quick question about repairing a couple of small holes from rust

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Hope this works
VinnyinNJ said:
Just my opinion but if the walls are solid then I say repair whatever needs to be repaired and go for it!
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YES they do feel and look solid! and I am ready to patch with sheet metal any other area that might be extra rusty but TBH if that section is the worst, then I am not worried. Thanks for the vote of confidence!
 

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It’s hard to tell, does it feel solid everywhere but the area around the hole? If so you should be ok to just repair. You’ll be able to tell more when you get the liner out.
 
Mdragger88 said:
It’s hard to tell, does it feel solid everywhere but the area around the hole? If so you should be ok to just repair. You’ll be able to tell more when you get the liner out.
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Yes I believe so. Even the immediate area around the hole feels solid. There is no returns on liners (at least from the pool factory) so that is why I needed to be sure but again once the old liner is out I will repair any section that needs to be repaired but hopefully this is it and the wall foam should slow down any future rust and prevent any wall rust from piercing the new liner.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
We ❤️ pics around here!
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Me too! Also Im thinking about my original liner and it looks like a unibead/jhook setup but as I understand it, a unibead/jhook doesn't require a clip/track. Mine has a track. I do want to reuse this track so should I order a overlap liner or unibead?

Oh I think mine is a j hook (aka v bead?). Can someone confirm? I got my receipt and the pool is 27' by 52" so I think I need a 52" u bead liner OR j hook.
 

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I replaced my liner 2 or 3 seasons ago. While I was replacing it, I dealt with rust, mostly along the bottom edge of the pool wall. I (well my wife) used a grinder and wire wheel to clean off the loose surface rust. I then painted over it with POR-15 (I think). I know it was a POR product. It's expensive and sticks to everything but people that deal with rust told me to use it. I then painted over that with rustoleum. Where there were holes in the wall I riveted sheet metal that had been pre-painted with rustoleum to the pool wall. Adhesive would also work. I didn't think of it at the time. I then painted a heavy coat over all the seams, duct taped them and then installed the new liner.
 
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crokett said:
I replaced my liner 2 or 3 seasons ago. While I was replacing it, I dealt with rust, mostly along the bottom edge of the pool wall. I (well my wife) used a grinder and wire wheel to clean off the loose surface rust. I then painted over it with POR-15 (I think). I know it was a POR product. It's expensive and sticks to everything but people that deal with rust told me to use it. I then painted over that with rustoleum. Where there were holes in the wall I riveted sheet metal that had been pre-painted with rustoleum to the pool wall. Adhesive would also work. I didn't think of it at the time. I then painted a heavy coat over all the seams, duct taped them and then installed the new liner.
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing! Will look into POR-15.
Hey I just looked and there are so many options. Would you by any chance remember exactly which product you used?
Could it be this? https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45208...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
 
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From what I can see, You can use a j hook or unibead liner with the coping piece you have. Your coping just sits on top of the “j” or “U” but the “j/u” sits on the pool wall correct?
A regular beaded (hung) liner would require a bead receiver piece placed directly on top of the pool wall in which the liner would snap into.
Some people choose beaded/hung liner’s because you don’t need to remove the top rail to replace them. This comes into play if you have/plan to have a deck. A unibead can be used either way.
www.inyopools.com

Above Ground Pool Liner Types: The Good and the Bad

The four most common above ground pool liner types are the overlap, beaded J-hook/Unibead, and expandable. Find out which is the best for your pool.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
 
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Mdragger88 said:
From what I can see, You can use a j hook or unibead liner with the coping piece you have. Your coping just sits on top of the “j” or “U” but the “j/u” sits on the pool wall correct?
A regular beaded (hung) liner would require a bead receiver piece placed directly on top of the pool wall in which the liner would snap into.
Some people choose beaded/hung liner’s because you don’t need to remove the top rail to replace them. This comes into play if you have/plan to have a deck. A unibead can be used either way.
www.inyopools.com

Above Ground Pool Liner Types: The Good and the Bad

The four most common above ground pool liner types are the overlap, beaded J-hook/Unibead, and expandable. Find out which is the best for your pool.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
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Yep I am pretty sure now mine is a j hook or I can use a unibead. I won't convert to beaded with the special receiver piece b/c I am pretty sure this is the last time I will change the liner lol!!
 
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crokett said:
Sorry just seeing this now, yes that is what I used.
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np i ordered some from
amzn and will come tmr. and if i need more will get from aap. Also due to the crazy rain schedule, is it ok to leave the pool with no liner for a few days? the top rails and stabilizer tracks will still be on to maintain stability. long story due to weather, helpers schedule and rust that i need to fix. (plan to cut the old liner out and fix the rust when the weather is good this friday but wont fully do it until
monday bc of rain on sat/sun)
 
zea3 said:
I'm not sure I would trust an epoxy patch. I do not know how to do the calculations, but since you are a math teacher maybe you know. One of the properties of water is that it will always seek level. Round pools are structurally stronger because water pushes against the walls equally trying to seek level. When you have a weak point the water can force a tear in the metal and the force of water seeking level will split the wall. Water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon and a full 27 foot round pool holds about 17k gallons. You want a repair that can hold up to those forces.

As for the bottom of the wall, clean up the dirt and check the metal is sound or not. That may be your make or break point.
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Releveling, replacing liner and re-excavating into the slope this year and replacing the pool-surrounding deck since pressure treated wood isn’t what it used to be. If only surface rust🙏🏼on walls; what is the best way to treat?
 
Craftybrush said:
Releveling, replacing liner and re-excavating into the slope this year and replacing the pool-surrounding deck since pressure treated wood isn’t what it used to be. If only surface rust🙏🏼on walls; what is the best way to treat?
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Not sure but Im going to do the pool liner replacement TMR and drain and fix the walls today (17 inches left but we got 4 garden hoses going atm. I will wirebrush the rust off as best as i can and patch that hole and use POR-15 WITH a galvanizing spray and then the wall foams, foam cove and gorilla pad. I hope to post some mega photos Monday so wish me LUCK yallll!
 
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cl206 said:
np i ordered some from
amzn and will come tmr. and if i need more will get from aap. Also due to the crazy rain schedule, is it ok to leave the pool with no liner for a few days? the top rails and stabilizer tracks will still be on to maintain stability. long story due to weather, helpers schedule and rust that i need to fix. (plan to cut the old liner out and fix the rust when the weather is good this friday but wont fully do it until
monday bc of rain on sat/sun)
Click to expand...
I would say yes. A few years ago my pool sat for a good chunk of the winter empty. The liner was leaking. Once I figured that out I just let it leak down over the winter. If you're worried about the walls blowing down, you can attach straps to the windward side of the wall and anchor them. You might have to redo some of the sand on the bottom before you put the new liner in. I also strongly recommend a liner pad before the new liner is in, if you don't have one already.
 

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