New Taylor k-2006 kit results
- Thread starter Coach_1
- Start date
Today's results. TA increased since last checked. Haven't added any pucks or anything to raise that. Just added 10% liquid chlorine. Adding 24lbs of HTH calcium hardness increaser today to get the ch up. Will wait and then add 2lbs of conditioner for the cya. Does that sound right?
Fc-4
CC-0
pH-7.6
TA-140
CH-180
cya-25ish
Fc-4
CC-0
pH-7.6
TA-140
CH-180
cya-25ish
I think I'm getting there. Let me know how I'm doing. After the storms last night the numbers weren't too bad.
FC-2.5 (added a gallon of bleach)
CC-0
pH-7.6
TA-120
CH-220 (added 4lbs of calcium chloride)
CYA-30 (added 1lbs yesterday and no change)
Starting to get the hang of the testing and it's taking a lot less time. Debating on the speedstir but that seems just lazy. Does it help with accuracy? If so I'll order one.
FC-2.5 (added a gallon of bleach)
CC-0
pH-7.6
TA-120
CH-220 (added 4lbs of calcium chloride)
CYA-30 (added 1lbs yesterday and no change)
Starting to get the hang of the testing and it's taking a lot less time. Debating on the speedstir but that seems just lazy. Does it help with accuracy? If so I'll order one.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,854
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Those numbers look pretty good. It's great you caught that FC already because as our weather warms-up this season, falling below the target makes it easier for algae to bloom. Looks like you're doing fine.
How do storms affect pool water chemistry? We got an inch of rain last night and severe weather is expected all week. We've been lucky and dodged a couple tornadoes so far.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,854
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just a regular, gentle rain - no big deal. Several days in a row of rain with subsequent water removal could effect CH and CYA among others. A heavy downpour could eventually effect pH as well from either aeration or atmospheric products captured by the rain on its way to the pool.
Think of it as important as an air impact wrench is for mechanics - can't live without one once you get it. You can add the reagent drops much easier while it's mixing, and the speed stir ensures consistent/efficient mixing throughout the process. I can't imagine not having one now.
My K-2006 came today so I did a few tests, but it was missing the orange bottles to check salt level. I bought it as NEW on E Bay, not sure why those reagents were not in the kit but I have a Kokida digital tester anyway.
I calibrated my salt meter and PH meter then started.
Salt - 3.33
PH - 7.2 by meter, then checked with drops, both readings the same. Know from experience 1/2 - 3/4 cup of PH PLUS
Chlorine by standard drops was greater than 3 by darker yellow color than on the gage
FC - 7
CC - 2.5
CYA - < 30 less than 30, I was able to fill to the top, can still see black dot
For about 3 weeks now, I have been using Tri-Chloe pucks, I am using 2 at a time, not sure why it is still low.
After adding 3/4 of a cup of PH Plus, I then added a 1/2 cup of Cyanuric Acid.
Now that I have the Taylor K-2006 and the digital salt and PH meter, I will start plugging the numbers into Pool Math instead of guessing.
If anyone has any comment about the numbers, I am happy to listen
Thanks
Bruce
I calibrated my salt meter and PH meter then started.
Salt - 3.33
PH - 7.2 by meter, then checked with drops, both readings the same. Know from experience 1/2 - 3/4 cup of PH PLUS
Chlorine by standard drops was greater than 3 by darker yellow color than on the gage
FC - 7
CC - 2.5
CYA - < 30 less than 30, I was able to fill to the top, can still see black dot
For about 3 weeks now, I have been using Tri-Chloe pucks, I am using 2 at a time, not sure why it is still low.
After adding 3/4 of a cup of PH Plus, I then added a 1/2 cup of Cyanuric Acid.
Now that I have the Taylor K-2006 and the digital salt and PH meter, I will start plugging the numbers into Pool Math instead of guessing.
If anyone has any comment about the numbers, I am happy to listen
Thanks
Bruce
The K2006 doesn't unfortunately include the salt test- it is a standalone kit, which you need to purchase separately and is called the K 1766.
Your CC of 2.5 is a bit of a concern as it may indicate that you have some organics consuming your chlorine. How does the water look?
Your CC of 2.5 is a bit of a concern as it may indicate that you have some organics consuming your chlorine. How does the water look?
Hi Jezza, I used to live in Bubury when I was working at Worsley Alumina, we loved that little town and the area.
The water sparklingly clear and even when the lights are on at night there is no particles floating by like before I started using the Dolphin with the extra fine basket.
My chlorine level is above 3, it is a very bright yellow, higher than the drip color gage can show, if my chlorine level is that high wouldn't that keep any organics and algae in check.
My water has never looked as sharp and clear as it does now.
The water sparklingly clear and even when the lights are on at night there is no particles floating by like before I started using the Dolphin with the extra fine basket.
My chlorine level is above 3, it is a very bright yellow, higher than the drip color gage can show, if my chlorine level is that high wouldn't that keep any organics and algae in check.
My water has never looked as sharp and clear as it does now.
Oh yeah Worsley- they have been laying a lot of people of lately!! Also getting cold in little old Bunbury at the moment.
Good that water is clear for sure- just wondering if you could retest with the FAS-DPD test for a current FC and CC number. Also that your running the procedure correctly in particular for the CC test. Just want to make sure your getting an accurate reading.
Normally a CC reading greater than 0.5 indicates that your FC is fighting off some serious organics. When SLAMing the pool TFP style we say that your pool should continue to be slammed until your CC reading is 0.5 or less, the water is clear and you pass the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test). There is the possibility that your SWG could be keeping your FC up and stopping it from getting worse- how long are you running it for and what percentage is it dialled up.
Good that water is clear for sure- just wondering if you could retest with the FAS-DPD test for a current FC and CC number. Also that your running the procedure correctly in particular for the CC test. Just want to make sure your getting an accurate reading.
Normally a CC reading greater than 0.5 indicates that your FC is fighting off some serious organics. When SLAMing the pool TFP style we say that your pool should continue to be slammed until your CC reading is 0.5 or less, the water is clear and you pass the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test). There is the possibility that your SWG could be keeping your FC up and stopping it from getting worse- how long are you running it for and what percentage is it dialled up.
Here's the latest results from this morning and a pic of my water. How's the numbers and does the water look good?
fc-3.5
cc-0
ph-7.6
ta-130
ch-290
Cya-25ish
fc-3.5
cc-0
ph-7.6
ta-130
ch-290
Cya-25ish
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