Questions about my setup
- Thread starter jrsmith25
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It takes patience and making one change at a time when you have multiple problems causing what you are seeing.
25,
It should only take you a couple of minutes to unplug the current connections and then swap them over to the right connectors..
Thanks,
Jim R.
It should only take you a couple of minutes to unplug the current connections and then swap them over to the right connectors..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Ok that was incredibly easy. I can now say everytbing works perfectly and valves are all in the exact position you posted. Thank you all so much for the help. I do not think I ever would have figured that out on my own. I have about lost confidence in my installer and electrician.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,490
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
We are glad you have found our information helpful. Please, if you can, consider making a donation to TFP. We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donations are what keeps the forum operating without advertisements.
Support TFP!
25,
Glad you were able to get it all working like it should...
Do you take care of the pool yourself, or do you rely on a pool service?? If you have a pool service, you should think about just doing it yourself. Since you have a saltwater pool, it is just about as easy as it gets..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Glad you were able to get it all working like it should...
Do you take care of the pool yourself, or do you rely on a pool service?? If you have a pool service, you should think about just doing it yourself. Since you have a saltwater pool, it is just about as easy as it gets..
Thanks,
Jim R.
I will definitely donate. And I had planned on doing it myself. I assume salt is the same as when they say sodium chloride?
As far as temperature goes. I live in East Tennessee where it’s 90s in the summer and routinely gets in the 20s at night in the winter. Should I keep the heater on a schedule to keep the water at a certain temperature in the winter?
Also, as far as just daily pool nodes, I figured I would leave it in spillover mode since it circulates everytbing. Is that good enough or should I manually move the lever to give half to pool and half to spa?
Side note, leaving everything switched wouod not have worked because my pool setting only allows the heater to go to 90 while the so is much higher, so that would have been a big problem.
As far as temperature goes. I live in East Tennessee where it’s 90s in the summer and routinely gets in the 20s at night in the winter. Should I keep the heater on a schedule to keep the water at a certain temperature in the winter?
Also, as far as just daily pool nodes, I figured I would leave it in spillover mode since it circulates everytbing. Is that good enough or should I manually move the lever to give half to pool and half to spa?
Side note, leaving everything switched wouod not have worked because my pool setting only allows the heater to go to 90 while the so is much higher, so that would have been a big problem.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What model heater are we discussing?
If it is a gas heater the water temperature must be set above 68F to prevent corrosive condensation. That will cost you a lot in your gas bill.
Heater Condensation - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Running spillover mode all the time will cause aeration which will cause your pH to rise rapidly and require more acid additions to keep the pH in the 7s.
You should set a schedule to run SPILLOVER mode twice a day for 15-20 minutes to refresh your spa water and otherwise not have your spillover running.
Not sure I understand that.
25,
Who is this "they" that says sodium chloride?
I agree with Allen.. You should only run in the Spillover mode for just long enough to keep you spa water chlorinated. When in the Spillover mode, you pool returns do not work.. Pool returns help circulate the water in the pool and this circulation helps with skimming.
Schedule the Spillover mode twice a day for 30 minutes at a time..
Do your neighbors close their pools in the winter??
I assume you have a saltwater pool because of the device that is after your heater and before your Return valve. It appears to be a Saltwater Chlorine Generator or SWCG.. Is it not???
Thanks,
Jim R.
the heater is a Hayward H400FDN
Yes it’s saltwater
None of my neighbors have covers.
Yes it’s saltwater
None of my neighbors have covers.
25,
If none of your neighbors have covers, then all you need to do is let your automation run its freeze protection during the winter.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If none of your neighbors have covers, then all you need to do is let your automation run its freeze protection during the winter.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your heater manual is - https://hayward.com/media/akeneo_connector/asset_files/U/H/UHS_IO_manual_2020_2316.pdf
Page 32 says:
WINTERIZATION:
In moderate climates, the heater can continue to operate during short-term cold spells. Do not use the heater to maintain the water temperature just above freezing or for freeze protection. Care must be taken to avoid freeze-up in the heater. When it is used during freezing weather, the pump must run continuously. The heater is not warranted against freeze-ups. In regions where freezing temperatures are encountered, all water must be drained from the heater when it is out of service to prevent damage to the heater and piping. Draining the heat exchanger is recommended as part of the season’s shutdown procedures.
NOTICE: A heater damaged by freezing is not covered under the manufacturer warranty.
Also my neighbor said something about a sacrificial anode and my installer co formed we had it? Is that just standard now or does that make a difference?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Zinc sacrificial anodes are worthless in pools. There is no need for it.
Ok so sounds like I shouldn’t use it but on the other hand it sounds like I am susceptible to condensation corrosion. Lol
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, I think you are reading it wrong.
Season shutdown procedure means closing the pool for the winter.
Ok my latest issue. Fired up the spa and heated it up today. Isolating the spa only was MUCH faster. However it would hit 94-95 degrees and stop. Now that is what the app said, but it felt more like 84. Regardless, it felt good but nowhere near the 100 or so degrees you expect from a hot tub. I turned it off and on again several times, but it just would not heat up any more. If I let it sit for a few minutes and cool down, you could feel the hot water coming out of the returns again for a few minutes and it would stop.
It seems like either the thermostat is broken on the (brand new) heater or there is some secret setting I don’t know about that won’t let it get above a certain point. Like I said it read 94 degrees but there’s no way it was that hit. More like warm bath water.
Any ideas?
It seems like either the thermostat is broken on the (brand new) heater or there is some secret setting I don’t know about that won’t let it get above a certain point. Like I said it read 94 degrees but there’s no way it was that hit. More like warm bath water.
Any ideas?