Please Help Me

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YEAH!!! i found a pool place that has better testing than the one i usually got to. so....here are my numbers.

FC=6
CC=0
PH=7.6
TA=290
CH=150
CYA=180-200

I am going to plug them into the pool calculator. I cannot wait to here from you all. :p
 
dbabz31,

ASSUMING those numbers are correct, you can concentrate on one thing only......lowering your CYA to 50-60ppm. A CYA of 180 -200 is completely unmanageable so I would ask you to stop worrying about ANYTHING else until you get the CYA down.

As you know, that can only be done with partial drains and refills. So, if you drained and refilled 50% of your pool and then did the same thing again, your CYA would be 50 and we can help you clear your pool from that point.

Again, I see no need to go the the pool calculator yet. Your CYA is unmanageable and your only goal would be to reduce your CYA to 50-60.

ASSUMING those test results are correct.
 
so correct me if i am wrong. if we drain 50% of our pool, we refill it and then take another sample? or do we sample the water prior to the refill? when we do this, i am going to take a sample of the pool that is trucked in too.

am i right in saying that the reason the pool is still cloudy is because the cya is bound to the FC, so that even though the FC is high, is it bound to the cya?

once i get the cya down, i am going to be shocking it right? (using the cya/chlorine chart and pool calculator).

i am going to vaccum the pool to waste tonight in order to drain the pool. we will call and get water asap.
thank you for your information and help.
 
on last thing that i need your input on before i drain and refill and drain and refill, just to have to drain it again to winterize it.

Is it possible to drain the pool and winterize it, and to wait for the winter snow to help refill the pool? or is this something we must correct first? just a thought before we fork out the money for new water. thanks.
 
Is it possible to drain the pool and winterize it, and to wait for the winter snow to help refill the pool?
Click to expand...
Of course. In fact, that's what I would do if it were my pool. You probably only have a week or two of swimming left so just winterize it and face your issues in the Spring.

You will have a swampy pool in the Spring but you do now anyway. That'll give you some more time to read and learn more in pool school and tackle the problem aggressively in the Spring.
 
So drain. The pool. Wintlerize it and don't do anything else as faras chemicals go? This will not hurt the pool will it? I just am thinking why waste the grand to drain and refil it twice if we need to close it up anyway. As long as it won't hurt the pool we will probably do that. Thanks. I need to cancel my water truck coming tomorrow.
 
well i am draining the pool today. going to take a sample of the water today, and then after the 2 trucks and waiting overnight, i will take another sample to get tested tomorrow, unless my own kit arrives. is it possible that if my cya comes down to 100, that i could still go throught the shock process instead of having to drain and refill a second time? we do not plan on draining it again. we would rather drain it to winterize it...but it my cya comes down, i wouldnt mind shocking it if that is possible (even if the cya does not come down to 50).

in your opinion, is it rediculous to shock it before winterizing it because it is going to need to be done it the spring anyways?

thanks again, everybody for your information and patience with me. it is so nice knowing that you guys are all available and willing to help.
 
Once you get the test results tomorrow we can advise you if it's feasible to shock at the CYA level. There's really no use in us guessing until we know that number.

Do you have a tracking number for the new kit?
 

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Just MHO...instead of spending money on trucking water in...close the pool and buy a tf100 in the spring. Seriously...much better than lugging samples back and forth
 
My kit arrived today, i remembered in a previous post something about testing the cya and not using so much solution. How do i do that?
Is it something about diluting it with distilled water? I did take a sample today prior to my kit arriving.
their numbers were:
FC 6
PH 7.6
TA 300
CH 150
CYA 110-120

When i received my kit, i wanted to try it out. here is what i got

FC 6.6
CC 0
PH 7.6
TA 280-290
and then i was reading how to test the cya and thought i remembered seeing something in a post about letting you guys know first.

let me know if there is a way as to not use so much solution. thanks.
 
Looks like the store had good numbers so far. I think I'd trust the pool store on the CYA as well and turn my attention to whether now is the time to try to deal with this. What is the pool temperature?

Not sure what you consider swim-able but I am not happy at less than 85 degrees. Given your climate you are probably good for 80 or so. If you are near that now, and spend another week clearing the pool, you may still not get a chance to swim. Then, it may be that you will open up to a clear pool or maybe the green monster will return by then and you'd start all over even after clearing it now. You'll need to weigh those odds along with the cost to continue. The kit will be in hand when you need it in the spring.
 
we are going to just close it up. wait til spring. i hope i remember everything you all have taught me. thanks for the support. one last question. i know i am not supposed to worry about TA.

If my TA is high now, when we go to open the pool in the spring, with the rain and snow, it should come down, right?
Dont run my heater until all chemical level are correct?
 
dbabz31 said:
My kit arrived today, i remembered in a previous post something about testing the cya and not using so much solution. How do i do that?
Is it something about diluting it with distilled water?
Click to expand...
Diluting for the CYA test can use tap water. It's only when you're diluting for a chlorine test that you should use distilled water.

Here are two links to instructions that (among other things) talk about diluting for the CYA test. If you are very concerned about using less R-0013, look in the first link for the instructions that say "OR, mix a smaller sample to begin with:"
Water testing instructions on one page
CYA instructions
--paulr
 
Hello everyone,
Well after some thought we decided to try to fix our pool. The algae kept growing and growing. So now we no longer have a green pool, but a blu/white milky pool. I have tested our water and here are the results.
Wondering if we need to add muriatic acid at this point. Would love any suggestions. I am thinking that with our FC being HIGH, that the PH result could be inaccurate, is that correct to think?

FC=35
cc=0
PH = greater than 8 ( it took 15 drops to get it down to 7.4)
TA= test did not change from green to red, but green to yellow. it did that at the pool place before too. I believe it is from the high chlorine levels. don't know if it makes a difference, but it took 13 drops to change it from green to yellow. I added another drop of thinsolate(?) as the booklet says to if the solution does not change to red. It made no difference.)
CH=120
CYA= a little over 100, about 110.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Don't worry about fixing the pH until the FC gets under 10.

The TA is 130 then. It doesn't have to change to red it just haas to change.

If you think you've killed all the algae you should run the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test). Once you pass that you can let your FC come back to your normal level.
 
ok, the new pool season is here! after reading all the previous posts i wrote...i cannot believe i didn't understand what i do now. We ended up shocking our pool and closing it up last fall. prior to closing it, our water was clear. We knew our cya levels were probably still high, but decided to drain the pool,close it ip and allow for rain and snow to refill it for us and hoped that the cya would decrease. So now here we are again. First our water is clear and sparkling. We tested our water when we first opened it up and our cya was still way over 100. We had a lot of rain here and waited to take a sample of water in to be tested. I took a sample 2 days ago and these were my readings.
FC=5
CC=0
ph=8
TA=190
CH=240
CYA=150
Today I tested our FC. Its came out 4. After all the water replacing that we did last fall and over winter, how can our CYA still be so high? What is my next step? Should we leave the CYA alone and make sure that we watch our FC level? Also, if our CYA is high...do we need to maintain our FC at a higher level like 17? According to the chart on the website that is about the target level for FC when CYA is above 100. ( I just kind of took the trend on the chart and came up with 17). Thanks for your help. Will be waiting to here back.
 

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