Pool/Pump problems, very detailed, need help please.

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Adjusting the PH is easy. Lowering CC varies, sometimes easy, sometimes not so easy.

CC is a major irritant. Swimming is not recommended when CC is above 0.5. Keeping CC under control is often an issue for an indoor pool.
 
I have two sunlights and 9 windows in my pool room, lots of light during the day. I have test strips they gave me, will that be accurate at all for the time being? I just got called to work again for monday and may be gone for a few weeks, seeing as I have never tested the pool, neither have I shown the wife... Nor have really balanced or anything at all... With the current high levels, will my pool be fine to just keep running until I get back? Is there a way to ensure the liner ect wont be damage/they can use it while I'm gone? This is stressing me out now lol.
 
If there is glass in the windows, then there isn't any UV striking the pool.

Test strips are inherently inaccurate and imprecise. They are better than nothing, but not by a whole lot.

If you lower the PH a little and don't swim and add a little bit of chlorine daily, the pool should be stable for a few days. If you want to swim you have several things to do.
 
Definitely glass in the windows lol, bah... Well I want to let my kid swim but I don't want to hurt him or the liner... I could be leaving for up-to 3 weeks so if I turn everything off is that good or bad? Kind of bad timing to get called to work, I checked my test kit order date and it's supposed to be here on Monday. I leave Sunday night,. :/
 
I suggest assuming the pool store test results are correct, lowering your PH to 7.6, and adding 5 ppm of chlorine before you leave. Three weeks is too long to be certain that it will be stable the whole time, but the odds are fairly good on an indoor pool.

You can use PoolMath, see the link in my signature, to calculate quantities for the adjustments.
 
Ok, so I did some pool math with the numbers I got from them, however I have come to see that they had me sitting at 85900 Liters, with all my measurements I am sitting at 18.2k gallons, which is only 68894.5Litters.... I'm going toi pick stuff up right now and will come back and do as you recommend as per this or if you feel I should just do the chlorine part and lower pH I will do that too.

I did PoolMath and found this :

For FC : It wants me to add 105oz of 4.25% Bleach. (The bleach I find doesn't have % on it, how do I know the quality?)

For pH : It wants me to add 48 oz of muriatic acid (I'll find some locally)

For TA : It wants me to add nothing -> to lower TA you reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH.
Note: Adding baking soda will also raise your pH just a little.

For CH : Add 256oz by weight or 204 by volume of calcium chloride
or add 339 by weight or 389 by volume of calcium chloride dihydrate. (I had to add 1.5" of water that had evaporated, should I do this still?)

For CYA : Add 73 by weight or 76 by volume of stabilizer or add 189 of liquid stabilizer. to lower CYA you replace of the water with new water.

I'll be back with all the natrual ingridients.
 

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Ok, so I got 20* 31.45% Muriatic Acid & 4.25% Bleach, should I add the dosages that they are recommending and be content for up - to 3 weeks? :/

It wants me to add a stabilizer but I couldn't find any calcium chloride dihydrate. :/

I have my numbers set to what the sheet says from the pool store (aside from gallons which I figured out) and my goals were all what the page recommended aside from CYA I changed to 30 due to the recommendation for indoor pools.
 
Yori,
earlier in your thread, other folks have pointed you to pool school.
We really cannot stress enough to Start with the ABC's of pool chemistry and use that as your guide.

I have copied the immediately relevant info regarding the chemistry from the ABC's in Pool School here for you for easy reference. Since you have a vinyl liner pool and are indoors, Please note the items in red

Hope this helps.

There are five chemical levels that every pool owner needs to keep track of:

FC - Free Chlorine - A sanitizer which keeps your pool water safe and free of germs. Chlorine must be constantly replenished. (level depends on CYA)
PH - Acidity/Alkalinity - Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.5 to 7.8)
TA - Total Alkalinity - Appropriate levels help keep the PH in balance. High levels can cause PH to rise. (60 to 120, sometimes higher)
CH - Calcium Hardness - Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. (220 to 350, vinyl lower - my note, your CH of 165 is fine)
CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)
 
I completely understand pool school and it's requirements and reading, I'm more so stressed because I dno't have my own way to test it at this moment, I'm going off other numbers and wanting to make sure what I DO do, prior to laeving for 3 weeks due to work will keep things manageable so I'm not thinking about it while I"m doing important things. I appreciate your feedback and i'm sorry I've been asking so many questions, I wouldn't care if I wasn't leaving, or rather I'd be a lot more patient.
 
Maybe get some small plastic bottles and fill them with bleach, get your wife to tip a bottle in every second day, or say Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, so if you are going away for 10 days get 5 bottles etc etc. You'll have to work out how much bleach you will need for one dose and put that in the bottle. Leave them all on the shelf and go from there.
 
Cactus345 said:
Maybe get some small plastic bottles and fill them with bleach, get your wife to tip a bottle in every second day, or say Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, so if you are going away for 10 days get 5 bottles etc etc. You'll have to work out how much bleach you will need for one dose and put that in the bottle. Leave them all on the shelf and go from there.
Click to expand...

This is a good idea. Likely what I would do in that situation.
 
Ok, only had a 4 day gig so I'm home now, got my kit and was making sure Everything was there And seem to be missing R-0003, my mixing cylinders don't have water levels on them either, just lines.. Just curious if I need the R-0003 for the cc or. If I just use the yellow cap bottles.

 
Yes you need R-0003 to test the CC.
What do the yellow bottles say they are? I can not read anything in your picture.

What are those 2 big red bottles for? I assume pH, that is way more than you will need before the chemicals start to go bad I think.
 
You can not accurately know the CC without the R-0003.
The OTO (R-0600) test is just a quick sanity check.

Just start the SLAM process if you need to. The CC test is not that important until the very end.
 

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