New pool owner... lets get it started owwww! :)

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SLAM=24
FC= 22.5
CC= 1
CYA= 50

Backwashed and had to add fill water. I checked CYA again just incase,

after brushing and backwash... had to develop a blockade to keep my beast from drinking the pool water. Before I had to monitor her, and she is stubborn as **** which turns into a wild chase scene in my backyard.

herudy3a.jpg


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1 year old Great Pyrenees
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golfinglenn said:
Looks like you are getting close. You are not having to add too much CL each time. Killing it off is first step, filtering out dead algae carcass is the other lol. Second part is just time and patience.

Keep up the good fight, you will be victorious soon.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the words of encouragement Glenn!

Should I adjust my SLAM level due to the change in CYA levels? Or just keep it moving how I am progressing as stated I did have to add Fill water due to backwashing. This would decrease the amount of chlorine I am currently inputting.

(Update: just added 76 Oz, wife and I going out to a movie).
 
If your cya went down as it should with a water change, then that would mean a lower slam level which would save some bleach $$$. Don't want to get it too low lest you just sacrifice Cl to the sun gods, but the amount you are changing with backflush/rinse shouldn't change it too much. Water is looking better and better.

Edit: I reread the thread and when your cya was 60 slam level was 24. Dropping your cya to 50 lowers your Slam target to 20. This is actually a significant change. Playing with numbers, say your fc level was 15, to raise to 24 (cya 60) would take 108 oz. of 7.85%. To raise that to 20 would only take 60oz. of 7.85%. Almost half. This really goes to show that if water is not an issue, lowering cya to a good level saves a lot of $ in bleach when clearing a swamp. Plus if people empty a good percentage of water with a vacuum to waste from the bottom, slam would take less time :). In theory :). Water was not an issue for me here in Oregon so I opted to drain 100% and refill rather than convert 6600 gallons of baquacil water to BBB.

Glenn
 
@2340
New SLAM= 20 (due to CYA level now at 50)
FC=24.5
CC= 1

How long does it usually take for the cloudiness to go away, Ive got DE will that speed up the process... What about FLOC? I am aware of all three requirements that must be met before successfully claiming to have beaten algae.
 
I have never used DE or Flock, or whatever the Flock that is lol. Once all the algae is dead and if your sand filter is the proper size it shouldn't take too long and your CL use goes way down. Will be curious if our theory speeds things up.

Baquacil is a non-chlorine system of sanitizing your pool. It is a pool store favorite because it is expensive!!!! Try $74 per gallon for sanitizer and every time you have your water tested guess what, it needs another gallon of sanitizer. Then there is algicide at $20 a pint. Then after about 4 seasons you get a pink slime on stuff that you have to throw a bunch more chemicals at, which don't work. Can you tell I am kinda bitter lol. But then I was fortunate enough to find this site and all I complain about is that the water is too sparkly and hard to vacuum stuff off the bottom cause of all the bright light shining in my eyes from the pool water. You will soon know what I mean lol. Now my pool expense is about $5 a week in bleach if the swim load is high.......life is good!!!



Glenn
 
Maybe overnight if you want, , but I think it will be a waste during sunlight as you lose a percentage...so you would have more FC loss at a high mustard level, as compared to a lower slam level.

I mean, normal slam levels do work as very well demonstrated in many threads, but I believe higher FC levels would have faster kill rates so it could speed it up but I'm just making an educated guess.
 

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Also, I haven't done a search on here, but not sure if pool calculator accounts for yield in the bleach. What I mean is, I have 8.25 bleach, but if you look at the label under ingredients it states that 7.85 of that 8.25 is available as chlorine. So for my calculations in Pool Math, I use 7.85 as the strength. In your case, that raises the amount you need to add to the pool to 36oz if you want to go from 17-20.

I am actually curious what the experts say about this, as I am no expert lol. But I do like to err on the safe side, so I go with the lower percent, which increases my bleach usage by a tad bit.

Glenn

Edit: In case anyone reads this in the future, I asked the question in chemistry and for pool math use the % listed on the bottle, ie: 8.25% and don't worry about the yield. Sorry for the confusion lol..
 
I remember a lot of people referencing the sodium hypochlorite % rate... in my case it is 8.25% (which also states on the bottle, 7.86% available chlorine). All the experts have been denoting to enter the sodium hypochlorite figure into the calculator, at least from what I have see in other threads.

SLAM= 20
FC= 21
CC= < .5
 

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