Agent 99, thank you for your help. I'm assuming since you say put the probe of the multimeter on the wire, you mean when the wire is connected to the terminal on the capacitor? Just wanted to ensue I understand correctly.
Motor
- Thread starter Pamela01
- Start date
Yes. One wire from the meter goes to one wire of the capacitor. Each have two wires. 
Agent 99, performed the test with the multimeter as you suggested. Reading was all over the chart from .9 - 153.1. Is this an indication that the capacitor is good.
Agent 99, thank you for the link that you sent me. I used method 3. I'm still confused about it because my test did not turn out as described in the instructions for method 3.
The instructions stated the digital meter will show some numbers for a second, and then immediately it will return to OL. Multiple times my test read .32k ohms but never did return to OL.
I was able to get the capacitor off by hammering, and turning the band that went across it. I never could get the screw loose. Since I now have it off I suppose I will go buy a new one tomorrow, unless I hear from you regarding this one.
The instructions stated the digital meter will show some numbers for a second, and then immediately it will return to OL. Multiple times my test read .32k ohms but never did return to OL.
I was able to get the capacitor off by hammering, and turning the band that went across it. I never could get the screw loose. Since I now have it off I suppose I will go buy a new one tomorrow, unless I hear from you regarding this one.
What range for the Ohms did you set the meter? I does seem you had it in the 1k range judging by your reading of 320 Ohms (0.32 kOhms).
So you hook up the cap, it shows 'some numbers' (what were they?) and then very quickly should go to a new number...possibly OL.
What is happening is that the meter is charging up the cap and while charging it up, it will show some numbers...likely small numbers like 10-20-40 ohms or something because current is flowing and the cap is charging and so that looks like a short in resistance (0 Ohms, technically). When the cap is done charging, it should be an open circuit or open line (OL). No current flows so looks like a very large resistance (infinite).
If it is sitting on 320 Ohms (0.32 kOhms) after all that, then I think the cap is bad. If all you ever can see is something like 0.32 kOhms, then I think a new cap is in your future.
So you hook up the cap, it shows 'some numbers' (what were they?) and then very quickly should go to a new number...possibly OL.
What is happening is that the meter is charging up the cap and while charging it up, it will show some numbers...likely small numbers like 10-20-40 ohms or something because current is flowing and the cap is charging and so that looks like a short in resistance (0 Ohms, technically). When the cap is done charging, it should be an open circuit or open line (OL). No current flows so looks like a very large resistance (infinite).
If it is sitting on 320 Ohms (0.32 kOhms) after all that, then I think the cap is bad. If all you ever can see is something like 0.32 kOhms, then I think a new cap is in your future.
My meter does not have a 1k setting. It's 200, 2000, and 20K. I had it on the 20K setting when I continued to get the .33k reading.
It almost immediately goes to the .33k reading, it hits on 1 or two numbers prior to .33, but getting to .33 is almost immediate.
No matter how long I hold the probes to the cap it stays at .33k and never changes to OL.
It almost immediately goes to the .33k reading, it hits on 1 or two numbers prior to .33, but getting to .33 is almost immediate.
No matter how long I hold the probes to the cap it stays at .33k and never changes to OL.
Try the 2000 setting but I expect a similar result. Also, try the 200 setting.
I assume your meter reads 0 when you touch the two probes together, right?
And with the probe tips touch nothing, you should have OL, right? Just checking your meter to make sure it is ok.
Yes, testing a cap this way...things happen VERY quickly. It charges up quite fast as you're seeing.
Also, make sure you discharge the cap before testing each time. Just short the two cap wires together for a second or two.
I assume your meter reads 0 when you touch the two probes together, right?
And with the probe tips touch nothing, you should have OL, right? Just checking your meter to make sure it is ok.
Yes, testing a cap this way...things happen VERY quickly. It charges up quite fast as you're seeing.
Also, make sure you discharge the cap before testing each time. Just short the two cap wires together for a second or two.
When probe tips touch each other at 200 the reading is 00.2, at 2000 the reading is 000 and at 20k the reading is 0.00.
At 2000 the cap reading is 326, and 200 can't be read, just get a random 1.
When the probes touch nothing the reading is a random 1.
At 2000 the cap reading is 326, and 200 can't be read, just get a random 1.
When the probes touch nothing the reading is a random 1.
Okay, so the shorting of probe tips sounds fine...basically zero.
At the 2000 ohm scale, 326 matches what you've found with the 20k scale. Cool.
At 200, I would expect the OL because 326 is too high for that scale. Perhaps the 'random 1' (not quite sure what you mean by that) is the out of range indicator for your meter.
What kind of meter do you have? I might need to look it up. Have you ever seen the OL displayed on the meter screen?
Maybe post a pic of your meter while taking a reading or something.
It STILL sounds like a new cap might be needed.
At the 2000 ohm scale, 326 matches what you've found with the 20k scale. Cool.
At 200, I would expect the OL because 326 is too high for that scale. Perhaps the 'random 1' (not quite sure what you mean by that) is the out of range indicator for your meter.
What kind of meter do you have? I might need to look it up. Have you ever seen the OL displayed on the meter screen?
Maybe post a pic of your meter while taking a reading or something.
It STILL sounds like a new cap might be needed.
As before I am unable to post a picture. I receive an error message stating I have exceeded my quota.
The meter is a Greenlee that I purchased from Lowe's several years ago for $12.00.
You are right about the random 1, I do believe it indicates it's out of range. I have never seen OL on the meter.
The meter is a Greenlee that I purchased from Lowe's several years ago for $12.00.
You are right about the random 1, I do believe it indicates it's out of range. I have never seen OL on the meter.
Got the new capacitor, insalled it, and put everything back together. Turned the motor on, it humed for a second, then the capacitor started spewing out this oily substance. I turned motor off, and tried it again but the same thing occurred.
I should have asked you to test the new cap the way you tested the old cap before hooking it up. I'm hoping you would get different results.
Where did you get the cap? A motor shop maybe or ?? Wherever you got it, they probably have a capacitance meter and could test the old and new cap pretty quick and tell you for sure if they are okay. Anyway, measure both caps again with your ohmmeter set to 2000 and let's see what you get.
So you can spin the motor shaft so bearing are fine and it isn't seized or hung up or stuck. I'm wondering if there is a switch somewhere on the motor or in the start circuitry or something is still amiss from what you broke earlier related to the start circuitry. It sounds like it WANTS to turn but it won't and that is usually something wrong in the start circuitry and the start cap is a part of it but not the whole thing. I'm sorry but I'm running out of ideas to help you further.
Where did you get the cap? A motor shop maybe or ?? Wherever you got it, they probably have a capacitance meter and could test the old and new cap pretty quick and tell you for sure if they are okay. Anyway, measure both caps again with your ohmmeter set to 2000 and let's see what you get.
So you can spin the motor shaft so bearing are fine and it isn't seized or hung up or stuck. I'm wondering if there is a switch somewhere on the motor or in the start circuitry or something is still amiss from what you broke earlier related to the start circuitry. It sounds like it WANTS to turn but it won't and that is usually something wrong in the start circuitry and the start cap is a part of it but not the whole thing. I'm sorry but I'm running out of ideas to help you further.
If the capacitor leaked, it's bad and should not be used.
It might be time for a new motor.
It might be time for a new motor.
I suppose it is a mute point now. Now when I turn the motor on there's no sound at all, not even a humming sound.
Just for curiosity, today I put the old capacitor back on, and guess what. . . . the motor started to hum again. . . .which indicates to me it could work if I could determine exactly what the problem is.
As stated previously, the new capacitor when turned on would start to spew out an oily substance, then quit working all together. Today the old capacitor tried to turn the shaft but could not get going, then tripped the breaker. Is there any similarities between these two capacitors? Could I have them wired wrong?
As said previously I broke the connector off the red wire and replaced it with one from Home Depot. Could my problem be this? Could the problem be with the part with the copper strips?
As stated previously, the new capacitor when turned on would start to spew out an oily substance, then quit working all together. Today the old capacitor tried to turn the shaft but could not get going, then tripped the breaker. Is there any similarities between these two capacitors? Could I have them wired wrong?
As said previously I broke the connector off the red wire and replaced it with one from Home Depot. Could my problem be this? Could the problem be with the part with the copper strips?
Assuming you hooked up the new cap just like the old, I doubt you wired them wrong. There is no polarity to worry about for the start cap in a motor. Just for grins, I'd still measure the caps...I'm curious about the differences you might see.
Something is amiss in the 'starter' portion of your motor. It could be the switch and definitely related to what you broke.
Something is amiss in the 'starter' portion of your motor. It could be the switch and definitely related to what you broke.
Agent 99, do you mean take the caps to where I purchased the new one and have them professionally measured?
Is the switch the part with the copper strips?
Is the switch the part with the copper strips?
I'd measure them with the method you recently learned AND have a shop with a proper meter (a capacitance meter) measure them. Perhaps it'll be an education and useful.
I don't know if the switch part has copper strips but they certainly can. I sure wish you could post pics. Pictures are worth a thousand words, eh?!
I don't know if the switch part has copper strips but they certainly can. I sure wish you could post pics. Pictures are worth a thousand words, eh?!