New Pool/Spa Build in Northern Virginia

[nabeel76]

Hello Guys,

After receiving 2 Fiberglass and 3 Gunite Pool quotes, we finally have a contract in place to get our pool / spa built. This was a bit of a hard decision for us as we were shown a design (pictures attached) that we absolutely loved by one of the initial PB's that we received a quote from but ultimately had to change the design for the reason that the L shaped pool wouldn't accommodate an automatic cover. After extensive consideration, we just felt that the combination of having younger kids (8 year old and a 6 year old) combined with the additional pool cleaning aspect necessitated an auto cover. Therefore, we had to modify the design a bit and decided to go with a rectangular based pool, which isn't quite as unique but still nice, to get that cover. We also decided to drop the stone faced raised beam on the backside of the pool when going to the rectangular design as we didn't think it looked quite as nice on a rectangular design. The wall just looks to imposing in our opinion when the design changes. The new PB has not done a 3D of the new pool design yet but promised that one would be generated soon and I'll post it when I get it. As for the new design, it'll essentially look like the sketch I drew up that is attached, let me know what you guys think!

Also, we are still very early in the process so can still change things around here and there, if you think we should or shouldn't do something don't hesitate to voice it as we are rookies in the pool space - 1st pool build for both my wife and I.

As for the specifics on the contract to this point:

Pool: 18'x39' Gunite Pool w/ 8' x 12' Tanning Ledge (702 sq.f)
Spa: 8'x8' elevated spa 18"
Depth: 3'-7'
Pool Formation and Rebar Installation: Pool forming and rebar, mesh installation #4 rebar 12" of center, exposed beam is to be double mesh
Plumbing Materials: Pipes 1.5"/2" schedule 40 solid PVC, 2-skimmers, 2-return outlets, 2-main drain, 8-spa jets, 6-Jandy/Pentair 3 way valves
Pool Shell Installation: Shotcrete/Gunite at max 4000 PSI. 11" beam, 7"-11" wall, and floor.
Pool Equipment:

• Pentair Intelliflo VSF Variable Speed & Flow Pump 3HP 230V I 8-Speed Settings/Timer
• Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420 Cartridge Filter
• Pentair Intellicenter I5PS Pool and Spa Control w/ SCG
• Pentair Intellilevel Auto Water Leveling System
• Pentair Globrite Color LED w/ 100' CORD 12V 23W (6 Lights)
• Pentair MasterTemp 400 Natural (Gas Pool Heater at 400K BTU)

Tiles: Waterline Tiles to be selected and installed 6" wide band
Coping Stone: Silver Travertine
Pool Plaster: SGM Diamond Brite Steel Blue
Pool Deck: Silver Travertine French Pattern Finish Pool Deck and Patio
Installation: Exposed Beam and Spa Waterproofing and Veneering and steps (Chocolate Gray)
Auto Safety Cover: Under Mount Cover Star Pool Cover
Spa Hardtop Cover: 9x9 Demux Top Cover


Thanks!

Nabeel76

 

[HermanTX]

After extensive consideration, we just felt that the combination of having younger kids (8 year old and a 6 year old) combined with the additional pool cleaning aspect necessitated an auto cover. Therefore, we had to modify the design a bit and decided to go with a rectangular based pool, which isn't quite as unique but still nice, to get that cover.

That is a great reason and peace of mind. My relative did the exact same thing. Having the cover built into the pool design makes it very convenient. They put the sunshelf and spa next to each other on the shallow end and the cover starts from that end towards the deep end.

Depth: 3'-7'

Try to move quickly from 3ft to 3.5ft or 4ft for majority of shallow end. Kids grow quickly. My grandchildren (max 6yr now). love to dive for rings and the 3.5/4ft is great. My max depth is 5.5ft so going is 7ft is great.

2-skimmers, 2-return outlets, 2-main drain, 8-spa jets, 6-Jandy/Pentair 3 way valves

2 skimmers are great. Have each plumbed independently back to the equipment pad for better control. Have a Pentair 2 way valve control each.
Interesting that only 2 returns - I would think 3-4 would be best to create circulation but others may have input on that.

Spa: 8'x8' elevated spa 18"

It appears your spa is completely separate from the pool. But you show 1 pump so you can still move between Pool Mode and Spa Mode. You will need to set up your automation to move to Spa Mode daily to keep your water fresh (i.e. chlorinated). I see you will have a separate cover on the spa.

Pool Equipment:

• Pentair Intelliflo VSF Variable Speed & Flow Pump 3HP 230V I 8-Speed Settings/Timer
• Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420 Cartridge Filter
• Pentair Intellicenter I5PS Pool and Spa Control w/ SCG
• Pentair Intellilevel Auto Water Leveling System
• Pentair Globrite Color LED w/ 100' CORD 12V 23W (6 Lights)
• Pentair MasterTemp 400 Natural (Gas Pool Heater at 400K BTU)

Good set of equipment. You may want to look at the Globrite lights as there are many reviews on the forum.

Pentair GloBrite Failure, Removal & Replacement

Like so many others, I have encountered failure on two out of my three Pentair GloBrite in ground pool lights. Interestingly, the two failed within days of each other, while the third is still operating, for now. I'm looking into Florida Sunseeker replacement options, as OEM Pentair lights are...

www.troublefreepool.com

Obtain the actual part/model number for each and provide that back to the group for review

Good Luck and look forward to watching the progress.
See links below

How to Pick a Pool Builder

How to Pick a Pool Builder

How to Select Pool Equipment

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

Construction Tips & Best Practices

Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

Watering New Gunite & Concrete

Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading

Pool Start-Up Guidelines

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

 

[Jaffles]

My kids were your kids age with our first pool. The previous owner had filled in a garden on the edge of the pool with a pile of rocks. The kids called it the jumping rock (how surprising), but they just loved leaping into the deep end off it. So did all their friends that came over. No water feature just a pile of rocks.

New pool and the kids now 13 and 15, and at their request we have pile of rocks at the deep end. However this time its a flat boulder 5' L x 4' W balanced on 3 x 1.5' round type rocks. Still no water feature, well not quite true as the rock has two deck gets either side where down low create a trickling water ambiance. Turned up they identify the landing sone where the jets meet. But its history repeating, still just as enjoyable watching the kids and their mates show off their jumping - diving style - back flip - slam dunk style, still as populate as before.

This rock is perched right on the edge of the pools shell, impossible to hit anything but water providing you jump the right direction. I drilled a hole in the outer side pf the rock and ran a stainless steel rod through it. It has a plate welded to the top and the base is buried into concrete apron. A safety precaution so the rock could never tip into the pool with 3 or 4 teenagers standing on its pool side lip. My deep end is 6.5', the rock is 3.5' above the waters surface, no one has complained about hitting the bottom, even adults.

Just an idea.

 

[nabeel76]

That is a great reason and peace of mind. My relative did the exact same thing. Having the cover built into the pool design makes it very convenient. They put the sunshelf and spa next to each other on the shallow end and the cover starts from that end towards the deep end.

Try to move quickly from 3ft to 3.5ft or 4ft for majority of shallow end. Kids grow quickly. My grandchildren (max 6yr now). love to dive for rings and the 3.5/4ft is great. My max depth is 5.5ft so going is 7ft is great.


2 skimmers are great. Have each plumbed independently back to the equipment pad for better control. Have a Pentair 2 way valve control each.
Interesting that only 2 returns - I would think 3-4 would be best to create circulation but others may have input on that.


It appears your spa is completely separate from the pool. But you show 1 pump so you can still move between Pool Mode and Spa Mode. You will need to set up your automation to move to Spa Mode daily to keep your water fresh (i.e. chlorinated). I see you will have a separate cover on the spa.


Good set of equipment. You may want to look at the Globrite lights as there are many reviews on the forum.

Pentair GloBrite Failure, Removal & Replacement

Like so many others, I have encountered failure on two out of my three Pentair GloBrite in ground pool lights. Interestingly, the two failed within days of each other, while the third is still operating, for now. I'm looking into Florida Sunseeker replacement options, as OEM Pentair lights are...

www.troublefreepool.com

Obtain the actual part/model number for each and provide that back to the group for review

Good Luck and look forward to watching the progress.
See links below

How to Pick a Pool Builder

How to Pick a Pool Builder

How to Select Pool Equipment

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

Construction Tips & Best Practices

Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

Watering New Gunite & Concrete

Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading

Pool Start-Up Guidelines

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

Good points, I too had some questions about some of those.

2 skimmers are great. Have each plumbed independently back to the equipment pad for better control. Have a Pentair 2 way valve control each.
Interesting that only 2 returns - I would think 3-4 would be best to create circulation but others may have input on that.

I noticed that many on this forum had 3+ returns so will bring this up to my PB. I am new to this so really am not sure what the standard is here. Thanks for calling this out.

It appears your spa is completely separate from the pool. But you show 1 pump so you can still move between Pool Mode and Spa Mode. You will need to set up your automation to move to Spa Mode daily to keep your water fresh (i.e. chlorinated). I see you will have a separate cover on the spa.

There were several iterations of quotes / designs we had sent over to this PB and the first several had the spa as a spillover spa attached to the pool's head end. We in later designs moved the spa back as seen in the pictures to be detached from the pool. I believe when we were discussing this I seem to remember the PB stating something on the lines of having a separate pump? I am not sure if I am remembering that correctly though, but do seem to think they did state that there will be a separate pump for the quote. Would having both operate on the same pump be limiting in some way or another? I would assume a separate pump would bump up my quote a bit if I request it so would like to know what I am missing here by not having it.

Good set of equipment. You may want to look at the Globrite lights as there are many reviews on the forum.

We were noticing that as well, seems the microbrites are nicheless and therefore potentially more future proof. The Globrights do have a higher lumen value to them so they should be brighter than the microbrites as far as I can tell. Guess the only advantage to the micros would be their nicheless aspect in the event I would ever swap them out with a newer pentair or different vendors lights at some point. I did ask my PB and he mentioned that they are an additional $150 per light for the micros, so for the 6 lights we have we would be looking at an additional $900 dollars to upgrade. Are there any other advantages? I would be willing to pay it and upgrade if there were a real incentive to doing so but seems to me that the only incentive is potentially future proofing? Even then, I do see that they sell adapters to allow microbrites to fit into the globrite niche if ever required. Not sure about this one, are the actual microbrites better somehow, do they fit with the automation better or is this just a newer light without really any newer features per se?

Definitely looking forward to updating as we go through this process. We are also in Fairfax County VA which apparently can take 3-6 months to get through the permitting process itself. Hopefully we are closer to the 3 than the 6 .

 

[nabeel76]

My kids were your kids age with our first pool. The previous owner had filled in a garden on the edge of the pool with a pile of rocks. The kids called it the jumping rock (how surprising), but they just loved leaping into the deep end off it. So did all their friends that came over. No water feature just a pile of rocks.

New pool and the kids now 13 and 15, and at their request we have pile of rocks at the deep end. However this time its a flat boulder 5' L x 4' W balanced on 3 x 1.5' round type rocks. Still no water feature, well not quite true as the rock has two deck gets either side where down low create a trickling water ambiance. Turned up they identify the landing sone where the jets meet. But its history repeating, still just as enjoyable watching the kids and their mates show off their jumping - diving style - back flip - slam dunk style, still as populate as before.

This rock is perched right on the edge of the pools shell, impossible to hit anything but water providing you jump the right direction. I drilled a hole in the outer side pf the rock and ran a stainless steel rod through it. It has a plate welded to the top and the base is buried into concrete apron. A safety precaution so the rock could never tip into the pool with 3 or 4 teenagers standing on its pool side lip. My deep end is 6.5', the rock is 3.5' above the waters surface, no one has complained about hitting the bottom, even adults.

Just an idea.

That jumping rock sounds fun! I would've loved it when I was younger .

Let me ask, my PB has mentioned a min of 8' is required for diving but see that you guys have been doing it just fine with 6.5'? Is the 8' just an overly cautious type of 'better on the safe side' recommendation? Were you guys doing head first dives are just jumping off the rock? I was going back and forth with bumping the deep end to 8' as the PB mentioned that they wouldn't charge for that but to this point have just kept it at the 7' original recommendation without too much consideration as we didn't go with a diving board or anything like that to this point. However I am now thinking about potentially adding a rock, etc. but want to make sure they are safe in doing so.

Thanks!

 

[HermanTX]

There were several iterations of quotes / designs we had sent over to this PB and the first several had the spa as a spillover spa attached to the pool's head end. We in later designs moved the spa back as seen in the pictures to be detached from the pool. I believe when we were discussing this I seem to remember the PB stating something on the lines of having a separate pump? I am not sure if I am remembering that correctly though, but do seem to think they did state that there will be a separate pump for the quote. Would having both operate on the same pump be limiting in some way or another? I would assume a separate pump would bump up my quote a bit if I request it so would like to know what I am missing here by not having it.

The main issue is chlorination of that separate spa. You have to maintain it just like it is a pool. If you put a separate pump on it, then you will need to also have a separate chlorination and filter system. That is a lot of $$$$.
If you connect it to your main pool pump, then it can be handled simply by switching between Pool Mode and Spa Mode.
In Pool Mode you have suction from pool and return to pool. In Spa Mode you have suction from spa and return to spa. All can be plumbed to use a single pump, filter, and chlorination system. The issues are that you will need to schedule the system to switch between the 2 modes throughout the day.

Pools that the spa is connected to it have a similar issue however it is resolved in a different manner called Spillover Mode. This is where suction is from the pool, but return is to the spa. Since the spa is connected to the pool, the spa spillovers to the pool. So the spa is kept chlorinated by putting the system in Spillover mode for a set amount of time each day.
The advantage of the connected spa is that you are chlorinating both your spa and pool simultaneously. The flow is pool to pump/chlorinator to spa to pool in a continuous loop.

Both methods can be accomplished using a single pump, filter, chlorinator. Hope this helps and makes sense.

 

[KevMo]

Let me ask, my PB has mentioned a min of 8' is required for diving but see that you guys have been doing it just fine with 6.5'? Is the 8' just an overly cautious type of 'better on the safe side' recommendation? Were you guys doing head first dives are just jumping off the rock? I was going back and forth with bumping the deep end to 8' as the PB mentioned that they wouldn't charge for that but to this point have just kept it at the 7' original recommendation without too much consideration as we didn't go with a diving board or anything like that to this point. However I am now thinking about potentially adding a rock, etc. but want to make sure they are safe in doing so.

Building a safe area to dive takes more than just having some max depth. Take a look at this document. It specifies minimum depths, widths and slopes at various distances. https://www.srsmith.com/media/47241/06-052ansi-standard.pdf

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

The specs show the spa at +18” and not the pool at +18” also. The drawing shows both at the same elevation.
Will the raised wall to the left of the spa be constructed of block or a continuation of Shotcrete?

 

[nabeel76]

The main issue is chlorination of that separate spa. You have to maintain it just like it is a pool. If you put a separate pump on it, then you will need to also have a separate chlorination and filter system. That is a lot of $$$$.
If you connect it to your main pool pump, then it can be handled simply by switching between Pool Mode and Spa Mode.
In Pool Mode you have suction from pool and return to pool. In Spa Mode you have suction from spa and return to spa. All can be plumbed to use a single pump, filter, and chlorination system. The issues are that you will need to schedule the system to switch between the 2 modes throughout the day.

Pools that the spa is connected to it have a similar issue however it is resolved in a different manner called Spillover Mode. This is where suction is from the pool, but return is to the spa. Since the spa is connected to the pool, the spa spillovers to the pool. So the spa is kept chlorinated by putting the system in Spillover mode for a set amount of time each day.
The advantage of the connected spa is that you are chlorinating both your spa and pool simultaneously. The flow is pool to pump/chlorinator to spa to pool in a continuous loop.

Both methods can be accomplished using a single pump, filter, chlorinator. Hope this helps and makes sense.

Ok, I see what you're saying, yes that makes complete sense. The shared pool and spa system sounds like the route we will be taking so I'll make sure my PB gives me a good recommendation for automating between the 2 modes. Thanks!

 

[nabeel76]

The specs show the spa at +18” and not the pool at +18” also. The drawing shows both at the same elevation.
Will the raised wall to the left of the spa be constructed of block or a continuation of Shotcrete?

Yeah, I noticed that as well and the PB mentioned that there will be 3 sides of the spa that will be elevated. Hard to see from that drawing but if you look at the 3D design of the original scheme the decking will still be the same in the new scheme. From that you can see that the spa and pool are on the same level but that the front side of both the spa and pool are raised 18" from the ground. The pool has an exposed beam and so does the spa. The spa has this same exposed beam on both the opposite side and the backside. The side facing the pool will be at level with the existing decking between the pool and spa which requires a couple of steps up to that platform. Not sure if that makes sense, but that's what the PB mentioned was the need for that 18" in the quote. The spa will be gunite but the surrounding wall / exposed beams will be covered with the same chocolate grey stone that is also used for the pool's exposed beam.

 

[HermanTX]

Ok, I see what you're saying, yes that makes complete sense. The shared pool and spa system sounds like the route we will be taking so I'll make sure my PB gives me a good recommendation for automating between the 2 modes. Thanks!

The attached is a basic plumbing diagram for a pool and connected spa. I have circled the 3-way valves on the suction and on the return side in BLUE. These valves control the switching between Pool Mode and Spa Mode. Notice that the SWCG is before the 3 way valve on the return side - this provides the capability to chlorinate the spa or the pool in either Mode.

The 2 valves circled in RED are for the Spillover Mode. You only need this in a connected spa set up. Since you will have a separate spa set up then that plumbing in RED is not needed. So removing the valves in the RED circle you will be able to use this plumbing set up to be shared between the pool and spa that are not connected.

You just need to ensure that you are in one mode or the other and that both sets of 3-valves (in BLUE) are working. If one works and the other does not then you could drain one body of water and overflow the other. An automation system can help control the 2 different modes.

 

[CoolPool131]

What HermanTX said and the shared/connected spa would make like easier . Move spa then ? It would have to be higher than pool to get spillover. Here is ours, hard to see but pump is on and water spilling out of the spa. Maintaining chemicals in one body of water.

 

[TX2OBX]

The main issue is chlorination of that separate spa. You have to maintain it just like it is a pool. If you put a separate pump on it, then you will need to also have a separate chlorination and filter system. That is a lot of $$$$.
If you connect it to your main pool pump, then it can be handled simply by switching between Pool Mode and Spa Mode.
In Pool Mode you have suction from pool and return to pool. In Spa Mode you have suction from spa and return to spa. All can be plumbed to use a single pump, filter, and chlorination system. The issues are that you will need to schedule the system to switch between the 2 modes throughout the day.

Pools that the spa is connected to it have a similar issue however it is resolved in a different manner called Spillover Mode. This is where suction is from the pool, but return is to the spa. Since the spa is connected to the pool, the spa spillovers to the pool. So the spa is kept chlorinated by putting the system in Spillover mode for a set amount of time each day.
The advantage of the connected spa is that you are chlorinating both your spa and pool simultaneously. The flow is pool to pump/chlorinator to spa to pool in a continuous loop.

Both methods can be accomplished using a single pump, filter, chlorinator. Hope this helps and makes sense.

First want to say to the OP what an awesome looking design.


Even though my spa is "attached" to the pool it is 100% independent of the pool, with its own pumps, filter, heater and salt cell.

With his presented build showing the spa not being attached to the pool I would want it completely independent with its own set of equipment. Especially with auto covers. But this is all really preference. I just preferred the separate systems. Mainly because you could leave the pool covered and closed (and im presuming in NOVA you get cold enough to warrant closing in winter) and use the spa without mixing the two. My pool is currently closed but we were able to use the spa all throughout the holiday no problem. With shared equipment this would be a challenge. IN the grand scheme of things it added a lot less than you think to the build. We already had multiple pumps in the original design, so we were talking a second heater ($3400), salt cell ($1500), and filter ($799) (this is what was added to my build YMMV). When your talking a 6 figure pool project this isnt that much for what IMO is a major improvement in the usability of the spa and pool. If I had to do it again the only thing I would do different is have a skimmer installed in the spa. Just my 2 cents.

To the OP I would clarify with the builder whether the separate pump he mentioned is intended for just the jets and he plans on the main filtration to be handled by the pool pump, or if the pump is driving an entirely separate system all together for the spa. Also even if you elect to go with shared equipment id still make sure you get a skimmer in the spa. The "spillover" effect acts as a skimmer, but with the spa separate you have no way to remove surface debris without one.

 

[nabeel76]

What HermanTX said and the shared/connected spa would make like easier . Move spa then ? It would have to be higher than pool to get spillover. Here is ours, hard to see but pump is on and water spilling out of the spa. Maintaining chemicals in one body of water.

Yeah it's shared and sounds like that's not a problem. The pool is detached from the spa so spillover is not a possibility w/ our setup so we'll have to deal with maintaining the chemicals across the separate bodies of water in our case, hopefully that won't be too challenging.

 

[nabeel76]

First want to say to the OP what an awesome looking design.


Even though my spa is "attached" to the pool it is 100% independent of the pool, with its own pumps, filter, heater and salt cell.

With his presented build showing the spa not being attached to the pool I would want it completely independent with its own set of equipment. Especially with auto covers. But this is all really preference. I just preferred the separate systems. Mainly because you could leave the pool covered and closed (and im presuming in NOVA you get cold enough to warrant closing in winter) and use the spa without mixing the two. My pool is currently closed but we were able to use the spa all throughout the holiday no problem. With shared equipment this would be a challenge. IN the grand scheme of things it added a lot less than you think to the build. We already had multiple pumps in the original design, so we were talking a second heater ($3400), salt cell ($1500), and filter ($799) (this is what was added to my build YMMV). When your talking a 6 figure pool project this isnt that much for what IMO is a major improvement in the usability of the spa and pool. If I had to do it again the only thing I would do different is have a skimmer installed in the spa. Just my 2 cents.

To the OP I would clarify with the builder whether the separate pump he mentioned is intended for just the jets and he plans on the main filtration to be handled by the pool pump, or if the pump is driving an entirely separate system all together for the spa. Also even if you elect to go with shared equipment id still make sure you get a skimmer in the spa. The "spillover" effect acts as a skimmer, but with the spa separate you have no way to remove surface debris without one.

Thanks, yeah we think that design will look good in our space but time will tell...

It would be nice to have a sep system but as you've posted it'll probably add another 5K+ to our build and at this point we're trying to limit costs as much as possible to save money for landscaping (Trees/Shrubs/etc.) and maybe even a small shed/pool house in the future. Your also correct in that we get cold winters in NOVA and the pool will have to be closed down. We do or may occasionally use the spa from time to time post pool closing. I could probably see us using it in the October-November timeframe when it's colder but not quite yet freezing and probably wouldn't really use it after that but I am fairly certain the builder did mention that this can be done with no issue even though the systems are shared. I believe you can just flip the system to service the spa during the offseason and we even invested in a separate spa hard cover to accommodate this type of use. So as far as we are aware, I don't think having a separate filter/pump/etc. for the spa would be required for off-season use. Let me know if I am mistaken as we do intend to get some post pool closure use out of the spa.

 

[TX2OBX]

Thanks, yeah we think that design will look good in our space but time will tell...

It would be nice to have a sep system but as you've posted it'll probably add another 5K+ to our build and at this point we're trying to limit costs as much as possible to save money for landscaping (Trees/Shrubs/etc.) and maybe even a small shed/pool house in the future. Your also correct in that we get cold winters in NOVA and the pool will have to be closed down. We do or may occasionally use the spa from time to time post pool closing. I could probably see us using it in the October-November timeframe when it's colder but not quite yet freezing and probably wouldn't really use it after that but I am fairly certain the builder did mention that this can be done with no issue even though the systems are shared. I believe you can just flip the system to service the spa during the offseason and we even invested in a separate spa hard cover to accommodate this type of use. So as far as we are aware, I don't think having a separate filter/pump/etc. for the spa would be required for off-season use. Let me know if I am mistaken as we do intend to get some post pool closure use out of the spa.

Again a YMMV disclaimer and im not a TPF expert in the slightest, just stating my observations based on my previous and current pool setup.

My old pool was in DFW, so much different climate than NOVA. However it had shared equipment for both pool and spa. Typically From end of December to the beginning of March the pool was closed which meant pool covered with the safety cover, the equipment was drained entirely, returns plugged, and antifreeze poured in the skimmer throats as well as pump basket to fill up the return lines as best as possible. Leaving it in effect not usable without undoing most of that. We didn't always close it as some winters were more mild than others, and usually why we would wait to December to decide whether we were going to or not. But with shared equipment neither the pool nor spa was usable. I guess if I really wanted to I could put it in "spa" mode manually and turn the pump on but then I would have to re winterize the spa side of the system when done. I never did, we just didnt use the pool for those 3 months. However the experts here with more knowledge on this type of setup might have a different answer on how to accomplish this easier.

My new pools set up is not typical and the way everyone has told you is the typical way, theres no right or wrong here. Even with a shared system I would imagine the builder will install a return to the spa on the "pool" side of system so you would only have to maintain water chemistry as if they were one single body of water. The question I would have however as there is no spill over how you balance water being sent to the spa and sucking some water from the spa drains (or spa skimmer) to avoid overfilling the spa. IM sure once this was dialed in it wouldn't have to be messed with.

But with my size heater, even with temps in the low 20s (and windchills colder than that) the spa uncovered had no trouble heating up to 102 in less than an hour and it maintained itself there all weekend without issue. So with a cover you could honestly just treat it like an above ground "portable" spa, set it to temp and leave it there year round if you wanted. It would probably be pretty efficient at doing that. The temps experienced last week were record lows for this area and not a typical winter for us and in fact were already back in the 50-60s like usual. But even in temps like that, everyone really enjoyed the spa and at one point I had 10 people in it over Christmas. So if your goal is to use it year round this is something to consider. I know $ is relative and everyone has a different sense of it but to me $5k+ or - on a pool build like this especially to improve its usability wouldn't be noticed across a 6 figure build.

 

[HermanTX]

I would imagine the builder will install a return to the spa on the "pool" side of system so you would only have to maintain water chemistry as if they were one single body of water. The question I would have however as there is no spill over how you balance water being sent to the spa and sucking some water from the spa drains (or spa skimmer) to avoid overfilling the spa.

You cannot have a return line branched from the pool return to the spa in a separate pool & spa setup. You would overflow the spa and drain the pool. With a separate pool and spa you can control proper chemistry by using Pool Mode or Spa Mode with a single set of equipment.

 

[HermanTX]

I could probably see us using it in the October-November timeframe when it's colder but not quite yet freezing and probably wouldn't really use it after that but I am fairly certain the builder did mention that this can be done with no issue even though the systems are shared. I believe you can just flip the system to service the spa during the offseason and we even invested in a separate spa hard cover to accommodate this type of use. So as far as we are aware, I don't think having a separate filter/pump/etc. for the spa would be required for off-season use.

By using the Spa Mode and Pool Mode on the shared pool equipment you can maintain proper pool chemistry. Just ensure the SWCG is positioned before the 3-way valve that switches between Pool Mode and SPA Mode. It will require you to test both bodies of water to ensure proper balance but once you have achieved that, the daily switching between Spa mode and Pool Mode will keep the FC levels set. A SWCG will allow you to set a certain percentage of chlorine for Pool and a different percentage for Spa if that is required. During the swim season I see no major issue other than testing both the spa and pool separately to ensure chemistry is correct and do daily switching between SPA and Pool Mode to chlorinate the each body of water.

Now one thing to remember, most every SWCG will shut down when water temperature reaches about 52 deg F (varies by mfg). So in the winter, when you close the pool, and only use the Spa, if you maintain it always above 60 deg then the SWCG will handle the FC requirements. If you let it drop (turn off the heater) then you need to monitor using liquid chlorine. Also , most heater mfg, do not recommend using a heater below 60 degrees (water temperature), that is unless you keep the heater running to maintain a higher temperature. The risk is condensation forming and create corrosion. So once you decide to stop using the spa, then you may wish to either winterize it all, or just keep the spa in circulation (do not turn on heater) and test to ensure FC and other levels are maintained until it warms up .

 

[nabeel76]

By using the Spa Mode and Pool Mode on the shared pool equipment you can maintain proper pool chemistry. Just ensure the SWCG is positioned before the 3-way valve that switches between Pool Mode and SPA Mode. It will require you to test both bodies of water to ensure proper balance but once you have achieved that, the daily switching between Spa mode and Pool Mode will keep the FC levels set. A SWCG will allow you to set a certain percentage of chlorine for Pool and a different percentage for Spa if that is required. During the swim season I see no major issue other than testing both the spa and pool separately to ensure chemistry is correct and do daily switching between SPA and Pool Mode to chlorinate the each body of water.

Now one thing to remember, most every SWCG will shut down when water temperature reaches about 52 deg F (varies by mfg). So in the winter, when you close the pool, and only use the Spa, if you maintain it always above 60 deg then the SWCG will handle the FC requirements. If you let it drop (turn off the heater) then you need to monitor using liquid chlorine. Also , most heater mfg, do not recommend using a heater below 60 degrees (water temperature), that is unless you keep the heater running to maintain a higher temperature. The risk is condensation forming and create corrosion. So once you decide to stop using the spa, then you may wish to either winterize it all, or just keep the spa in circulation (do not turn on heater) and test to ensure FC and other levels are maintained until it warms up .

Thanks for the great advice! I will ensure the PB puts the SWG (Intellicenter i5ps w/ SWG) before the 3-way valve, hopefully they already know and are planning to do this but I'll keep them honest.

I didn't realize that you can't or that it's not recommended to use the heater when the water temp is below 60 degrees. So what's the recommendation here for people that do like to use their spa in the off-season? Should I keep the spa set to a certain temperature, if so, what's the recommended temperature? Also, that would entail consistent gas usage to do so, does it get expensive keeping a spa set to a certain temperature all winter? Thanks!

 

[TX2OBX]

Thanks for the great advice! I will ensure the PB puts the SWG (Intellicenter i5ps w/ SWG) before the 3-way valve, hopefully they already know and are planning to do this but I'll keep them honest.

I didn't realize that you can't or that it's not recommended to use the heater when the water temp is below 60 degrees. So what's the recommendation here for people that do like to use their spa in the off-season? Should I keep the spa set to a certain temperature, if so, what's the recommended temperature? Also, that would entail consistent gas usage to do so, does it get expensive keeping a spa set to a certain temperature all winter? Thanks!

Thats more of a concern with a large body of water like a pool that could take a day or more to get up to temp. The spa heats up so fast its not an issue. I turned mine on Thursday and turned it off Sunday. The water was at 44 when turned on and within 10 min it was above 60, and kept at 102 the long weekend. My spa is not a typical shape so I can't find a cover for it. If I could I would just keep it on. But for now I just heat it up when I want to use it and turn it off when were done.

That disclaimer is more for heating a pool than a spa, which wouldn't get the water temps above 60 that quickly.

You cannot have a return line branched from the pool return to the spa in a separate pool & spa setup. You would overflow the spa and drain the pool. With a separate pool and spa you can control proper chemistry by using Pool Mode or Spa Mode with a single set of equipment.

This is genuine curiosity but how long would be enough for the spa to stay properly filtered? That just seems like you would have stagnant water the majority of the time in the spa. Could you not pull water from both the pool and spa equally and return it to both with one system?