Usually the CC is low if you are able to pass the OCLT and the water looks clear. If you pass, let the FC start to drop. It is safe to swim up to shock FC level.
Pool/Pump problems, very detailed, need help please.
- Thread starter Yori96
- Start date
Water is clear imo. I can see through and looks 'almost' Glasslike when the pump is off. Once it passes, should I test the pH again, as well as everything else? The page said nothing is really accurate during slam so I'm just curious.
There is no point in testing the PH until the FC level comes down below 10. Until then the high FC level will throw off the PH test results.
Perect, thanks Jason.
Now once the target CYA FC, when would I have to test for CC? Or rather if it passes the SLAM, the CC "should be" less than 0.5ppm, how can I tell if it isn't until I get the test?Ah, that's my bad,.... Just the pH test will be innacruate during SLAM, I shall test the rest then.
You can't measure the CC level until you get the right reagent. The odds are good that CC is low at this point, but you can't be sure without the test result.
Haha, you guys are all super safe here! I like it. I suppose then it's a risk - reward ratio for taking the chance at swimming in it after the test passes & prior to getting that reagent.
On a side note, I tested everything else again :
FC Dropped by 1.0~, I topped it up to 12 again.
CYA -> I got it all the way to the top and could see the dot this time, does that mean I took my FC test too high?
TA -> 170, I couldn't tell at what point it was orange vs red vs pink so I think I am a little higher due to being color blind but it can't be more than 150~ should I worry about dropping this below the recommended 120 right away?
CH -> 210, I may be a little high again, I need to get a natural UV light to put on my desk, my indoor lights are terrible and when I hold it to the sun my color-blindness kicks in and I have to do several re-takes lol, again though I'm vinyl so should I worry about dropping this right away too?
Edit : Would you recommend adding borates to an indoor pool? I'm thinking more for look/feel. (Just finished reading on them) My pool evaporates rather quickly to be honest... I'd say about a CM ever 3-4 days left uncovered, I assume that's normal but I didn't think I'd have to cover it any time I wasn't using it unless I want to re-fill it all the time lol. I'd like to just jump in all the time.
I suppose then it's a risk - reward ratio for taking the chance at swimming in it after the test passes & prior to getting that reagent.On a side note, I tested everything else again :
FC Dropped by 1.0~, I topped it up to 12 again.
CYA -> I got it all the way to the top and could see the dot this time, does that mean I took my FC test too high?
TA -> 170, I couldn't tell at what point it was orange vs red vs pink so I think I am a little higher due to being color blind but it can't be more than 150~ should I worry about dropping this below the recommended 120 right away?
CH -> 210, I may be a little high again, I need to get a natural UV light to put on my desk, my indoor lights are terrible and when I hold it to the sun my color-blindness kicks in and I have to do several re-takes lol, again though I'm vinyl so should I worry about dropping this right away too?
Edit : Would you recommend adding borates to an indoor pool? I'm thinking more for look/feel. (Just finished reading on them) My pool evaporates rather quickly to be honest... I'd say about a CM ever 3-4 days left uncovered, I assume that's normal but I didn't think I'd have to cover it any time I wasn't using it unless I want to re-fill it all the time lol. I'd like to just jump in all the time.
Bah, to continue! It dropped 1.0-1.5 lol -_- I guess we go for another day! I need to top up the pool though, should I just cover it today while having the pump running and keep on the testing, than top up tomorrow if it passes or should I top up now?
So I need to get that UV replicating light lol.. I think I was fine to begin with but I added more chlorine, only 53oz and now I'm at 12.5 when using the sunligh. The dull lights really play with the colors, especially when it's hard to tell color to begin wiht. Any specific uniits you guys would recommend?
Any specific uniits you guys would recommend?So I passed, currently letting the FC drop and became curious.. because a indoor pool can have CYA between 0 & 20, should I just keep my FC around 3/4 or should I try to keep it exact I only ask because there is no target for below 20.
You set set you CYA to the lowest level you can reliably test for ... like 30ppm. The minimum FC level is 7.5% of your CYA level ... it should NEVER be below that.
So I should bump my CYA up-to 30? I thought indoor pools were fine at 0-20 or are you just saying I should never let my FC drop below the 30PPM "minimum" level?
I ask because the tester only goes down to 30, you guys say it's +/- 10~ so if I can always see the dot on the bottom when the liquid is at the top and I keep the FC at the 30CYA minimum, will that be a problem?
I ask because the tester only goes down to 30, you guys say it's +/- 10~ so if I can always see the dot on the bottom when the liquid is at the top and I keep the FC at the 30CYA minimum, will that be a problem?
I am saying you need to be able to measure the CYA level. Depending on the kit you got, the minimum is 20 or 30ppm.
For an indoor pool you can have any level of CYA, the required FC ratio is the same. There is just no advantage to keeping it higher that the minimum you can measure.
For an indoor pool you can have any level of CYA, the required FC ratio is the same. There is just no advantage to keeping it higher that the minimum you can measure.
I edited before I refreshed.
I only ask because the tester only goes down to 30, you guys say it's +/- 10~ so if I can always see the dot on the bottom when the liquid is at the top and I keep the FC at the 30CYA minimum, will that be a problem? How do you be precise so that you know you have the right ammount of FC and you're not under since you're not allowed to do that. I just want to not have to SLAM again is where my head is at right now I suppose.
If you can see the dot, you don't know if you have 5ppm or 25ppm. If you always assume 30ppm, that FC level could be pretty harsh if the CYA was really 5.
I was actually just going to ask about that,(I believe harsh) the wife and kid say the chlorine burns their eyes right now (for me, it doesn' tbother me) I assume that has to do with the FC? So then I guess my question would be "how do I make sure what my CYA actually is, especially if I can see the dot and my kit only goes down to 30 before it's useless" Aside from that, how hard is the CYA to keep consistent once I get the FC down to a reasonable level, if I can't have my FC ever below "x" then is it easy to maintain "y" I guess is what I'm getting at.
Then the other question, water looks crystal clear all day, can see the bottom, if I had 20/20 I could see the pebbles on the bottom (there are a couple) but when we swim, it seems pretty blurry, is that because of the FC too or what would cause that? Lack of light?
Then the other question, water looks crystal clear all day, can see the bottom, if I had 20/20 I could see the pebbles on the bottom (there are a couple) but when we swim, it seems pretty blurry, is that because of the FC too or what would cause that? Lack of light?
Simply raise your CYA to 30 and then you can test it ... Not sure how many other ways to say this. The CYA should stay pretty consistent for the season unless you drain a bunch of water.
The CYA FC chart in Pool School shows you the minimum FC to maintain. Being indoors it will not drop as fast.
It is always blurry underwater if you are not wearing goggles.
The CYA FC chart in Pool School shows you the minimum FC to maintain. Being indoors it will not drop as fast.
It is always blurry underwater if you are not wearing goggles.
That's what I thought you'd say, I just wanted to be sure. (I'm probably way over thinking.)
My FC dropped to 8.0 in the last two days.
My pH is now testing at 8.0+, I'll do another sample in proper light in the morning just to be sure and add Acid as required, I feel like for how stable you guys are saying an indoor pool should be, my numbers fluctuate a lot lol.
I'll re-test everything else tomorrow too now that it seems to be stabilizing.
My FC dropped to 8.0 in the last two days.
My pH is now testing at 8.0+, I'll do another sample in proper light in the morning just to be sure and add Acid as required, I feel like for how stable you guys are saying an indoor pool should be, my numbers fluctuate a lot lol.
I'll re-test everything else tomorrow too now that it seems to be stabilizing.
So working on my pH, can I do CYA at the same time? (I remember reading that there are two steps you can't do on the same day but I Can't seem to find that again) A little upset my pH went up above 8.0 in three days again, I think it's the jets in the water that have the top circulating all the time (I can visually see ripples everywhere) or do you guys think it could be something else?
I bought Bioguard Stabilizer 100 from the pool store, the msds says it's 100% pure and I couldn't find it anywhere else so it'll do for now.
Sorry for making you word things differently but the way I was reading it was like "you could do this" when I was looking for a point blank, raise it to 30 so you can test it ect ect.
I bought Bioguard Stabilizer 100 from the pool store, the msds says it's 100% pure and I couldn't find it anywhere else so it'll do for now.
Sorry for making you word things differently but the way I was reading it was like "you could do this" when I was looking for a point blank, raise it to 30 so you can test it ect ect.