New pool owner testing help

[chiquilin94]

Hi TFP community,

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday weekend!

My wife and I recently purchased a home in the North County San Diego, CA area that came with a pool. Instead of hiring someone to take care of the pool for us, I decided to take the challenge head on and do it myself (also with the encouragement of my Dad who's been taking care of his own pool for many years). I'm looking forward to diving head first into this sub and journey, but I'd be lying if I said it wasn't a little overwhelming. I know it gets better with time, practice, and continuous learning from this sub, so I'm ready to get started.

I recently bought the TF-Pro w/ Smart Stir test kit as a result of following the advice of people within this forum. Today I did my first test with the kit and will be taking a sample of pool water to Leslie's tomorrow to cross check and see how I did. Should I test again before taking my sample to Leslie's tomorrow or will my current numbers be okay?

My pool info is below along with my first test readouts. Please let me know what you think of these numbers, how I should take action, and/or if you need any more info.

Pool Info/Background

• About 20,000 gallons
• Pentair System
• Salt water generator
• Bought the house with the pool and it looked like it hadn't been taken care of for a while. Not necessarily horrible, but definitely neglected as the pool had algae.
• When I took it to Leslie's for the first time, I found out it had .13 ppm Chlorine. So at the guidance of my Dad, I shocked it with a few packets I bought from Leslie's and that brought the Chlorine level to an acceptable amount of around 1.4 ppm.
• Cleaned the filters which were filthy
• Turned my salt water generator to 80%
• I have Pool Math app downloaded on my phone

TF-Pro w/ Smart Stir – First Test Results

• FC = 1.0
• CC = 0.0
• PH = ~ 7.9
• TA = 90
• CH = 775
• CYA = 40
• CSI = 0.600

 

[Oly]

Save yourself some fuel and time, skip the pool store. The free test is worthless it will only confuse you and they will hard sell you something you don't need.
Your FC is well below your minimum, add enough liquid chlorine to get well into your target range FC/CYA Levels and check to make sure your SWCG can maintain the FC after several days.
Also your calcium hardness is high and your CSI is also high. I suggest you test your fill water for CH and TA then consider your action plan to avoid calcium scale going forward.

 

[PoolStored]

Welcome to TFP!!!

1. Get some liquid chlorine into this pool, post haste! Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels SWCG is good at maintaining FC, not so much raising. Raise with liquid, maintain with SWCG. Use pool math to help you figure out how much liquid chlorine to add to get to top of the target range.
2. Your CH is significantly high. Test your fill water and post those results. You are at risk of scaling on the plaster and in your salt cell.
3. You really need to be able to test your salt too. Did you get the TF-pro salt? If not go back and order the salt test kit.
4. You can lower this high CSI, but you need to get your pH down...and likely reduce your TA. I would use pool math to reduce your pH to 7.2-7.4. It is not "critical" as high CSI takes some period of time to cause issues, but ongoing you need to manage CSI. Pool math will help you with muriatic acid additions to keep pH lower and CSI in range. Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)
5. If your fill water has high CH, then at some point, a partial drain and fill is in order.
6. I would do an overnight chlorine loss test to see if you have algae...cheap test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[chiquilin94]

@Oly – thank you for the quick response! So if I'm reading the FC/CYA calculator right, it's telling me to have anywhere from 3-7ppm FC in my pool if I have a CYA level of 40 and a salt water generator? But then underneath it says 40 is not recommended and should be increased. Do you mind elaborating on what "fill water" is? Thanks!

@PoolStored – thank you for the quick and thorough response as well! A few follow up questions and notes for you–

• Based on this forum, I've read to use liquid bleach as chlorine which is something I had no idea about and think is pretty cool. When would be the best time to "shock" the pool? Early morning? Evening?
• What is "fill water" ?
• What is "scaling"? Is that the build up of calcium?
• I forgot to get the salt test kit but I'll be grabbing that right now!
• Again, what is "fill water" and how do I prevent it from having a high CH? I do know that our water in Vista has a lot of calcium (so I'm told by my new neighbors". If this is true, what do I do? Are there any posts / articles on how to manage a drain and fill?
• After I put liquid chlorine (bleach) in my pool today, should I wait until tomorrow to do the overnight chlorine loss test?

Thank you both for your help!

 

[PoolStored]

• Based on this forum, I've read to use liquid bleach as chlorine which is something I had no idea about and think is pretty cool. When would be the best time to "shock" the pool? Early morning? Evening?

If you are using bleach make sure it is not Clorox, not scented, not splashless, without softeners...nothing. Best to find liquid chlorine if you can...same stuff you just know there are no additives. We don't "shock" a pool, unless you need to SLAM. We add chlorine daily, you can choose whatever time works for you.

• What is "fill water" ?

The water you use to fill your pool.

• What is "scaling"? Is that the build up of calcium?

Calcium Scaling

Calcium scale on your pool is something we all want to avoid. With some elbow grease and a pumice stone for pools we can help you remove this eyesore.

www.troublefreepool.com

• I forgot to get the salt test kit but I'll be grabbing that right now!

Taylor K-1766 or TF Salt Bundle

• Again, what is "fill water" and how do I prevent it from having a high CH?

You can't, it is what it is...

• I do know that our water in Vista has a lot of calcium (so I'm told by my new neighbors". If this is true, what do I do? Are there any posts / articles on how to manage a drain and fill?

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

• After I put liquid chlorine (bleach) in my pool today, should I wait until tomorrow to do the overnight chlorine loss test?

Chlorine added to a pool can be tested 30 minutes after the addition. You should make an addition to add 7ppm now. Retest in the evening...if it is below 3, add enough to get you back to 7 FC. Then do the OCLT.

 

[chiquilin94]

@PoolStored – thanks for your responses!

I put liquid chlorine in my pool last night and tested at least 30 mins after and got 4.5 ppm FC. I then went to bed and woke up early this morning and tested again and received a readout of 7 ppm FC.

• How could this be?
• This obviously signals I don't have any algae right?
• Is this level too high for my salt water pool or do I just let my SWG maintain this level?
• Attached below is my daily FC/ph readout. Let me know how I should read the ph level.
• Next step is to lower my ph and TA?
• For fill water testing, would I just test my hose water?

Thank you so much!

 

[chiquilin94]

Here's my picture from today's daily test readout. The readouts in my above email were from my FAS/DPD test.

 

[PoolStored]

@PoolStored – thanks for your responses!

I put liquid chlorine in my pool last night and tested at least 30 mins after and got 4.5 ppm FC. I then went to bed and woke up early this morning and tested again and received a readout of 7 ppm FC.

• How could this be?

Your SWCG was on.

• This obviously signals I don't have any algae right?

Do this test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

• Is this level too high for my salt water pool or do I just let my SWG maintain this level?

Follow this chart...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

• Attached below is my daily FC/ph readout. Let me know how I should read the ph level.

8+ Add enough muriatic acid to reduce ph by .4, running pump, test in 30 minutes. Repeat until pH is in the 7s.

• Next step is to lower my ph and TA?

Don't worry about TA...just manage your pH and keep it in the 7s with muriatic.

• For fill water testing, would I just test my hose water?

Yep!

Thank you so much!

 

[chiquilin94]

Your SWCG was on.

So should I turn off my SWG when trying to do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

Do this test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

That's what I thought I did last night. So where I messed up, was keeping my SWG on? So what I need to do instead, is turn off SWG but keep pool pump on?

Follow this chart...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

So if I'm reading this correctly, I should have a target FC level in between 3-7 ppm if my CYA level is 40 and I want to maintain my pool with a SWG? With those inputs, it's also telling me to increase my CYA level 60-90 right?

8+ Add enough muriatic acid to reduce ph by .4, running pump, test in 30 minutes. Repeat until pH is in the 7s.

Will do, thanks!

Don't worry about TA...just manage your pH and keep it in the 7s with muriatic.

Thank you!

Yep!

Thanks for confirming!

 

[PoolStored]

So should I turn off my SWG when trying to do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

Yes.

That's what I thought I did last night. So where I messed up, was keeping my SWG on? So what I need to do instead, is turn off SWG but keep pool pump on?

Yes.

So if I'm reading this correctly, I should have a target FC level in between 3-7 ppm if my CYA level is 40 and I want to maintain my pool with a SWG?

Yes. I would, as a new pool owner, keep your FC at 7. This gives you some buffer is you have a high FC demand day (lots of sun/swimmers etc.) In Ohio, my pool, with cover uses about 2FC. Sunday we took the cover off, and had 4 swimmers for a couple hours, pool used 4.5 FC...you can see, if you were at 3 how this would be a problem...

With those inputs, it's also telling me to increase my CYA level 60-90 right?

I would ensure that your FC is up to 7. Use liquid to raise FC, SWCG to maintain. SWCG not good at raising. Confirm no algae with OCLT, then raise it to 60 and try that for while, while you are learning the pool. When you are confident that you have control and understanding of maintaining FC, then you can try 70 or 80. If you happen to get algae because you don't understand FC maintenance, slam above 60 gets hard.

Will do, thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks for confirming!

De rien...

 

[chiquilin94]

Yes. I would, as a new pool owner, keep your FC at 7. This gives you some buffer is you have a high FC demand day (lots of sun/swimmers etc.) In Ohio, my pool, with cover uses about 2FC. Sunday we took the cover off, and had 4 swimmers for a couple hours, pool used 4.5 FC...you can see, if you were at 3 how this would be a problem...

Even though I'm in San Diego, CA you still recommend keeping it at 7 FC? Does this high of chlorine affect people's skin or quality of swim?

I would ensure that your FC is up to 7. Use liquid to raise FC, SWCG to maintain. SWCG not good at raising. Confirm no algae with OCLT, then raise it to 60 and try that for while, while you are learning the pool. When you are confident that you have control and understanding of maintaining FC, then you can try 70 or 80. If you happen to get algae because you don't understand FC maintenance, slam above 60 gets hard.

So I did the OCLT last night. I've had my SWG to 0% setting and confirmed there were no sanitation lights on for the past two days. Yesterday, I put liquid chlorine in the day time and then tested again before going to bed and it read 5.5 FC. This morning, I tested and it came out to be 5.5 - 6 FC. Given this, I don't believe I have any algae, however, there are still brownish stains on the wall that I can brush off. Is this dead algae?

 

[chiquilin94]

New pool owner here...

My VS pump is set to run at about 1750 RPMs. When it's on though, my pool cleaner which is attached to the side of the pool doesn't seem to be moving all that much. Seems very slow and ineffective. I'm almost positive it doesn't reach the shallow end of my pool either, just stays in the deep end.

Should I get one of those battery powered ones I've seen online? Does anyone have one? Are they worth it or is there something I can do with my current one?

Thanks for the help!

 

[PoolStored]

Even though I'm in San Diego, CA you still recommend keeping it at 7 FC? Does this high of chlorine affect people's skin or quality of swim?

Yes, absolutely. The amount of HOCL (the stuff that irritates the skin and ruins clothes) with CYA 60 and FC of 7, is less than CYA 15 and FC of 3. You should always follow this.
Link-->FC/CYA Levels

If you want to dive in the deep end...

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com

Given this, I don't believe I have any algae, however, there are still brownish stains on the wall that I can brush off. Is this dead algae?

Here is what I would do. If your CYA is still 40 (you haven't raised it yet), raise your FC to 12. This is halfway between the top of recommended and SLAM level. Raise it with liquid chlorine and keep it there with either your SWCG or liquid chlorine for a few days. It is safe to swim, with CYA 40 up to FC of 16...you won't notice it. Brush a few times a day. The scrubbing will break any biofilm on the algae (if there is any) and the elevated FC will lift the stain if is organic staining. BRUSH BRUSH BRUSH

If that doesn't work,

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[chiquilin94]

Yes, absolutely. The amount of HOCL (the stuff that irritates the skin and ruins clothes) with CYA 60 and FC of 7, is less than CYA 15 and FC of 3.

Makes sense!

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.

www.troublefreepool.com

I only use liquid chlorine so I should go to the store and get trichlor tablets just to test this? These stains are actually underneath the surface of the water and on the walls, so will it still be the same if I hold the tablet under water?

I'm attaching pictures for reference just in case. Don't know if you'll be able to fully tell but thought it would be helpful.

The thing is, for the most part, it's easy to brush this stuff off of the walls. When I brush it though, it just stays at the bottom of the pool. And when I brush it from the bottom of the pool towards the deep end, it looks like I'm brushing away dirt. Any experience with this? Will my pool cleaner pick this up? I posted another thread recently asking about pool cleaners because it doesn't seem like mine runs all that well when the pump is on so I'm considering getting a battery powered one or a new wall one. I run my VS pump at 1750 and then cleaner doesn't do much...

 

[chiquilin94]

Here is what I would do. If your CYA is still 40 (you haven't raised it yet), raise your FC to 12. This is halfway between the top of recommended and SLAM level. Raise it with liquid chlorine and keep it there with either your SWCG or liquid chlorine for a few days. It is safe to swim, with CYA 40 up to FC of 16...you won't notice it. Brush a few times a day. The scrubbing will break any biofilm on the algae (if there is any) and the elevated FC will lift the stain if is organic staining. BRUSH BRUSH BRUSH

If that doesn't work,

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.

www.troublefreepool.com

Sorry, I guess I didn't see your original advice about raising FC to 12 and then brushing every day. I'll definitely begin the process now.

When I brush this stain off the walls, how do I pick it up? Will the cleaner get it or will it be filtered out by the pool pump? Usually when I brush this, it kind of just sits at the bottom, almost like it was dirt or something.

While I do this, should I only worry about FC and not the other measurements like ph? Just focus on FC for now?

 

[PoolStored]

When I brush this stain off the walls, how do I pick it up? Will the cleaner get it or will it be filtered out by the pool pump? Usually when I brush this, it kind of just sits at the bottom, almost like it was dirt or something.

Filter (swimming will suspend some of it), Cleaner...eventually in to the filter. A dolphin would help, especially with fine filters.

While I do this, should I only worry about FC and not the other measurements like ph? Just focus on FC for now?

pH test is invalid with FC > 10. Nothing else is going to change for a few days...focus on FC...and brushing...

 

[PoolStored]

I only use liquid chlorine so I should go to the store and get trichlor tablets just to test this? These stains are actually underneath the surface of the water and on the walls, so will it still be the same if I hold the tablet under water?

Given the pictures and description, I wouldn't mess with the pucks. I dislike handling them and the vapors. If you do decide to try first, use rubber gloves...very acidic.

Just raise your FC and BRUSH BRUSH BRUSH!

 

[chiquilin94]

Filter (swimming will suspend some of it), Cleaner...eventually in to the filter. A dolphin would help, especially with fine filters.

Thanks!

Any advice on a cleaner that doesn't seem to be working all that well? When I run the pump at 1750, the cleaner doesn't seem to be doing a good enough job. Seems every slow and also stays in the deep end without traveling up and down the pool. A lot of this brown/yellowish stuff (which I think may be dead algae) just chills on the bottom of the pool, especially in the shallow end.

 

[PoolStored]

I'm not really a suction or pressure side cleaner guy. I use a robot (M200). Robot also is somewhat pool dependent

I would do two things:
1) Post up in the correct forum A new post about your cleaner issue asking for advice on how to optimize flow/pump usage and coverage. Include a picture of the pool...shape and size matter.
2) If you are interested in a robot, call marina pool and spa, explain your pool type and needs, and they can recommend the best for your needs. They are great people. They are also brick an mortar, so you get full warranty if you buy from them vs. generic internet.

Home - Marina Pool Spa & Patio

RoboticPool CleanersResidential PolarisPressure SideReplacement Parts Maytronics RoboticPool CleanerReplacement Parts Polaris RoboticPool CleanerReplacement Parts Treasure Garden Patio Furniture Covers Pool and SpaChemicals Commercial Pool Products Above GroundSwimming Pools Hot Tubs Ledge...

marinapoolspaandpatio.com

 

[proavia]

What cleaner are you using?
If a suction side cleaner, you need a much higher rpm than 1750 to get enough water flowing thru the cleaner to provide enough suction to pick debris up and get it to climb into the shallower end of the pool. Some cleaners also recommend a specific min/max wheel speed/revolution for optimal cleaning.

With your EasyTouch system, you can set it to run at a higher rpm for a few hours to allow the cleaner to clean sufficiently, then go to a lower speed for skimming and SWG production.

If you have algae - dead or alive - you need to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If you fail the OCLT (be sure SWG is off for test), a SLAM Process is needed.

Add you test kit(s) to your signature - as well as model numbers for ALL your equipment.