New to pool chemical math, advice?

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Antlo said:
The difference is just how long the kit will last (amount of reagent) or does it test for different things?
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There are more of the reagents that homeowners use the most in the tf100 which is why it was created. The both do all the same tests.
You can buy refills/replacement reagents for what you run out of as you need them.
 
Antlo said:
The difference is just how long the kit will last (amount of reagent) or does it test for different things?
Click to expand...
The TF kits from TFTestkits are generally curated to be more in line with the way TFP does things - lots of FC testing, CYA tests etc (so bigger bottles of the 871 and 0013 reagents that are used for those). The Taylor kits themselves have the same tests, just not 'tweaked' the way we tend to use them.
 
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Antlo said:
The difference is just how long the kit will last (amount of reagent) or does it test for different things?
Click to expand...
The 2005 kit does almost the same tests with smaller reagent bottles. In the **2005**, the FC test is DPD in a comparator, whereas the 2006 is FAS-DPD in test vial that changes color at the point where FC is reached. You add a powder reagent that changes the color to pink, and then titrate the endpoint to clear with another reagent. It is considered easier to use and is more accurate for different needs, including SLAM and daily testing across a range of FC levels that can bleach out other kits. The C designator on any of the kits simply denotes the size of the reagent bottles, 0.75 oz for the non-C and 2 oz for the C.

Also, when you go to purchase chlorination liquid, read and be armed with the info in this link Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading . Last time I shopped liquid chlorine at Walmart, they still had bleach from last May on the shelf. Older bleach loses strength over time, and you don't need the extra confusion of having to guess why the bleach you just added is not yielding the expected results due to old bleach. This is a lesson I learned recently and I have been using TFP methods for 3 years.

The reason that I didn't learn it sooner is that I usually maintain my FC with a saltwater chlorine generator, swcg and rarely use it to raise FC levels outside of winter weeks where the swcg doesn't operate. Recently I added liquid chlorine that I had from start of winter to raise FC to "catch up" from being lazy coming out of winter into spring and was confused when the pool didn't respond as intended.
 
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Also, until your kit comes, a simple OTO tester will at least tell you if you have FC and a more accurate pH than a test strip. That kit is the the comparator with a chlorine reagent and a pH reagent. It is not accurate, but can at least reassure you that you have FC in the pool after adding liquid chlorine and allowing it to circulate for 30 min. This is the tester you have in your attached pics.

BTW, Walmart also has Chlorinating Liquid near the gardening/outdoor section. I paid $5.68/gallon. Check the date codes! If you can't figure them out, post a pic and I'll help you decode it. Up to date chlorine should start with "24 XXX" which means it is from 2024 and the three numbers are the days of the year.

As for taking samples to the pool store. I'm of the mind, with the rest here, that it is a waste of time. The reasons vary, typically because the testing they do uses equipment that is either not accurate for a particular test, not calibrated properly even if it is accurate, or testing bias introduced by the tester themselves. The local place near me is a mom and pop pool store. They do a lot of testing the old fashion way, with a pipette and chems, but their glassware is dirty, their non-reagent testing machines are almost certainly not calibrated, and on any given day, 1 of three people will do the testing.

Just for science sake, the first summer after our pool was built, I did my weekly testing on the Taylor 2006-C Salt, and then took a sample to them. They were most often off on FC, CYA, and TA, and closest ever across the summer on CH, pH and salt. I have done the same over a few weeks with the local Ace Hardware which uses only a fraction of the sample I bring in a small disk, which is inserted into what is most definitely the dirtiest device. They are often off by many factors on everything, even pH, which is the simplest test imo. Overall, in general, most pool stores want to sell you product. If most did it in a responsible and efficient manner, they would only be selling salt and chems for opening and closing pools.

The takeaway is, its fine if you want to let the pool store test. Just know that the results are suspect relative to you doing your own. Not that you won't/can't make mistakes, but if you do, you post here and people can help see if you need to correct something.
 
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jsnpckns said:
The 2005 kit does almost the same tests with smaller reagent bottles. In the **2005**, the FC test is DPD in a comparator, whereas the 2006 is FAS-DPD in test vial that changes color at the point where FC is reached. You add a powder reagent that changes the color to pink, and then titrate the endpoint to clear with another reagent. It is considered easier to use and is more accurate for different needs, including SLAM and daily testing across a range of FC levels that can bleach out other kits. The C designator on any of the kits simply denotes the size of the reagent bottles, 0.75 oz for the non-C and 2 oz for the C.

I would suggest one of the ones recommended above and returning the 2005 unopened personally. Though that is my preference in seeing the breakpoint in the vial go clear rather than wrestling with the comparator.

Also, when you go to purchase chlorination liquid, read and be armed with the info in this link Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading . Last time I shopped liquid chlorine at Walmart, they still had bleach from last May on the shelf. Older bleach loses strength over time, and you don't need the extra confusion of having to guess why the bleach you just added is not yielding the expected results due to old bleach. This is a lesson I learned recently and I have been using TFP methods for 3 years.
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The OP said the kit was a K2006. Or did I miss a post?
 
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They wrote "Well, darn! I ended up buying the smaller kit. I haven’t checked the cost of replacements yet." I assumed that meant the 2005. That is a bad assumption if they meant 2006 vs the 2006 C. I apologize.

If so, Antlo, ignore what I said about sending it back, but the rest of my explanation stands for the differences anyway. The 2006 will get you through this season easily, unless you have to slam for an extended period. You can always purchase chems a la cart from Taylor as well to refill individual tests fairly easily.
 
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jsnpckns said:
They wrote "Well, darn! I ended up buying the smaller kit. I haven’t checked the cost of replacements yet." I assumed that meant the 2005. That is a bad assumption if they meant 2006 vs the 2006 C. I apologize.

If so, Antlo, ignore what I said about sending it back, but the rest of my explanation stands for the differences anyway. The 2006 will get you through this season easily, unless you have to slam for an extended period. You can always purchase chems a la cart from Taylor as well to refill individual tests fairly easily.
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That was me jumping in after I realized I could have gotten a bigger kit. It wasn’t OP.
 
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Thanks for all the replies! I've added liquid chlorine for now using pool math & am going to test again in a couple hours to make sure my FC level is above 0 (there was previously no chlorine left in the pool, lol). I also grabbed some CYA and other basic chemicals like baking soda. Hopefully by this time next week the water will be clearing up!

edit: Cl around 3 and pH 7.8 after adding chemical so hopefully we level out and smooth sailing!
 
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