Pentair Diverter valves rebuild kit part number

It is often less expensive to buy a complete new diverter and use it as a parts donor then buy the parts individually.
 
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It is often less expensive to buy a complete new diverter and use it as a parts donor then buy the parts individually.
Well, my PB is covering the cost. Since they don't know what their own crew hundreds of miles away from them installed, they are asking for photo and part number.

The issue I'm having is since the valve isn't closing fully, the pool looses water from the three laminars up to the height the water trickles out of the laminar into the laminar bucket down the drain hole to the yard.

With all the leak companies that came, they say they cannot pressurize due to the valves not closing fully but after many months, this appears to be the only place the pool can be leaking water.
 
Well, my PB is covering the cost. Since they don't know what their own crew hundreds of miles away from them installed, they are asking for photo and part number.

The issue I'm having is since the valve isn't closing fully, the pool looses water from the three laminars up to the height the water trickles out of the laminar into the laminar bucket down the drain hole to the yard.

With all the leak companies that came, they say they cannot pressurize due to the valves not closing fully but after many months, this appears to be the only place the pool can be leaking water.
The diverter for those valve is 270075, for the 1.5" - 2" Pentair valve. The valve with the actuator on the horizontal pipe uses a 270056 diverter, 2"-2.5" valve.
The likelihood of new valves not shutting completely off is very small.
 
Yeah what @1poolman1 said... These valves are so simple that "rebuilding" isn't really a thing. You can replace o-rings, but when they fail water leaks out of the valve, not across the sealing surface. The diverter gates 1poolman1 gave are the only other replaceable part. Chances of that being bad from new are tiny.

If this has been the situation since the pad was new, a possibility is that whoever did the plumbing slopped some PVC glue on the valve seat. If so, swapping out internal parts won't help. The valve body is ruined.
 
Yeah, either I got duds or something is up because when the waterfall is off (valve closed), there is water leaking down the sides of the waterfall. Since that goes back into the pool, most likely not where the leak is coming from but suspect the same thing is happening for the valve to make the water leak down the laminar drains.

It's funny, the plumber said quite the opposite, he said all valves always leak and that it is hard to ever get them to seal. I don't know, this leak issue has been very frustrating. Different leak companies coming out, all doing some epoxy sealing around fixtures but none can pressurize the system citing the valves are not tightly closing.

One question, if I open them up, wouldn't I need a rebuild kit still or o-rings to put them back together again?
 
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It's funny, the plumber said quite the opposite, he said all valves always leak and that it is hard to ever get them to seal.
This is false. He's either misinformed or fibbing out of self-interest. Jandy/Pentair/Hayward valves will seal 100%. And do this for years and years and years before service is ever needed.

If anything fails, as mentioned by Gene, it'll be the housing o-ring due to rebuild damage, or the shaft rings from thousands of rotations.
One question, if I open them up, wouldn't I need a rebuild kit still or o-rings to put them back together again?
No. Not unless you go at them with a knife. The components are tougher than you'd think.
 
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@tradewinds You have intellivalves.

These are unlike the "old" style and you are relying on the LED column to tell you the position of your diverter.

Have you, or anyone else, removed those and used the original diverter handles to ensure the rotation is full-stop and then watch for the leak behavior you've described?

If not, and were I a betting man, I'd wager a blushing sum those are not provisioned to close the valve fully.
 
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@tradewinds You have intellivalves.

These are unlike the "old" style and you are relying on the LED column to tell you the position of your diverter.

Have you, or anyone else, removed those and used the original diverter handles to ensure the rotation is full-stop and then watch for the leak behavior you've described?

If not, and were I a betting man, I'd wager a blushing sum those are not provisioned to close the valve fully.
As mentioned, the PB and several leak companies have come in. Unless they haven't done that or don't know how to correctly, I would say they have all tried using service mode to position the LEDs for full stop.

In fact, the actuator at the top had water in it and had to be warranty replaced. No one can say how water could have got in. Not PB or Pinch a Penny who got the warranty work order from Pentair. The diverter valve was tested by them and didn't show any signs that it would have leaked and drove pressurized water into the actuator. At that time with the handle back on and valve at full stop, the leak continued. They also suggested a kit replacement if it is leaking.
 

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This is false. He's either misinformed or fibbing out of self-interest. Jandy/Pentair/Hayward valves will seal 100%. And do this for years and years and years before service is ever needed
If he's a crummy plumber, the new valves frequently not working is his truth. :laughblue:
 
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In fact, the actuator at the top had water in it and had to be warranty replaced. No one can say how water could have got in. Not PB or Pinch a Penny who got the warranty work order from Pentair. The diverter valve was tested by them and didn't show any signs that it would have leaked and drove pressurized water into the actuator. .
That leak into the IntelliValve actuator is a common failiure mode of the IntelliValves. A tear down of the unit finds the two case half’s lack any seal or gasket to keep water from entering the actuator internals.

Running a bead of silicone along the case joint should prevent water from getting into the actuator. Otherwise it will probably happen again.
 
OP, so you've removed the intellivalve on the waterfall and replaced with the handle, close it by moving handle to 12 or 6, and it still leaks?

Have you tried also closing each 2-way laminar valve after your 3-way and confirmed it stops the leak from the laminar?

It's highly unlikely that these valves are leaking unless the plumber gobbed glue all over inside the valve body.

If you haven't tried the above, do that first. Then, open the waterfall 2-way and check for debris or glue boogers. Then do the same for the primary 3-way that precedes all other returns.

You can also easily move diverter stems from body to body if you wanted to donate your secondary laminar valve guts as a swap with the two primary you claim are leaking, without ordering parts.

When opening the diverters, remove all screws and then tap the screw "flanges" on the lid 1/8" to rotate the lid clockwise or counter. Then you can tap upward on the lid flange and not need to jam a screwdriver to lift it. When putting the screws back, reverse first to line up the threads, then drop it in. Hand screwdriver is best.
 
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Maybe they used valve part number 263047, which is a 3-Way Solar Valve w/ drain-down, CPVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside).

The Solar Drain Down Valve has a hole in the center of the diverter to allow solar to drain down.

Can you verify which valve model/part number they used for the three-way valve?
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263026 3-Way CPVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside).

263027 2-Way CPVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside).

263028 3-Way PVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside)

263029 2-Way PVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside).

263035 3-Way CPVC 1-1/2 in. (2 in. slip outside).

263036 2-Way CPVC 1-1/2 in. (2 in. slip outside).

263037 3-Way PVC 1-1/2 in. (2 in. slip outside).

263038 2-Way PVC 1-1/2 in. (2 in. slip outside).

263047 3-Way Solar Valve w/ drain-down, CPVC 2 in. (2-1/2 in. slip outside).

263042 Check Valve CPVC 2 in. (straight 2-1/2 in. slip outside).
 

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