Rate My Chemicals

[Animal827]

I just got done with a new pool renovation. Basically, all new equipment and plumbing. I went away once I got my chemicals set, and I probably increased my SWG too much. When I returned, I had to replace some water loss as well. However, I think I am in a better place albeit a little high pH (which I added some dry acid). I cannot tell if my Alkalinity is too high or if my CH is too low (based on different threads and pool math). To save words here, you can view my signature and profile for more of my pool information.

Test	6/9/23 (Taylor)	6/14/23 (Taylor)
FCL	13	9.6
CCL	0	.2
TCL	13	9.8
pH	7.7	7.8
Alk	100	100
CH	140	120
CYA	80	70
Salt	3800	3600
Iron/Copper/Phosphates	N/A	N/A

I have some questions about color changing. Are we looking for a color change at all (Green to pink), or a deep color change (Green to dark pink/red)? I have putting an extra drop to make sure the color change is complete (e.g., completely clear or completely red). I am loving the accuracy and consistency of my Taylor kit, but I am already running low on some reagents. I know I can cut some of the samples from 25ml to 10ml, but is it as simple of changing the multiplier (e.g., .2 to .5 for FC) and sometimes number of drops? As an example, should I still be using 2 full scoops of R-0870? Does it need to completely dissolve...even if I shake for a 30+ seconds, sometimes I can see tiny crystals settling at the bottom?

Any other advice on chemical testing would greatly be appreciated.

 

[Texas Splash]

Your numbers look quite good. For the FC test, use the 10 ML water sample size. Add ONE generous scoop of powder, then mix and add drops until it goes clear. Divide the resul in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10.

 

[mknauss]

(which I added some dry acid)

Be careful using dry acid with a SWCG. The sulfates from the dry acid will attack the metal coating of the SWCG. Use muriatic acid.

 

[V___25]

Are we looking for a color change at all (Green to pink), or a deep color change (Green to dark pink/red)? I have putting an extra drop to make sure the color change is complete (e.g., completely clear or completely red).

I look for that bright Barbie pink. I just tested TA the other day and 8 drops changed it to solid pink but that 9th drop changed it to bright pink. The 10th drop didn't change anything at all so I went with 9/90.

 

[Animal827]

Be careful using dry acid with a SWCG. The sulfates from the dry acid will attack the metal coating of the SWCG. Use muriatic acid.

This I did not know, and really unfortunate since I have over 75lbs of dry acid. I actually do not have muriatic acid on hand. I will look into adding to my storage. If I am not mistaken, this is the one that should be diluted in water before adding to pool, correct?

 

[wireform]

this is the one that should be diluted in water before adding to pool, correct?

This is the one on the not recommended list.

 

[PoolStored]

If I am not mistaken, this is the one that should be diluted in water before adding to pool, correct?

No, muriatic should be poured directly into the pool over a return in a pencil thin pour slowly. Eye protection required. Pour downwind.

 

[proavia]

For the TA and CH tests.... continue adding drops until the color no longer changes. Subtract the last drop that did not change the color.

For some users the ending color of the TA test is pink, others Barbie pink and others more red-ish. So keep adding until the color doesn't change and subtract the last drop.

 

[Animal827]

I feel like I have been real good at maintaining my chemicals in the ideal range:

Test	7/7/23 (Taylor)
FCL	8.6
CCL	.2
TCL	8.8
pH	7.6
Alk	80
CH	170
CYA	60
Salt	3800
Iron/Copper/Phosphates	N/A

However, I cannot seem to get my CSI closer to 0. At 80F. My CSI is hovering around -.52. I have a vinyl pool, so I am not extremely worried, but I still have pavers all around the pool (including a wall with waterfalls). The way that I can see to increase my CSI (get closer to 0) is to increase my pH and CH and/or lower my Salt. This is not necessarily a problem, cause my pool enjoys being at 7.8 pH anyway, and I can increase the CH with Calcium Chloride. I am constantly refilling my pool with water (kids splash too much), so eventually the Salt will decrease (kind of like my CYA has been doing, but obviously not at the same rate).

I am wondering if there is anyone else battling their CSI while remaining within ideal ranges. Note: I leave Borates at 0 in Pool Math since I cannot measure that nor do I add it to my pool. Also, increasing Borates only makes the CSI decrease.

 

[proavia]

Let the pH rise to 7.8 or even 8.0

What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water?

 

[Animal827]

What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water?

I cannot beleive I never tested this...will report back tomorrow.

 

[PoolStored]

With a vinyl liner a very negative CSI is actually just fine. Low CSI is really only a risk to plaster, pebble, tile, and natural stone surfaces. Having a large margin before you get to scaling is good. Even if your PH accidentally gets very high you still won't have calcium scaling. Turn off CSI tracking.

 

[mknauss]

(including a wall with waterfalls).

What is that wall? Can you post a picture?

 

[proavia]

With a vinyl liner a very negative CSI is actually just fine. Low CSI is really only a risk to plaster, pebble, tile, and natural stone surfaces. Having a large margin before you get to scaling is good. Even if your PH accidentally gets very high you still won't have calcium scaling. Turn off CSI tracking.

Will a negative CSI above say -0.30 affect the plates in the SWG over the long term?

 

[mknauss]

A negative CSI has no effect on the SWCG.

 

[proavia]

A negative CSI has no effect on the SWCG.

Thanks Marty!

 

[Animal827]

Thanks for your patience while I take my time to post results and picture (please ignore the fence - the work was just recently completed for backyard renovation).

Test	7/11/23 (Taylor Pool)	7/11/23 (Taylor Fill Water)
FCL	9.2	N/A
CCL	.2	N/A
TCL	9.4	N/A
pH	7.8	7.5
Alk	80	60
CH	180	30
CYA	70	N/A
Salt	3800	N/A
Iron/Copper/Phosphates	N/A	N/A
Water Temperature	84F	N/A
CSI	-.300	N/A

It looks like if I increase my CH, I will finally get over -.300.

 

[Animal827]

I wanted to share some comparisons with my Taylor test kit to Leslie and the huge differences. I have to admit I recently added Calcium Chloride (Snow Joe Melt) and CYA over the past couple of days, so I can only assume that is why I am seeing a spike in FC and Salt from 9/1 to 9/3. However, is the crazy difference from Taylor to Leslie normal (i.e., FC, pH, and Salt)? Of course the guy at the pool store was trying to scare me about the high CYA and low TA (which they adjust based on CYA). I might break out the old LaMotte ColorQ Pool 7 (2056) to see what this numbers look like. They have been typically close to Taylor (except CH).

Some questions for clarification:
When aiming for a TA of 80, we should not be adjusting based on CYA, correct?
Does it matter if some of the reagents for the same test are from Taylor and TF?
Do you go by the expiration date on the Taylor reagents?
I cannot find a expiration date of the TF reagents, so it is safe they follow the same expiration timeline of their respective Taylor reagents?
Lastly, any comments or suggestions?

Test	9/1/23 (Taylor)	9/3/23 (Taylor)	9/3/23 (Leslie)
FC	8.6	10.4	7.6
CC	.2	0	.49
TC	8.8	10.4	8.09
pH	7.7	7.7	7.4
TA	80	80	61
CH	200	240	195
CYA	60	70	87
Salt	3600	4000	3162
Iron/Copper/Phosphates	N/A	N/A	0/.1/334
Water Temperature	76F	76F	76F
CSI	-.380	-.340	-.910

 

[Texas Splash]

is the crazy difference from Taylor to Leslie normal

Yes. Always trust your own testing.

When aiming for a TA of 80, we should not be adjusting based on CYA, correct?

No. The Poolmath APP takes care of that.

Does it matter if some of the reagents for the same test are from Taylor and TF?

PH yes because it may use a slightly different viewer and R-004 vs R-0014. I believe the others should be okay.

Do you go by the expiration date on the Taylor reagents?

Yes

I cannot find a expiration date of the TF reagents, so it is safe they follow the same expiration timeline of their respective Taylor reagents?

I'll ask @Sarah and Nate to confirm that one.

Your own testing from 3 Sep looks quite good.

 

[Animal827]

No. The Poolmath APP takes care of that.

I guess I mean, should I be aiming for TA of 80 or higher? I see the ideal range for TA for a vinyl pool with a SWCG is 60-80, but I guess I want to confirm that is TA and not "corrected" TA. I have also read ranges of 50-90, whixh seem to include acceptable minimums and maximums. Laslty, I have read that you should not lower TA just to reach a target number. Of course all my "readings" are from TFP, cause this is the way!

PH yes because it may use a slightly different viewer and R-004 vs R-0014. I believe the others should be okay.

I have not ordered the replacement of Taylor R-0004 yet, but are you saying the TF is R-0014 and there might be a different shade of colors to read pH (the expiration is not until April 2025, so I have time)?

Thanks for your quick responses. I have a had a completely clear and beautiful pool all season.