylor drop test shows 3200. Any advice on how to handle this? Let the system run for awhile to "settle" (again, I just got the new cell, sensor and power cord installed and running an hour ago) or should I calibrate the sensor to my Taylor drop test result?
 
CLampone said:
Yeah, I'm entering season 4 so it's the exact timeframe you mention. Hoping that working with the TFP Forum, I can extend the longevity a bit! :)

So, here's a question having just set everything up and getting the system back up and running about an hour ago ... AquaPure salinity reading is showing 4.2 ... AquaChek test strip gives me about 3000 and Taylor drop test shows 3200. Any advice on how to handle this? Let the system run for awhile to "settle" (again, I just got the new cell, sensor and power cord installed and running an hour ago) or should I calibrate the sensor to my Taylor drop test result?
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For sure let it run for a few days and see where it levels out. Then if it is more than maybe 500 parts from the Taylor drop test you can calibrate.
 
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PoolGate said:
For sure let it run for a few days and see where it levels out. Then if it is more than maybe 500 parts from the Taylor drop test you can calibrate.
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Thanks again for the insights! ... ok, so I've left things go over the holiday weekend as I was out of town and after the wait (and some heavy rainfall yesterday) todays tests are coming in fairly consistent with Friday - AquaChek 3160 / Taylor Drop Test 3000 - with AquaPure still reading 4.2. Am I safe to assume that a calibration cycle is in order?
 
Yeah that's fairly far off. I'd do another k-1766 drop test and go with that reading for the calibration. Make sure you have right at 10ml.
 
Yeah, AquaPure panel reading dropped to 4.0 but with today's k-1766 drop test coming in once again at 3,000, I'm still seeing 1,000 parts diffference, so well over the 500 you indicated was acceptable. I'll do the calibration and, hopefully, things will be good to go. The cell is reliably making chlorine so no issues there.

One question realtive to the sensor given that it's new having been replaced with the cell and powere cord ... is this level of deviation "common?" I'm curious if I should be concerned that the sensor may be faulty and I should be looking to have it replaced?

Once again, thanks again for the insights!!
 
CLampone said:
Yeah, AquaPure panel reading dropped to 4.0 but with today's k-1766 drop test coming in once again at 3,000, I'm still seeing 1,000 parts diffference, so well over the 500 you indicated was acceptable. I'll do the calibration and, hopefully, things will be good to go. The cell is reliably making chlorine so no issues there.

One question realtive to the sensor given that it's new having been replaced with the cell and powere cord ... is this level of deviation "common?" I'm curious if I should be concerned that the sensor may be faulty and I should be looking to have it replaced?

Once again, thanks again for the insights!!
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I have never replaced my sensor it is still the original. It reads very close to the drop test. It really isn't a big deal unless it is so far off that the SWG stops producing because it thinks it is too high.
 
That was my concern as I did initially set it to 80% production and then it reset to 0%. After going through iAquaLink and resetting to 80%, things seem to be good and chlorine production has been steady. I wasn't going to replace it but I found one for a relatively low cost and figured I'd replace the whole package and start from scratch but kept the old one as a backup :)

I'll do the calibration now and continue to observe for deviations between it and my drop tests!
 
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