Pool Store scam or truth?

[jblizzle]

Your CYA is a bit high and replacing up to half the water would make things a little easier. Although you could manage with the higher CYA ... just means your required FC levels are higher.

No more "bags of shock" or tablets as they may raise your CYA even higher.

So, you have to decide if you want to replace 1/3-1/2 the water first,
OR
just start to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process now.

Actually the first step should be using borax to raise the pH up into the lower 7s.

Use PoolMath to calculate dosages.

 

[Patrick_B]

Well that isn't too bad at all. I highly doubt 25k PPM TDS now but that's just the thing. You could make the water you just tested have that number and not one bit of difference in terms of those numbers or being able to swim in it. Someone needs to tell all the people's in the world to stay out of the oceans since they are about 35K TDS.

So with my snarky comments out of the way you need to do some 1/3 partial drains until you get the Cya to 40-50 tops. If it's a green pool with Algae make it 40 tops, 30 minimum. Then adjust the pH to 7.2-7.5 and do a SLAM on it.

 

[ping]

The pool isn't in too bad of condition but it does need some work asap.

Add some liquid chlorine, aka bleach, to the pool and target 8 ppm for a start. Then use borax to raise the pH to 7.2 about 15 minutes after adding the bleach. You need to keep the FC below 10 ppm or else the pH test will not be accurate. Use PoolMath for the calculations on how much you need to add.

The pool does need some water to be drained to lower the CYA but it is manageable for now. If you do decide to drain, only lower it a foot at a time at most. In the long run you will want the CYA to be between 30-50 for your climate.

After getting the pH into the 7's it's time to start the SLAM process. The SLAM will take less chlorine overall if the CYA is lower, but it can be accomplished with the level it is at.

Here are some links that will help along with my signature links:
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Chlorine CYA Chart
Recommended Levels
SLAMing Your Pool

 

[koffie]

Accorindg to the the chart Pool School - Recommended Levels your CYA is to high.
The only way to lower CYA is to replace an amount of water (about 50% in your case). You have zero chlorine and pH is to low.

Not sure what a normal pH level of tapwater is in USA, but here (Netherlands) it would be around the desired pH level. Assuming it is the same for you, it should allready raise your pH after draining some water and replacing with fresh water. If that's the case, I would correct pH first and after that start adding chlorine.
Take a look at the pool calculator : http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Hope this helps, please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Patrick_B]

The pool needs to be SLAMd, so a reduction in Cya should be done.

 

[sark76]

Would water like that be OK to be drained close to a tidal creek? Wouldn't be bad for the environment or anything right?

 

[Patrick_B]

My personal opinion is that it would not be harmful at all. If you BW there anyway, I don't see how a little extra would hurt anything. NJ may not agree with me, but I firmly believe it.

 

[chiefwej]

That water is perfectly safe to discharge into the environment.

 

[sark76]

Wouldn't kill any trees either?

 

[Patrick_B]

Not at all based on those numbers.

 

[sark76]

Thank you!

 

[jrguzmanr]

You can either to a partial drain and refill or you will use more chlorine, specially during the SLAM process. The first year I had my pool I opened it to 100 CYA, I decided not to drain, by the end of the summer it was around 80 (you lose CYA due to splash) and by the next swimming season it was at 0. I lose CYA over the winter, the know-it-alls here say it's due to some bacteria that consumes CYA, it's over my head so I just take their word for it. :bowdown: Knowing what I know now, would I partially drain my pool if my CYA was at 80? No, but that is my personal opinion.

EDIT: I just looked my first thread in this site and my CYA was at 80 initially, not 100.

 

[sark76]

going to drain...one foot at a time...hoping to drain about 40%- 50% over the course of a week. Then I'll check the CYA again. Going to used bleach, borax and baking soda from now on though.

 

[jblizzle]

You may never need baking soda or borax. That is why we do not use the BBB name any more.

The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS and not what someone wants to sell you.

 

[sark76]

You may never need baking soda or borax. That is why we do not use the BBB name any more.

The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS and not what someone wants to sell you.

Yes I understand, because when I replace all that water with tap water, I'll likely be raising my pH anyhow. My pH was off the scale low...nearly clear in the OTO test though...but i will test again after replacing the water...is this what you are trying to say to me?

 

[jblizzle]

Yup. Always test and adjust based on the results ... and don't try to stock up on products just because they start with B

 

[sark76]

Yup. Always test and adjust based on the results ... and don't try to stock up on products just because they start with B

gotcha' thanks for the tip! you can't measure pH below 6.8 with the TF-100 kit though right? But I mean the water was nearly clear in the OTO tests.

 

[jblizzle]

Are you saying the pH side looks almost clear? Or the OTO chlorine side looks clear?

 

[sark76]

Are you saying the pH side looks almost clear? Or the OTO chlorine side looks clear?

both actully.

 

[jblizzle]

I just saw your other thread about the OTO and FAS-DPD being clear ... so yes, no chlorine.

Your pH must be very low then I think. What is your TA test showing?