Need to drain - how much?

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SamsIam

SamsIam

Bronze Supporter
May 28, 2016
383
Arlington, TX
I must say I am a bit embarrassed but some times you gotta rip off the bandaid. Been around a while but have always relied on a "pool guy" to handle water maintenance. We got sideways a while back and I just let him go. Tried to find someone else but the ones that showed up seems suspect so I decided to do it myself. Of course, best laid plans.. Here I am now battling other issues - pump and sweep and kind of let pool go just feeding it tabs. My pump issues brought to light my water problems a week or so ago when I added more tabs to a perfectly clear pool only to wake up the next morning to a green pool. That along with some calcification (super hard water here), I figured I better get going so I ordered a TF-PRO kit and was pleasantly surprised its not as big of a whip as I expected. So here I am hat in hand and it looks like my pool is in such a state it needs to be drained. Not an optimal time to do it, but nonetheless if I have to I will. Just not sure how much
1st test results are as follows
FC - 3.0
pH - 6.8 ;(
TA - 60
CH - 625
CYA - 100

After talking to a friend and reading some I realized TABs are not the way to go at least over the long run right?

Appreciate the advice and help I have gotten from this site.
 
SamsIam said:
After talking to a friend and reading some I realized TABs are not the way to go at least over the long run right?
Click to expand...
That is correct. Tablets are stabilized and that stabilizer increases the CYA. Easy CYA math - exchange 50% of your water to lower the CYA by half. If you didn't do the diluted CYA test, your CYA may actually be a bit higher, but you get the point. You need the CYA closer to about 70.

Tabs are also acidic and can pull the pH down. If your pH truly is below 7.0 as you say, get the tabs out ASAP. Add 20 ppm of baking soda to increase the TA which should also help to increase the pH faster. If you have a bubbler or spillover in the pool, let those run to make aeration which also raises the pH. You need the pH back to 7.2 at a minimum. That is very important to protect your heater. Please do that right away.

Let us know if you have any questions.
 
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About the algae situation, after you lower the CYA and get the pH to about 7.2, you can expect the need to perform a SLAM Process to remove the algae once and for all. Follow that page carefully and you should do fine. Refer to the FC/CYA Levels to determine what your elevated SLAM FC level should be. Maintain that SLAM FC level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.

Once you complete the SLAM Process, then you'll balance the FC to the CYA on a daily basis as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to prevent algae from returning. Liquid chlorine (not tabs) will be your pool's new diet each day. In the future, you may consider a salt water generator (SWG) which creates chlorine for you as opposed to adding liquid manually each day.
 
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Texas Splash said:
That is correct. Tablets are stabilized and that stabilizer increases the CYA. Easy CYA math - exchange 50% of your water to lower the CYA by half. If you didn't do the diluted CYA test, your CYA may actually be a bit higher, but you get the point. You need the CYA closer to about 70.

Tabs are also acidic and can pull the pH down. If your pH truly is below 7.0 as you say, get the tabs out ASAP. Add 20 ppm of baking soda to increase the TA which should also help to increase the pH faster. If you have a bubbler or spillover in the pool, let those run to make aeration which also raises the pH. You need the pH back to 7.2 at a minimum. That is very important to protect your heater. Please do that right away.

Let us know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...
one thing i failed to mention is this week i added 6lbs of soda wash to get ph up. i did not have my tf testkit at the time and was working off leslies 7in1 strips. also on your SWG comment, i was actually considering this back a few months ago but got busy with work as we prepared to return to our office space. i do think this is the way i want to go.
 
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Texas Splash said:
That is correct. Tablets are stabilized and that stabilizer increases the CYA. Easy CYA math - exchange 50% of your water to lower the CYA by half. If you didn't do the diluted CYA test, your CYA may actually be a bit higher, but you get the point. You need the CYA closer to about 70.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...
how do you do a diluted CYA test?
 
Diluted CYA Test

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
  5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.
 
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You mentioned a swcg being an option in your future. With all your pentair equipment & your texas climate I would suggest a pentair ic60.
 
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SamsIam said:
gah... yea. so if i did go swg, one thing i am unsure on - do i need the power unit for the ic60 or is my intellicenter sufficient?
Click to expand...
Yes, I believe you still need the power center. You would then connect the two with the com cable so the intellicenter can control your ic60.
Edit- unless you have a transformer in your intellicenter/easytouch.

Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
@Jimrahbe or @ajw22 can confirm / elaborate on this.
 
Sam,

Did you buy the IntelliCenter than came with an IntelliChlor SWCG???

If so, you just connect the SWCG to the bottom of the IntelliCenter.

If not, you will need the old Power Center as that is what makes the DC voltage that the cell needs to operate.

You ALWAYS get the power for the SWCG's transformer from the Load side of the Pump/Filter relay.. Does not matter if you have an internal power center or an external power center..

To control the cell from the automation, the cell's power center (internal or external) needs to be connected to the com port in the automation.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
Sam,

Did you buy the IntelliCenter than came with an IntelliChlor SWCG???

If so, you just connect the SWCG to the bottom of the IntelliCenter.

If not, you will need the old Power Center as that is what makes the DC voltage that the cell needs to operate.

You ALWAYS get the power for the SWCG's transformer from the Load side of the Pump/Filter relay.. Does not matter if you have an internal power center or an external power center..

To control the cell from the automation, the cell's power center (internal or external) needs to be connected to the com port in the automation.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Hey Jim, no SWG

Pentair 520540 EasyTouch 8 Pool/Spa Control System, Base System - No ICP, 2 Actuators,Almond​

it has a transformer but not sure if that was the question he had on it.
 
Sam,

An EasyTouch normally has one small system transformer.. When it comes with a salt cell it will also have a much larger SWCG transformer.

Like this..


Blank Panel.jpg

Blank Panel.jpg




This means you will need to connect your old Power Center to the EasyTouch.

The AC voltage going to the Power Center must come from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay.

The com port inside the Power Center is connected to the J20 com port in the main EasyTouch circuit card. You can use any 4-wire cable with about 22 gauge wires. Like door bell cable.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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