Hey!
I bought a house in Texas near Ft Hood.
The house came with a stained, green and awkwardly shaped (and oddly built) pool.
I guess it’s a kidney…
It’s all new to me so any tips on how to identify all the gear is helpful.
I know I have a Hayward Aqua Logic controller with a Hayward GLX-LOCAL-P-4 AquaLogic keypad and a Hayward TurboCell pro T-cell-15.
As for the pump, filter and heater I’ll need to check tomorrow. I was told it’s a sand filter but they replaced the content with “glass”.
Current issues..
I opened it last year by shocking, cleaning, skimming and scrubbing the pool. After some testing I added about 240lbs of salt to bring it up to 3200ppm. I added a 40lb bag later in the season to bring it back up to 3200ppm after it dropped (party and heater going).
I never closed the pool thinking Texas never gets that cold…big mistake. The pool is set to protect itself by running the filter, heater and aerator/spa bubbles if the outside temp drops below 35ish.
I wised up and lower the heater max temp to 70 (I believe), basically to keep it from running 24/7 and using electricity and natural gas.
When it was time to swim the panel showed 2800ppm and the pool had been running and filtering all winter…
I threw in some shock then salt the next day and went back to the skimming and cleaning I had followed the end of last year.
Salt showed 3100 after 160lbs of salt, the numbers looked right and Memorial Day was the first big event (including running the heater to bring the temp up since it was rainy and cold the weeks prior.
After the party the pool was cloudy, not green, just…milky. Checked salt, 1800ppm.
I added salt, 160lbs but the pool turned green.
Water testing showed the salt at 1900ppm. I backwashed the filter, shocked, cleaned, scrubbed etc etc…I added 120lbs of salt and 3000ppm.
I guess the salinity tester I ordered will give a real answer, but I’m also thinking the salt was a wash based on the amount of chlorine needed for the party and the heater running for hours.
The question is, what’s a normal amount of salt should be added to normalize after shocking fir season opening?
The surface inside the pool has staining (rust, some black marks etc) scrubbing doesn’t help at all.
Is there a way to fix this with draining/painting/going broke?
The pool and spa are the same height with a spillover. Last year it was normal for them to be under the spillway but the same height whether the filter was on or off. After the winter, the spa drops 4ish inches when the filter is on.
Why?
The main waterfall works fine, there’s four smaller “dribblers”, there’s a diminishing amount of water from the furthest from the main waterfall to the closest which doesn’t work at all.
Best way to troubleshoot?
The entire plumbing system is like something out of Dr. Seuss. There’s no two parallel lines, even the cement base is off by like 15 to 20 degrees…enough to be overtly visible just by glancing.
How insane is it to re-run all the plumbing to clean it up and make it…symmetrical?
How much more insane is it to consider removing it all and starting with a fresh cement pad?
I bought a house in Texas near Ft Hood.
The house came with a stained, green and awkwardly shaped (and oddly built) pool.
I guess it’s a kidney…
It’s all new to me so any tips on how to identify all the gear is helpful.
I know I have a Hayward Aqua Logic controller with a Hayward GLX-LOCAL-P-4 AquaLogic keypad and a Hayward TurboCell pro T-cell-15.
As for the pump, filter and heater I’ll need to check tomorrow. I was told it’s a sand filter but they replaced the content with “glass”.
Current issues..
I opened it last year by shocking, cleaning, skimming and scrubbing the pool. After some testing I added about 240lbs of salt to bring it up to 3200ppm. I added a 40lb bag later in the season to bring it back up to 3200ppm after it dropped (party and heater going).
I never closed the pool thinking Texas never gets that cold…big mistake. The pool is set to protect itself by running the filter, heater and aerator/spa bubbles if the outside temp drops below 35ish.
I wised up and lower the heater max temp to 70 (I believe), basically to keep it from running 24/7 and using electricity and natural gas.
When it was time to swim the panel showed 2800ppm and the pool had been running and filtering all winter…
I threw in some shock then salt the next day and went back to the skimming and cleaning I had followed the end of last year.
Salt showed 3100 after 160lbs of salt, the numbers looked right and Memorial Day was the first big event (including running the heater to bring the temp up since it was rainy and cold the weeks prior.
After the party the pool was cloudy, not green, just…milky. Checked salt, 1800ppm.
I added salt, 160lbs but the pool turned green.
Water testing showed the salt at 1900ppm. I backwashed the filter, shocked, cleaned, scrubbed etc etc…I added 120lbs of salt and 3000ppm.
I guess the salinity tester I ordered will give a real answer, but I’m also thinking the salt was a wash based on the amount of chlorine needed for the party and the heater running for hours.
The question is, what’s a normal amount of salt should be added to normalize after shocking fir season opening?
The surface inside the pool has staining (rust, some black marks etc) scrubbing doesn’t help at all.
Is there a way to fix this with draining/painting/going broke?
The pool and spa are the same height with a spillover. Last year it was normal for them to be under the spillway but the same height whether the filter was on or off. After the winter, the spa drops 4ish inches when the filter is on.
Why?
The main waterfall works fine, there’s four smaller “dribblers”, there’s a diminishing amount of water from the furthest from the main waterfall to the closest which doesn’t work at all.
Best way to troubleshoot?
The entire plumbing system is like something out of Dr. Seuss. There’s no two parallel lines, even the cement base is off by like 15 to 20 degrees…enough to be overtly visible just by glancing.
How insane is it to re-run all the plumbing to clean it up and make it…symmetrical?
How much more insane is it to consider removing it all and starting with a fresh cement pad?
