New Pool Setup

Itsmejson

Member
Aug 1, 2023
17
Liberty Hill, TX
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi All,

We just finished filling our pool and PB has done the initial cleaning. When asked about pool chemicals he said they will add a little chemicals but not get it 100% in line.

I downloaded pool math app,
ordered the TF-100 pro test kit and awaiting delivery. What other items & chemicals should I go pick so that I can start working on the chemistry once I get the test kit?
 
You should only purchase enough that you can store in a cool place. Liquid chlorine degrades.

Only buy weekly if you have to store outside in the heat. You can buy more if you store in a climate controlled place.
 
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Get your CYA level to 30 ppm to start. Then work up to 50 ppm when you get into summer.

 
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Get your CYA level to 30 ppm to start. Then work up to 50 ppm when you get into summer.

Received my TF100 pro kit today & Clorox Conditioner. Plan to start with the CYA Like you recommended.

I know the kit came with directions but I’m searching the forums a dumb down instruction manual lol.
 
Here are some testing tips that may help you conserve reagents and achieve accurate results...
  • Get a sample bottle with a dropper style tip. Leslie's has nice ones they'll give you for free.
  • Always rinse sample vials with pool water before and after use. With small sample size, even a bit of fresh tap water can skew results
  • When using droppers, keep the bottle vertical. Squeeze only enough to allow the drops to just fall off the tip
  • Go slow between drops (about 1 second between) and watch closely for color changes. On most tests, color hues are less important than determining the "endpoint."
  • The endpoint for most "count the drops" type tests is when there is no more color change. Keep adding drops until there is no color change. Don't count the last drop that results in no color change
  • For the first few tests, wipe the tip of the R-0009 TA bottle between each drop with a damp rag to eliminate static charge
  • Use 10 mL sample size for FC/CC test (R-0870/R-0871/R-0003 reagents)
  • Use 25 mL sample for TA test
  • Use 10 mL sample for CH test
  • For some tests, swirling is critical to achieve accurate results (there's a tool for that). Keep swirling the vial throughout the test.
  • Get that tool when your budget permits. You'll be glad you did.
  • Try to develop a routine and stick with it. Do the tests the same way each time.
Take some time to review:



 
Great tips thank you! The kit I purchased did come with the mixing tool you linked above.

Stupid question after the tests do you just dump all the samples taken back into the pool to clean after each use?
 

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Did my first test today using the kit. I Was confused on FC test. Is it the same as using the yellow side of the comparator? Or is it a completely different test? I used the yellow side.

I found the instructions for FC using the powder included in the kit and received a value of 2.5

Test results:
FC: 2.5 / 2 using the yellow side of the comparator
PH: 7.8
TA: 60
CH: 275
CYA: 30
 
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The test you completed for FC is not a very accurate. Ignore that test in the future. Use the one linked below instead. This tests uses a regular vile, a 10 mL water sample, and three different reagents. Follow the instructions to compute your FC level. Use the same sample to compute your CC level.

 
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Great! Your numbers look good. Maintain FC/CYA Levels. Never allow FC to fall below minimum level. Assuming "Liberty Hill" is in Texas, you'll lose between 2-4 ppm of FC daily. Be prepared to add enough chlorine daily during swim season to keep with demand. You should consider a SWCG to take care of that daily chore. Use muriatic acid to keep pH in line according to TFP recommendations.

Take a few minutes to create your signature.

 
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Thank you. Yes I am in Texas. I just stocked up 10 gals of chlorinated bleach from walmart to be stored inside the house & Clorox conditioner. Going to get CYA to 40.

When daily testing free chlorine. Do you recommend using the FAS-DPD test each time or the simple test with adding 5 drops of r-0006?

I’m thinking use comparator block & r-0006 daily and reserve he FAS-DPD Test weekly?

Lastly I logged my test in the pool math app. Do you chase the ideal targets vs being happy to be in the recommended levels?
 
When daily testing free chlorine. Do you recommend using the FAS-DPD test each time
Yes. The "OTO" test does not provide the level of accuracy needed to monitor FC levels on a daily basis. It's more of a go/no-go type of test.

I don't need to test FC daily anymore. During the offseason, I may test once a week. During swim season, more often. You'll get to know your pool and what it needs. But start with daily testing for FC and adjust accordingly.
Do you chase the ideal targets vs being happy to be in the recommended levels?
Ideal levels are not that difficult to achieve. If you fall outside of Ideal levels, you're still safe within recommended levels. The most important to maintain is your FC level.
 
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Just had pool school today and found out I have a chlorinator. At the initial clean they threw in stabilized chlorine tabs, which now explains how my initial tests I completed a few days ago.

Question is moving forward once the initial chlorine tabs in the chlorinator have been dissolved would I no longer use this since I will be following the trouble free process? I would add liquid bleach to the pool directly in lieu of throwing tabs in the chlorinator correct?
 
That's correct, use liquid chlorine. If you have a heater, you should not use the tablet feeder at all. Even with a check valve, highly acidic water can seat back into the heater and destroy it. If you plan to stay in the house for a few years, invest in a SWG. It's pretty much a set and forget kind of thing and you don't have to worry about daily dosing.
 
Another thing to consider is the calcium hardness of your fill water. When your pool evaporates, clean water leaves, but calcium is left behind. When you top off, more calcium is added. The cycle can quickly take CH levels out of range within a season or two. Test your fill water for calcium content, and if high, consider using a water softener for fill water. If you can take calcium out of the equation, as well as CYA (by avoiding the use of trichlor and dichlor), you may never need to drain your pool.
 
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Thx for confirming using liquid chlorine. I do not have a heat pump so we should be good there. I’ll be sure to monitor calcium hardness as time goes on.

During pool school we scheduled our pump to run for 12 hours a day starting 11am. Is 12 hrs sufficient or is it best to run all the time?
 

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