New setup for new pool owner

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AnotherCurtis

Member
Jul 16, 2022
10
Boise ID
Pool Size
1236
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
New to pools. I have setup a 1236 gallon AG bestway frame pool. It has a 330 gph filter pump but states a system flow of 280 gph. It has been managed willy nilly without the proper test kit for two weeks. The TF-100 hopefully arrives today. The water is a little cloudy. When I add standard bleach (7%) it clears up for a short period. The walls are not slimy, but I have been skimming and brushing regularly. I have vacuumed a couple times. Before I found TFP I added 2 oz of cal hypo, twice, two days apart. I have since purchased standard bleach and stabilizer but not used the stabilizer.

I was given a larger pool with a 1000 gph filter pump (RX100) and a Kyrstal Clear M#CS8110. I don't know how the previous owner kept his water or the condition of the SWCG. I do see a little calcuim build up inside it. How should I go about evaluating it?

The SWCG has a minimum flow rate of 700 gph. Would installing the larger pump and SWCG be a bad plan as it is over sized for the little pool? Should I be patient and wait until next year's bigger pool(14' x 48") to use the SWCG?

Once the TF-100 arrives, I can test the water, after which I can get started. Is there a recommended sequence for balancing? CYA first, then pH, then FC, then... or is order of operation not so critical? Also, I am assuming it needs to be SLAMed because of the cloudy water and lack of FC up until now. If so, should I initially keep the CYA lower to keep the required SLAM FC lower, or get the CYA to the 30-50 to protect the chlorine?

I will post test results as soon as I have them.
 
With a pool that size I would keep things very simple. That's exactly what the link below is all about. Take a look and let us know if that works for you.

www.troublefreepool.com

Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

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I have been known to over think things.

I had read that article in pool school. After adding chlorine on multiple occasions, I determined that the dip strips I had could not even ball park the FC level. I got frustrated. How am I supposed to manage FC levels if I don’t know what they are?

I purchased the TF-100 and I am using this year’s pool as a learning experience for the next pool.
 
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AnotherCurtis said:
I will post test results as soon as I have them.
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We'll need to have those before we can offer much useful advice. In the meantime, use the test strips for now to make sure there is some amount of chlorine in the pool, just so it doesn't turn green. I wouldn't spend any money on this pool, unless you just can't get the pump to work. Put that money into the next one.
 
The test kit came in. Hopefully I did the tests accurately. The high TA has me questioning this.

The OTO test indicated no chlorine. Did not perform FAS-DPD.
pH 8.06
TA 180
CH 125
Didn't test CYA as I have not added any.

If I am interpreting correctly, PoolMath states that I need 6.6oz of CYA to get to 40, 11oz of 7.13% bleach to raise to chlorine to 5, and 16oz of 14.5% muriatic acid to drop the pH to 7.1 with aeration to lower TA.

Though, it sounds like I am in need of a SLAM because the chlorine is at zero. In which case, I would need 34oz of bleach to raise the chlorine to 16 if my CYA were at 40.

Did I interpret that correctly? If so, in what order should I proceed?
 
A SLAM Process may indeed be required since your FC fell to zero, but let's go over everything from your TF-100:
- How did you get a pH of 8.06? The pH is tested with the red R-0014 reagent and OTO viewer (i.e. 7.4, 7.6, 7.8, etc).
- Your TA might be elevated, but with a new test kit, try the test again, but this time have a damp cloth handy. Wipe the tip of the R-009 after each drop or two since some new bottles have a little static electricity that can effect the droplet size.
- Yes, add enough stabilizer for a CYA of 30 or 40. Either will be fine.
- Yes, but for now only increase the to about 3 ppm until the stabilizer has all dissolved into the pool. Then you can increase it a little more and keep it balanced as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.

Now about a SLAM Process. The whole ting about a small pool is the convenience of just dumping the water if needed. Sometimes that is cheaper than the time & chlorine required for a SLAM. Totally up to you. If this is a learning pool and you want to try, we'll be happy to help you through it. Just let us know.
 
This might help you with the CYA.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the PoolMath APP into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After about 30 minutes of soaking, squeeze the sock continuously to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
It's good practice, while getting good practice, to run TA and CH tests on your fill water. Post those when you do. It's good to know what you're dealing with, and this can sometimes influence whether treating the water, or replacing it, is the better move. CH is less important for a vinyl pool than a plaster pool, but excessive CH can cloud the water. TA affects pH, and if your fill water is high in TA, we'll know better how to advise you about keeping your pH in line. Do answer all of Pat's (Texas Splash) questions, as he's leading the way.

If you're using the Pool Math app, you can create a second "pool" called "Fill Water" or "City Water" or something like that, to keep track of your fill water test results. You'll be able to refer to them later. Maybe even test a few times a year to keep track of what's happening with your water supply. This will be of questionable value for such a small pool, but it's a good MO for larger ones. Use the original pool you set up for all things pool. This second "pool" is just for fill water records. Not everybody does this, just one of my nerdy habits.
 
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Texas Splash said:
How did you get a pH of 8.06?
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I purchased the pH meter over at tftestkits when I purchased the TF-100. I did the reagent test with the OTO viewer to see if the two tests matched. Trying to read between the lines, I believe they agreed with eachother.

Your TA might be elevated, but with a new test kit, try the test again,
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Will do.

Yes, add enough stabilizer for a CYA of 30 or 40. Either will be fine.
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Is there benefit or downside to either one?

Yes, but for now only increase the to about 3 ppm until the stabilizer has all dissolved into the pool. Then you can increase it a little more and keep it balanced as noted on the FC/CYA Chart.
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Forgive me, I think you are meaning chlorine here. I should increase chlorine until 3 ppm until the stabilizer is dissolved? Curiosity here, is this a maximum safe level assuming no CYA?

If this is a learning pool and you want to try
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This is, indeed, the case. I read about emptying the pool and scrubbing with the 1:10 bleach solution but would prefer not to empty the pool. Glutton for punishment maybe. Mostly just want to learn.

Thank you for all the help.

Dirk said:
It's good practice, while getting good practice, to run TA and CH tests on your fill water.
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Will do. Fellow nerd here. Need the practice. Plus, it is fascinating.
 
Last night:
Retested TA at 140 last night. Read both the laminated card and the extended test directions.
Added chlorine to 3ppm
Added 5.8oz of CYA for a target of 35ppm

This morning:
Added 3.9oz of 20° Baume for a target pH of 7.3 preparing for SLAM
Waiting a few hours to add 30oz of 7.13% bleach for a target of 14ppm from 0ppm.

Am I doing that all correctly?

Dumb question probably, I used a 5 fl oz measuring glass to measure the muriatic acid, if I clean it very well, can I use it to measure chlorine when only needing small amounts or are two separate glasses a better plan? I know they don't play nice together and can produce a toxic gas, I just wasn't sure if washing well in between was good enough.

Another question, the bleach I have states 7.5% but in the smaller print on the back states 7.13% available. Should I be plugging the 7.13% into PoolMath?
 
AnotherCurtis said:
Dumb question probably, I used a 5 fl oz measuring glass to measure the muriatic acid, if I clean it very well, can I use it to measure chlorine when only needing small amounts or are two separate glasses a better plan? I know they don't play nice together and can produce a toxic gas, I just wasn't sure if washing well in between was good enough.
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Not dumb at all. Except no glass is acceptable near a pool. Ban it: you and family and guests. Trying to get a shard of glass out of a pool is nearly impossible, except by stepping on it. Use plastic.* This works for me, because I can measure by peering down into it, instead of holding it up at eye level, which with muriatic acid is not all that keen.


They have one-, two- and four-cup sizes. I like it so much a bought several, in case they ever discontinue them.

I only use one. I rinse it well between chlorine and acid.

* I dedicated a kitchen cupboard to all pool, only pool. I filled it with non-breakable cups, glasses, bowls, plates, serving plates, coffee mugs, wine glasses (stemmed and stemless), and wine carafes. I've trained family and guests alike to only use items from that cupboard when heading out to the pool.
 
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AnotherCurtis said:
Another question, the bleach I have states 7.5% but in the smaller print on the back states 7.13% available. Should I be plugging the 7.13% into PoolMath?
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Whenever you have a question like that, use the lower value. All that will end up resulting in is the correct FC, or a very slightly elevated FC. A pool is safe to swim in at SLAM level FC, so a little goose of FC is absolutely fine. Err on the side of FC! It's going below the recommended values that will get your pool into trouble.

In fact (and pardon for loading up your head at this stage of your learning curve), many of us run our FC a little high. As I explained, it's perfectly fine for swimming. At most, a little too-high FC only means it might burn off a little sooner than the perfect level would have. But it gives you a buffer, a little wiggle room, to accommodate a hit on your FC that otherwise can run you into the danger zone: the green zone! Personally, I treat my minimum FC as if it doesn't exist, and consider my target FC as my minimum. For my pool my min is 3 and my target is 5. But I dose as if my minimum is 5, and I "pretend" my target is 6 or 7. If I have a hot couple of days, or a few extra swimmers, especially young ones (if ya know what I mean), or a "bird strike", or whatever, that punches my FC down a couple notches, I might go from 6 down to 4. I treat 4 like a red alert, and quickly restore my FC back to 6 or 7. So even though, in my mind, I had a "red alert event," my FC really never got below my actual minimum of 3. It's kinda like setting your clock fast, so you're never late. You're only fooling yourself, but in the case of a pool, dropping below minimum is not like being a little late, it might start off an algae outbreak that could take days or weeks to clear along with cases of chlorine.

TFP guidelines have been carefully considered and developed, and you can trust them. But they are, in fact, guidelines that can be modified to fit your particular pool or swimmer load or personal maintenance habits. Before I decided to fudge TFP's numbers, I had a few hot days and a kids' swim party. I got a little lazy and didn't monitor the FC as well as I should have. It got down to about 2.5, just 0.5 below my minimum, at that's all it took. It was just a tinge of green that didn't even require a SLAM to clear, but I learned, for my pool, 3 means 3. So now I never let it get near 3, and this artificial minimum FC value is how I do it.

Funny story, well, maybe not funny ha-ha. I recently had a big 4th of July party. No kids allowed. I noticed there was one part of my crew that didn't seem to be getting out of the pool much. Some not at all. But the champagne glasses were always full! Fast forward to late that night, after I finally got 'em out of the yard, and I couldn't see the bottom of my pool! That never happened with any amount of kids!! It was clear by the next day, but lesson learned, it's not just little kids that get the blame. BTW, if you know you got a big event coming up, goose your FC up a few points just before the party. And then check it right after and restore it, or maybe even goose it then, too, to, uh, clean up after.

Just a few hard-learned tips for ya...
 
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I have purchased the measuring cups. I can see exactly why you like them. Glass is now banned.

The bonus FC information is great. Understood and appreciated. “Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools.” Thank you for the wisdom.
 
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