Rebuilding the pad - advice welcome

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I think noise is relative, but right off the bat I'd say it's going to be noisier due to the newly added resistance with the spring-loaded flow valves, a LOT more plumbing that is also 1/2 wider, and all that. As the previous reply said, I also believe those are DWV fittings. I wouldn't replace at this point though, I'd go with it until it leaks or needs needs further maintenance then replace with Schedule 40 as you can. I don't see your SWG in these pictures, I may be blind though.
I'd check your pressure coming out at the pool. If it's too low, you could get some jet nozzle fittings to narrow the output and increase back pressure a bit, it might also lessen the struggle of the motor to pressurize all of that new space in those pipes.
 
pawsbrake said:
I think noise is relative, but right off the bat I'd say it's going to be noisier due to the newly added resistance with the spring-loaded flow valves, a LOT more plumbing that is also 1/2 wider, and all that. As the previous reply said, I also believe those are DWV fittings. I wouldn't replace at this point though, I'd go with it until it leaks or needs needs further maintenance then replace with Schedule 40 as you can. I don't see your SWG in these pictures, I may be blind though.
I'd check your pressure coming out at the pool. If it's too low, you could get some jet nozzle fittings to narrow the output and increase back pressure a bit, it might also lessen the struggle of the motor to pressurize all of that new space in those pipes.
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Lol no, you don’t see the SWG, it hadn’t arrived yet. I believe it was just delivered this morning. It will get cut into the vertical loop. I was not familiar with the DWV plumbing, so yeah I’m sure I got the wrong thing live and learn.
 
Andrew_D said:
Those are DWV fittings, aren't they? DWV are not designed for pressure. Looks like a narrow glue area.

Andrew
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At first I thought you just meant the male threaded adapter in my filter was DWV but I went back to Home Depot today to buy a few more fittings and realize that everything they sell is DWV including the pipe so my entire pad is built with parts that are not designed for pressure. Now I don’t even know where to get proper schedule 40 pvc for pressurized work. How likely is this to be a problem down the road and where do I get the right stuff?
 
Bengi010 said:
At first I thought you just meant the male threaded adapter in my filter was DWV but I went back to Home Depot today to buy a few more fittings and realize that everything they sell is DWV including the pipe so my entire pad is built with parts that are not designed for pressure. Now I don’t even know where to get proper schedule 40 pvc for pressurized work. How likely is this to be a problem down the road and where do I get the right stuff?
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Home Depot has sch 40 fittings - it just may be on a different aisle. They also sell short pieces of sch 40 straight rather than purchasing a 8-10ft piece unless that is what you need.
 
Flboy44 said:
DWV- Nightmare bummer! Worth scraping everything and redoing? IMHO, no! The pipe/fittings are cheap but as you know the Jandy’s aren’t!
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DWV are not rated for pressure so it is best to change them out. The fittings around the Jandy valves can be cut off or pulled off with using a heat gun. My motto - if it’s worth doing then it worth doing it right.
 
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HermanTX said:
DWV are not rated for pressure so it is best to change them out. The fittings around the Jandy valves can be cut off or pulled off with using a heat gun. My motto - if it’s worth doing then it worth doing it right.
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Absolutely 100% agree with you! The poster had concerns about the cost of the Jandy’s. There are multiple ways of saving them, one being what you pointed out. He also said he was upgrading the pad from 1.5 plumbing. If the whole pool is 1.5 then an easy solution for the valves is to reuse with 1.5 fittings.
 
Bengi010 said:
You can remove fittings with a heat gun? If that’s the case I may redo everything but I still can’t find non-DWV parts
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HD usually has a large selection of Sch 40 PVC. Try Lowe’s. Or Ace Hardware
You can purchase a heat gun for under $50. Apply heat to the fitting that you plan to remove. It will be damaged so ensure the one you are heating is the correct one. If it is inside a fitting or valve then heat the ID of it until it softens, then take a screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers and start to twist it. Once it softens the it will roll right out.
See picture of 2 fittings I removed. If it is over a fitting you want to keep, then heat the OD of it and use screwdriver to pry it off.
IMG_6098.jpeg
 
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If you really are sure they don’t have standard pressure rated schedule 40, then look at Zoro.com. Excellent prices, extremely fast shipping, and over $50, free shipping. But even then, it’s only $5!
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Their site search can be, well, lacking at times. If so, a trick that works for me is to use Google for the particular fitting with zoro in the string.
 
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Well I’ve learned a lot on this project. My pool has been out of commission for a week after I messed up a union ( forgot to put the threaded end on first) and couldn’t get a replacement locally. Best thing I learned is about the the heat gun which I already had a nice one I use at work. That let me save the fittings and get the pool up and running this morning. There is still a drip at the filter but it’s minor. I may redo it all later but for now I’ve got to get the pool chemistry back in order. Thanks again to everyone
 
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HermanTX said:
HD usually has a large selection of Sch 40 PVC. Try Lowe’s. Or Ace Hardware
You can purchase a heat gun for under $50. Apply heat to the fitting that you plan to remove. It will be damaged so ensure the one you are heating is the correct one. If it is inside a fitting or valve then heat the ID of it until it softens, then take a screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers and start to twist it. Once it softens the it will roll right out.
See picture of 2 fittings I removed. If it is over a fitting you want to keep, then heat the OD of it and use screwdriver to pry it off.
View attachment 502188
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Well, I have a good heat gun and a stack of Jandy valves I cut out in my rebuild. I am going to experiment and learn!
 
IMG_1005.jpegWell I went ahead and redid it with the proper fittings, just couldn’t let it be. There were 3 leaks anyway. Let this be a warning to anyone thinking of doing their own plumbing, avoid the dwv fittings. Expensive mistake and cost me a whole Sunday too. Fingers crossed there are no leaks this time. I won’t test it until the morning.

Another psa I learned the hard way, when converting to salt water test your water before adding salt! There’s already some in there🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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Wow! Congrats!

How are you ensuring that the SWCG doesn't run if the pump is off? Flow switch should be secondary safety, not primary.
 
PoolStored said:
Wow! Congrats!

How are you ensuring that the SWCG doesn't run if the pump is off? Flow switch should be secondary safety, not primary.
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Honestly that was going to be my next post. The SWG isn’t connected to power yet so at the moment it’s not doing anything.

I have the pump connected to the timer at the moment but it doesn’t seem to like having its power cut off so I think I should wire it direct. I read something somewhere about wiring the SWG on one leg of the pump power so they both turn on and off together but I didn’t understand it. I’m a carpenter by trade, plumbing and electrical I only know enough to be dangerous.
 
I don’t really know, this is all new to me. I’ve read a few comments that variable speed pumps should have constant power. My experience so far is that as soon as power is restored it goes into priming mode then to whatever the speed it is set to for that time of day. Of course if it loses power for more than 24 hours the clock needs to be reset. I haven’t read that it does any damage to the pump, that would be unlikely.

So I could wire the SWG and pump together on the timer and set it to turn on and off to coincide with the pumps internal timer.

My hesitation is that if there is a power outage the analog timer just stops until power is restored so it will be out of sync by however many hours we lost power for. I may not notice something like that for days.
 
The superflo will prime at the speed set for priming, not the speed set for that time of day. (Take a look at the manual).

Pumps need to be on a separate GFCI breaker.

Electrical GFCI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I used a CR Magnetic current sensing relay, part number CR4395-EH-120-110-X-CD-ELR (pump is setup for 240, SWCG for 120). Here's how I wired mine. I put it in it's own box.

If the pump is not running, it will turn off the SWG.
csr.png
 
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