One of the 2 pool lights is not working. It looks like it is trying to come on but is almost dark. The other light fixture is bright. The spa light is a seperate switch and it works. I just cleaned my filters today and may have sprayed some water into something?
Pool lights
- Thread starter Fishy1234
- Start date
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,222
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Fish,
What kind of lights do you have? Sounds like it's probably a bad light but I'd check the junction box wiring just because it's pretty easy. A photo would be helpful. Not likely that you sprayed water into anything that would cause this.
Chris
What kind of lights do you have? Sounds like it's probably a bad light but I'd check the junction box wiring just because it's pretty easy. A photo would be helpful. Not likely that you sprayed water into anything that would cause this.
Chris
I need to find my paperwork, but everything is Pentair. Thinking intellibright or something like that. I will confirm.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,222
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
OK you have Intellibrite LED lights. They're pretty expensive. Normally the two in the pool are wired together in a junction box that uses 12vac from a pool LED transformer. Since your other lights work the transformer is working so it's either the light itself is bad or less likely but easy to check the wire nut connection has come loose over the years. Replacement lights are close over $700 each. And this is a trade-grade product so you'll need to get an authorized service to replace it to have a full warranty.
Wish I had better news. Maybe one of our experts has a better solution @ajw22 @Jimrahbe ?
Chris
Pentair Intellibrite 601003 5G Color 120V. Discontinued according to pentair website.
So now what? Can I operate safely with one light working?
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,222
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yep, you do have the 120vac version. Sorry but I'm not familiar with this one. It does not use the transformer that most of the newer ones do. Not sure what your options are but one of our experts should know and respond. They're both pretty active here. I would not be concerned about running one light only though.
Chris
Chris
- Dec 13, 2020
- 778
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Sigh... You should talk to a Pentair expert, but it looks like the updated version of this light is 602188, and I'm seeing prices over $1000. You might find a pool supply place with old stock.
A couple of notes:
1) Your light is actually 120 vac, not 12. There's no external transformer for this version (only inside the light itself). Again you should listen to experts, but failed light might be a leaky light. 120 volts in contact with water is never good. If it were my pool, I'd not turn them on again until the faulty light is physically disconnected at the junction box.
2) Price of these lights can vary pretty amazingly with length of wire. If your installation can use one of the shorter lengths, it will save some $$$.
A couple of notes:
1) Your light is actually 120 vac, not 12. There's no external transformer for this version (only inside the light itself). Again you should listen to experts, but failed light might be a leaky light. 120 volts in contact with water is never good. If it were my pool, I'd not turn them on again until the faulty light is physically disconnected at the junction box.
2) Price of these lights can vary pretty amazingly with length of wire. If your installation can use one of the shorter lengths, it will save some $$$.
Good grief, just my luck. If it is a flooded light, wouldn't the gfci trip?
- Dec 13, 2020
- 778
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Theoretically, yes. Would I rely on that? No. Disconnecting at the junction box is a 10-minute job a most. Again, I'm just a pool owner. I hope one of the experts will chime in.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,847
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There is no bulb in the light. There is an electronics circuit board with LEDs on it that overheats and burns out components. Some people have done board level repairs.
Read Pentair LED Pool Lights - Further Reading
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,847
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I have a gfci outlet on the control panel, and the main breaker providing power to pool equipment is gfci. Admit that the last time I actually tested either one is several months ago.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,847
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What gets me is that building code requires electric outlets to be at least 8 feet away from the water. So how is it possible to put 120VAC light right next to the water?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,847
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If they required every outlet by the pool to be GFCI protected by a GFCI CB at the electrical panel then they could allow outlets closer to the pool. That has a significant cost to the consumer over allowing the use of GFCI outlets neat the pool. But GFCI outlets only protect what is plugged into them so you need to keep the outlet itself well away from water.
Cost? I mean, how much is your life worth? I'm not convinced that the pool lighting is safe.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,847
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You live around the dangers of 120V AC in your walls, ceilings, and floors.
GFCI has proven to be safe and reliable. GFCI is designed so if it fails, it fails open with electricity off.