Pool start up wetedge signature matrix ( day three) cloudy, bubbles on surface

The Walmart Pool Essentials Chlorine is good stuff as long as it has a date code on the bottle within the last 3 months.



Stabilizer does not spoil. Get two 4lb bags.
Never buy chlorine for pickup, I bought some from pool store. I looked at the date and it was manufactured in the beginning of the year, I ended up not taking it. I will check homedepot later.
 
@onBalance, just to confirm IMG_9296.jpegadd the purge dose of sc-1000 right away? This is listed for contractor, instead of pool completely filled? Would I just pour it in to the water, or should I mix it in a bucket? I am not adding calcium.
 
The way I would do it is to add a little at a time, not all at once at the beginning and dilute into a bucket of water.
But you can always just follow the directions.
It is a safe product to use.
 
I am hitting about 40 on the lsi calculation which is max. My ph is 7.6 but my TA is 170, what can I do to lower it and maintain my ph?
 
I went to a different store today and they tested my ch at 224 and I’ve been getting 325, I wiped the tip and did another test and it came in about 220. Now I’m worried I need to be at 300, should I be adding CH?

Edit, did further test and I believe I’m at 300, I dislike the ch test, it’s hard to tell.
 
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I got my posts mixed up, I posted in other thread. I need help , woke up to cloudy water and bubbles on surface. I added chlorine about a hour ago 36 oz 12.5% I just tested again and it didn’t register. This is the first time adding chlorine
 

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I did an other test still didn’t register but when I clean the tube with tap water it changes to pink. Something is fighting the chlorine in the pool, I wonder if it’s the sc-1000 I added at fill.
 
Add 3ppm of liquid chlorine and retest after 15 minutes. Repeat until you have 3ppm of liquid chlorine.

Then retest every 4-6 hours and maintain 3ppm.
 
Add 3ppm of liquid chlorine and retest after 15 minutes. Repeat until you have 3ppm of liquid chlorine.

Then retest every 4-6 hours and maintain 3ppm.
I just got off the phone with Orenda and they mentioned since calcium wasn’t added, the sc-1000 is still in there and adding more chlorine would be a waste since it’s blocking it. What do I do?
 

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Keep adding chlorine as needed. The calcium level is perfect now, but note that it will slowly rise due to tap water additions and evaporation, which is why no addition calcium (chemical) should be added at all.
Brush the pool twice daily. Bubbles on plaster is normal and will disappear.
 
Keep adding chlorine as needed. The calcium level is perfect now, but note that it will slowly rise due to tap water additions and evaporation, which is why no addition calcium (chemical) should be added at all.
Brush the pool twice daily. Bubbles on plaster is normal and will disappear.
I didn’t add anything more since the dose in the morning, will it do anything or just be blocked by the sc-1000 . I even did a separate test by adding the pool water and adding the r-0870 and adding pure chlorine to it , it changed pink for a moment but when I added more r-0870 it didn’t change back. Will it be a waste to add chlorine at this point? I’m lost on what to do.

The bubbles were forming on the surface water.

I haven’t added any cya yet either per the startup guide.
 
When does the startup guide say to add stabilizer?

Keep adding chlorine until it holds.

You are over thinking and over managing this.
 
Keeping a good chlorine level is most important and will overcome and needs to overcome any temporary effect the SC1000 product might have on chlorine. Again, it is never wrong to maintain a constant level of chlorine in your pool. Make that your first priority.
 
Thank you, I finally got the water clear. I need to add dry stabilizer to bring up my cya a bit, I’ll do the sock method in front of the return, is there any special concern handling it? There’s a lot of warnings on it and I don’t see it discussed.

My ph is 7.6 but TA is 160ish how do I drop this? Recommended level is 80-100. Cant really drop it much then ph will cause csi/lsi in the wrong direction.

I still can’t figure out Ch, city says 224 and I can’t figure out the ch test I am getting inconsistent results. If it’s 224 shoujd I add calcium? The pool stores are coming back around that number but also coming in with the ta lower than I get.
 
Thank you, I finally got the water clear. I need to add dry stabilizer to bring up my cya a bit, I’ll do the sock method in front of the return, is there any special concern handling it? There’s a lot of warnings on it and I don’t see it discussed.

No.

My ph is 7.6 but TA is 160ish how do I drop this? Recommended level is 80-100. Cant really drop it much then ph will cause csi/lsi in the wrong direction.

Maintain your pH and your TA will drop over time.

You will find other peoples recommended levels and CSI are difficult to achieve. Go ask them how to do it.

I still can’t figure out Ch, city says 224 and I can’t figure out the ch test I am getting inconsistent results. If it’s 224 shoujd I add calcium? The pool stores are coming back around that number but also coming in with the ta lower than I get.

Post a complete set of test results from YOUR test kit.

Trust your test results and stop mixing in Pool Store test confusion.
 
No.



Maintain your pH and your TA will drop over time.

You will find other peoples recommended levels and CSI are difficult to achieve. Go ask them how to do it.



Post a complete set of test results from YOUR test kit.

Trust your test results and stop mixing in Pool Store test confusion.
FC- 2.8
PH-7.7- haven’t retested, but should be about 7.6 added muriatic acid
TA-160
CH-possibly 325? Mixed results
CYA-21 according to pool store since can’t read it and it should be right because that’s what I added with liquid.
 
How much liquid stabilizer did you add?

Add a bit more stabilizer to get it more towards 30 where you can read it.
 

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